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If I can frame the question better tell me. Anyway, can someone tell me which components listed here, in order, is most important to an AR15's accuracy:
Upper
Lower
BCG
I was just target practicing and used the cheapest I could find, steel case Tulamo and Wolf 55gr.
Thank you for your advice. Yeah i have a bunch of Black Hills OTM and FGMM SMK that I was saving for my Tikka T3 Tactical. Maybe I can use some of it to baseline my AR. Again, thank you all who helped. Great place to seek knowledge...Get yourself a box or 2 (when its actually available) of some quality 75-77gr match grade ammo like Federal, Norma or Hornady and get a proper baseline of the rifle's capability. The steel cased stuff you are shooting isn't going to group better than 2-3" @ 100yd out of any rifle, and possibly even worse than that so you aren't currently getting any good idea of its potential.
If you're still not happy with those groups then I would recommend barrel upgrade and free-float done at the same time. The handguard, delta-ring assembly and FSB all have to come off to change the barrel so you might as well do the handguard too.
When you're reassembling (if doing the work yourself) it would be a really good idea to have some ft-lb and in-lb torque wrenches available for the barrel nut, low-pro gas block and handguard screws. Over/under-torquing these can have negative effects on accuracy as well.
No, I don't know the twist rate. I bought this rifle when I first starting out so I didn't know whats what. I still don't. LOL...Is there a way to tell the twist rate? I know some manufacturers engraved it on the barrel and some don't.Good grief, those are some of the best groups I’ve seen with that kind of ammo. Give your barrel and bolt carrier a good cleaning and get some quality ammo; match grade stuff from Federal, Hornady, or Black Hills. Then you will see what it will really do.
Do you know the twist rate of the barrel? If it’s a 1 in 7 then go for 75 or 77 grain match ammo. If it’s a 1 in 9 then don’t go over 69 grains; try something between 55 to 69.
BTW, what is an FSB in your post?
No, I don't know the twist rate. I bought this rifle when I first starting out so I didn't know whats what. I still don't. LOL...Is there a way to tell the twist rate? I know some manufacturers engraved it on the barrel and some don't.
Damn, the support on here has been phenomenal. I was kind of hesitant to ask the question, seeing some of the craps thrown around on other threads.
Cheers,
Damn, the support on here has been phenomenal. I was kind of hesitant to ask the question, seeing some of the craps thrown around on other threads. I am glad i did. Anyway, hope some you guys don't mind if from time to time I may PM you for some more knowledge.
Cheers,
parts are nice but more likely than not almost any of them would do you well enough you the shooter would be the weakest link , not saying the gun could not have a problem anyone can make a p.o.s from time to time . But your skills with that gun seem like they would matter more than a few parts . I could be totally wrong but some of the best shooters in the world never had namebrand fancy parts just bone stock what ever brand they could afford .
My 16" long, 1:7" twist Lightweight AR barrel shoots IMI 77gr very nicely, but I suspect that a 1:8" twist wouldn't work for that bullet weight at that short length.
It will shoot nicely in my 24" long, 1:8" twist barrels.
The crossover point is somewhere between 16" and 24" in length, but since those are the only barrel lengths I have; I can't tell you where that crossover occurs.
Greg
My 16" long, 1:7" twist Lightweight AR barrel shoots IMI 77gr very nicely, but I suspect that a 1:8" twist wouldn't work for that bullet weight at that short length.
It will shoot nicely in my 24" long, 1:8" twist barrels.
The crossover point is somewhere between 16" and 24" in length, but since those are the only barrel lengths I have; I can't tell you where that crossover occurs.
Greg
I can't specifically comment on the IMI 77gr but I shoot 77gr FGMM, Norma Match and Hornady Match out of my 1:8 twist 18" with great results. Barrel is a WOA 18" SPR profile with .223 Wylde chamber.
Accuracy Node Detection Technique
I am in the process of discovering the principles of an accurate AR rifle, by building one. So far I have not achieved anything better than 1.5MOA from either a STAG15 24" VARMINT upper, or from rebarreling that upper with a Proof Research REECE profile. Both were free float. I've trued the upper with the Wheeler kit, and Locktite 620'd the STAG barrel to no gain. I've tried dozens of MILSURP loads, as well as Black Hills Match and Hornady Match and plenty of my own handloads (all with LC81 brass. CFE223 powder, and CCI SR primers.) I've tried all the usual accuracy loading techniques for bolt guns (neck turning, seating depth, etc. and continue to get ES: 150 or so, but accuracy never below 1.0 MOA. Latest upgrade is a Trigger Tech single stage which is set to feel exactly like my 1911 match pistol. Again no gain, but boy howdy does it feel nice!
I've run Audette and Shatterly tests - results have not show correlation to 100 yard accuracy.
My ultimate goal is to use the rifle for ground squirrels (1"x0.5" vital zone) to … well my Savage 10FPC in 204 (0.3MOA) gets me to 500 yds on them, so in an ideal world the AR would achieve the same effective range.
A secondary purpose of this build is to inform an article I will write into my notebook on the subject. You can see I'm quite deep into the physics of interior ballistics, so any insight is very welcome.
Could I ask you to expand on your "Accuracy Node Detection Technique" please?
Thanks!
My notebook: http://SnellsNotebook.us