Rifle Scopes NF 7-35x56 Parallax

[ram]

I went with the NF 7-35x56 Mil-C, and I’m kind of disappointed. I thought the glass in the 7-35x56 was supposed to be better than the other ATACRs, but it is not better than my 4-16x42; brighter but the resolution is not better.

The parallax marks are no where near the actual numbers when beyond 50 meters, where as my 4-16 is within about 10%. Fortunately, the best focus is also the point where the image is parallax free.

I know the parallax is not a range finder, but it is really off by a significant amount. For example, at 450 yards, the parallax free point is at 150 and at one mile the, the image goes out of focus at 600.

Is this normal or is it likely a problem?

 

[diverdon]

I can not give you a final answer. I just wonder if you diopter is correctly adjusted .

https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...rifle-scope-a-simple-psa-on-diopters.6252841/

If the diopter is not adjusted to your eye that might make the parallax work in unexpected ways.

 

[ram]

I think the diopter adjustment is good as the reticle is in focus.

 

[918v]

No, no, no. This is a NF ATACR. Conventional wisdom does not apply. The scope is sensitive to weather, diopter adjustment, the local witch casting a spell, etc.

 

[Steel+Killer]

I went with the NF 7-35x56 Mil-C, and I’m kind of disappointed. I thought the glass in the 7-35x56 was supposed to be better than the other ATACRs, but it is not better than my 4-16x42; brighter but the resolution is not better.

The parallax marks are no where near the actual numbers when beyond 50 meters, where as my 4-16 is within about 10%. Fortunately, the best focus is also the point where the image is parallax free.

I know the parallax is not a range finder, but it is really off by a significant amount. For example, at 450 yards, the parallax free point is at 150 and at one mile the, the image goes out of focus at 600.

Is this normal or is it likely a problem?

I just sold my NF ATACR 5-25 because of the very reasons you complain about yours. I found it very difficult to set parallax and just like you the numbers were not even close also if you reset your diopter it can throw off your zero and for me I never liked that the whole eye piece moves when adjusting magnification. I kept telling myself you can learn to like it, I ended up buying a S&B PMII and have no regrets.

 

[Forrest84]

Funny y’all mention the peralex. My buddy couldn’t get past the same problem with his for some reason

 

[PTPATAW]

Weird. My 7-35x has an image clarity that surpasses two PMii, k624i, and two Rzr genii I’ve used or owned. The parallax isn’t exactly the number on the dial but very rarely do I look at the dial in PRS shoots. That’s also a reason some manufacturers don’t include marked parallax. Take some white tape and trim it to fit around the dial and make your own range markings. That’s far superior in a hasty situation anyways.

 

[Steel+Killer]

For me the numbers not coming close to matching wasn’t the deal breaker (although on my other scopes they do come pretty close) I could never get parallax set and have a focused image at the same time and yes I tried every method known. I don’t have that problem on my other scopes from a PST GEN 1&2, RAZOR GEN2, S&BPMII, NIKON FX 1000. I wanted very bad for the NF ATACR to work for me because I loved the MIL-C reticle. I finally said F-IT settling parallax shouldn’t be this hard on a 3K rifle scope. Sold it and took a $400 dollar hit. To the OP I am not trying to piss on your parade just sharing my experience and I hope you get it worked out.

 

[Craniotome]

I’m with nomad on this. I have the 7-35 on my 338 lapua. I’ve directly conpared it to my kahles,s&b and Steiner mx5 and the clarity and brightness were superior even to the s&b pmII. I may have just gotten a good sample but I remain very impressed and have not had issues with parallax.

 

[Nik H]

I went with the NF 7-35x56 Mil-C, and I’m kind of disappointed. I thought the glass in the 7-35x56 was supposed to be better than the other ATACRs, but it is not better than my 4-16x42; brighter but the resolution is not better.

The parallax marks are no where near the actual numbers when beyond 50 meters, where as my 4-16 is within about 10%. Fortunately, the best focus is also the point where the image is parallax free.

I know the parallax is not a range finder, but it is really off by a significant amount. For example, at 450 yards, the parallax free point is at 150 and at one mile the, the image goes out of focus at 600.

Is this normal or is it likely a problem?

I have had this problem with this exact scope. All I can tell you is that the diopter adjustment is critical to solving it. I think one of the principle issues is that the diopter adjustment is quite different than other scopes. There is a LOT of adjustment range versus my S&B and Khales. Because of this large range of adjustment, it may appear that there is no change to the reticle sharpness as you move through a large range of rotation. What I did was to move the diopter ring until the reticle appeared to be focused. It is important to observe the focus at the outer edgers of the reticle and only for periods of a second or two as your eye will adjust.

I then checked the parallax at multiple distances and magnifications. If parallax was still present, I went back to max magnification and max parallax distance and moved the diopter 1/4 turn again. I swear that with my vision, the reticle focus remained good for almost 3 full turns of the diopter. However, using this method, I finally found a diopter setting that put the reticle in focus and provided zero parallax and sharp target focus. It took forever compared to other scopes.

When you're done, it will be well worth it as it is an amazing scope and a lot better than my 4-16x42 in terms of image quality. I like it better than any other tier 1 scope I own. My Bender got moved for this one.

Forget about the numbers lining up. That is common on many scopes. My Khales is the worst of the bunch. As long as parallax is removed and the scope tracks, no problem for me. The venerable TT 5-25 does not even use numbers on the parallax knob for that reason.

 

[Ravenyzf-r6]

For me the numbers not coming close to matching wasn’t the deal breaker (although on my other scopes they do come pretty close) I could never get parallax set and have a focused image at the same time and yes I tried every method known. I don’t have that problem on my other scopes from a PST GEN 1&2, RAZOR GEN2, S&BPMII, NIKON FX 1000. I wanted very bad for the NF ATACR to work for me because I loved the MIL-C reticle. I finally said F-IT settling parallax shouldn’t be this hard on a 3K rifle scope. Sold it and took a $400 dollar hit. To the OP I am not trying to piss on your parade just sharing my experience and I hope you get it worked out.

For $400 I think I would give NF a chance to fix the problem. Could always sell it after it was returned and still not up your standards.

 

[Steel+Killer]

For $400 I think I would give NF a chance to fix the problem. Could always sell it after it was returned and still not up your standards.

I hear what you are saying, but for me it was worth the $400 to cut my loses I wasn't wasting anymore ammo or time trying to get it figured out. NF works great for some people for me not so much. I have already replaced it with a S&B PMII and couldn't be happier. From what I have read on this and other forums their are a lot of other people that experience the same problems. Like I said before I never much really cared for the whole eyepiece moving when changing magnification anyways the parallax issues was just icing on the cake to say goodbye to it.....lol

 

[ram]

To be clear, I’m not having difficulty achieving a parallax free image, and the best focus and parallax is at the same point. In addition, the parallax free is not finicky to achieve.

My concern is that something is not right for the following reasons.

1. Clarity is not better than my 4-16x42 and everything I’ve read has indicated that it was a step above the ATACR 4-16 and 5-25.
2. Best focus at a mile is at 600 meters on the knob and going beyond 600 blurs the image.
3. Above 50 meters the parallax marks are dramatically off the actual distance.

 

[6point5CM]

Mine does this and it drives me crazy. I've spoken to NF about it. When I get a pause in the Match season, I'm sending it in for them to look at (hopefully just spin the ring and tighten down at a location I pre-identify). My PMII is spot on, as were my previous 5-25 ATACRs, and my PMII is visually better with a more forgiving eyebox, but I like the turrets and MIL-C on my 7-35 better. The reason I'm picky about this is time management. I don't adjust parallax in the middle of a stage, I set it before I shoot that stage based off where the most points are awarded, or the average between the more technical distances/shots to achieve the most points and save the most time. While I get some are off 100 yards, etc... mine is off significantly more. At 1125 yards and parallax free, my yardage is at ~250 on the dial indicator, which is outside acceptable limits for me. In the meantime, I'll create my own taped marking. While I get in the grand scheme of things, it's minor, if used primarily as a competition scope where many competitors dial in parallax before they approach the stage, it's critical. Setting the diopter is the same as any non-Euro model of scope, and I have had multiple excellent shooters set it to them to verify it's not anything with how we are setting up the diopter focus. It wouldn't be enough to make me sell the scope, but I'll be sending it back for them to reset so it lines up more closely, and they said they were happy to take a look for me, and get it out in a quick manner.

 

[hk dave]

I’d guess the diopter is off. I spent a considerable time messing with mine. Optically it is amazing.

 

[Nik H]

Mine does this and it drives me crazy. I've spoken to NF about it. When I get a pause in the Match season, I'm sending it in for them to look at (hopefully just spin the ring and tighten down at a location I pre-identify). My PMII is spot on, as were my previous 5-25 ATACRs, and my PMII is visually better with a more forgiving eyebox, but I like the turrets and MIL-C on my 7-35 better. The reason I'm picky about this is time management. I don't adjust parallax in the middle of a stage, I set it before I shoot that stage based off where the most points are awarded, or the average between the more technical distances/shots to achieve the most points and save the most time. While I get some are off 100 yards, etc... mine is off significantly more. At 1125 yards and parallax free, my yardage is at ~250 on the dial indicator, which is outside acceptable limits for me. In the meantime, I'll create my own taped marking. While I get in the grand scheme of things, it's minor, if used primarily as a competition scope where many competitors dial in parallax before they approach the stage, it's critical. Setting the diopter is the same as any non-Euro model of scope, and I have had multiple excellent shooters set it to them to verify it's not anything with how we are setting up the diopter focus. It wouldn't be enough to make me sell the scope, but I'll be sending it back for them to reset so it lines up more closely, and they said they were happy to take a look for me, and get it out in a quick manner.

They told me the same which is really great. I am debating sending my Khales back since it is off FAR worse than the NF but it is 8-10 weeks to turn around. It works great at all ranges out to 1,000 (longest range anywhere near me) so why bother.

I haven't sent the NF back because now it works beautifully. I guess the numbers don't mean much to me. It tracks phenomenally well. Image is awesome. It doesn't tunnel like my Bender and offers more magnification. Reticle is awesome. I make believe the numbers aren't there. I may elect to do this at some point just to make sure everything is in order.

Let us know how you make out after you send it back. I would be really interested.

 

[ram]

I’d guess the diopter is off. I spent a considerable time messing with mine. Optically it is amazing.

If the diopter were off, wouldn’t that make the best focus and parallax be at different points on the parallax adjustment?

Is this a common issue on the 7-35?

 

[Nik H]

If the diopter were off, wouldn’t that make the best focus and parallax be at different points on the parallax adjustment?

Is this a common issue on the 7-35?

As I said above, it is a consequence of the implementation of the diopter versus European scopes. NF has a huge diopter range while the European scopes focus diopter in less than a full turn. It is definitely harder to do but it can be done. You just need patience.

 

[ram]

As I said above, it is a consequence of the implementation of the diopter versus European scopes. NF has a huge diopter range while the European scopes focus diopter in less than a full turn. It is definitely harder to do but it can be done. You just need patience.

I have it adjusted to the best reticle focus and I simultaneously have the best image and parallax free point at the same parallax setting. I’ve tried several times now and the results are the same. I also have a ATACR 4-16 that has exactly the same system and don’t have this trouble with it.

 

[6point5CM]

They told me the same which is really great. I am debating sending my Khales back since it is off FAR worse than the NF but it is 8-10 weeks to turn around. It works great at all ranges out to 1,000 (longest range anywhere near me) so why bother.

I haven't sent the NF back because now it works beautifully. I guess the numbers don't mean much to me. It tracks phenomenally well. Image is awesome. It doesn't tunnel like my Bender and offers more magnification. Reticle is awesome. I make believe the numbers aren't there. I may elect to do this at some point just to make sure everything is in order.

Let us know how you make out after you send it back. I would be really interested.

Will do. Like I said, it only really matters due to how I personally employ this scope in a match. It's a style thing that has served me very well, and I prefer to do it this way. If employed in any other scenario without a time limitation, I wouldn't care or even look at the parallax. After the finale in May, it'll be going in and I'll post an update.

Optically it's nice, but I prefer the image of my S&B. It's just cleaner, sharper, and things just stand out more. A washed out lead target still pops in the S&B to me. That is all so subjective though, it's not a big deal. Both are pleasing to look through and wouldn't give up a point due to optical performance. The MIL-C reticle to me is perfect. That center dot is sure nice.

 

[Nik H]

I have it adjusted to the best reticle focus and I simultaneously have the best image and parallax free point at the same parallax setting. I’ve tried several times now and the results are the same. I also have a ATACR 4-16 that has exactly the same system and don’t have this trouble with it.

I dont disagree. I went into it thinking it would be the same as my S&B and Khales. As I said, it was a little frustrating but in the end it was well worth it. Overall, I like it a lot more than my S&B PMII which now sits on my AR10. Although I am thinking of moving it to my Anschutz.

 

[6point5CM]

I’d guess the diopter is off. I spent a considerable time messing with mine. Optically it is amazing.

I have substantial time adjusting this diopter and have employed many others with the same results. I did the same concept as you however, I played with it and parallax at many different ranges trying to find a setup that was in focus and a reticle nice and sharp. While I agree it has a wide focus range that it appears very clear, for me there is only a small window where every aspect of the reticle is clear. The center area looks great for example for 2-3 turns, but the numbers on the vertical are not sharp. For me anyway, there is a pretty small window where everything looks absolutely perfect with the reticle. I keep thinking it's off and must be the cause, but after 4 different shooting days with the sole purpose to reset the diopter, it's in the same spot every time. This has been mirrored with the other shooters who have done the same thing on my scope to see if they got different results. I don't think anything is wrong with the scope, I just think the parallax knob needs to be loosened, moved to a position I mark at a yardage I've confirmed works, and then tightened back down. We'll see what comes of it here in a couple months. Thanks for your info.

 

[hk dave]

In terms of the numbers lining up, mine don’t even come close. I don’t even look at the numbers though. Once I have the diopter set to me, focus generally coincides with parallax free in the environments I shoot in so I just move the parallax knob back and forth like I’m focusing a camera, get it sharp and check for parallax.

It’s pretty fast but I hear you on the “set it to the known distance before” and start sending.

The only scopes I’ve ever owned where the numbers are close are S&Bs.