haha, the T3 is truly an enigma. For those who swear by them, they are the bees knees ... for others they are "too busy" ... or other words that imply dislike. They are not for everyone. It depends on what you are trying to do.
If you would use a DMR rifle like a DMR rifle, the T3 is probably overkill. But that's just my opinion ... and I'm a T3 "bigot"
So, the T3 is good at speeding up unknown distance shots out to a certain distance, which depends on the cartridge, the rifle and the target size among other factors. Using the wind dots (the key differentiating feature of the T3) enables you to skip using a ballistics calculator for wind. You baseline your wind and then listen for the trees or other signals about rising wind and think in MPH and hold in MPH. No conversion to mils. Now at some point aero jump is going to become significant ... and you will want to switch back to your ballistics calculator to pick that up. And that means you won't be using the winddots any more. Some people say this is 600yds ... but again, it depends.
When I'm doing "wind practice" .. I focus on 1st rd hits ... and that means the first shot at the target from that position. I have several berms on my land ... and each berm determines a set of stages ... positions from which I can shoot. In some cases I can hit multiple berms from one position. But, in theory these are UKD shots and they mostly were for a while ... but by now ... I can tell you pretty closely what the distance is to within 20yds worst case. But I still practice like its UKD. But 1 shot per target, per position period, hit or miss. I shoot 8-12 target/positions for each wind practice session. Usually from 425yds out to 1050yds.
Here's thru lens pic of first first rd hit (on third day's attempt) at 1050yds ...
This was with .300WM(24) and A191 factory at 3001 MV ... that was some smooth shooting ammo ... able to get consistent sub .4 IPHY groups at 100yds with it, even with me shooting. On this day, I called the wind a 4 MPH and held for 4 MPH. Kestrel/AB said 8.4 mils up, so I held that and squeezed the trigger ... and a long time later heard a "ping" ...
Here's the .300WM(24) on a different day, same ammo, shooting 8 targets, 425, 504, 604 and 726 ... torso and face. I hit the target 8 times, but the 604 "face" shot was low and right and impacted the torso, which was a miss.
I use the wind dots out beyond the "theoretical" distance I should ... but I'm shooting at target that is 24 inches tall (torso ... which includes the face) usually ... though "face" is the 6x6 square on top.
If you click on the pic and zoom your browser, you should be able to see all the individual hits.
This was NF 7-35x T3 scope, so even though I was shooting on 15x, I would dial up to 30x-35x for "spotting". And the face shoots are pretty close together, except for the miss.
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So I love the T3, for what I use it for, which is long distance wind practice with bolt guns, from 425yds to 1050yds ... For DMR, I use scopes like the NF 2.5-10x MIL-R ... lighter and shorter and lower bottom end ... more FOV.
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As to the ATACR 4-16x T3 ...
I like everything about it EXCEPT ... to remove parallax at 100yds ... I need to set it to about 200yds on the dial ... and that makes it out of focus. I can get sub 0.4 IPHY groups with good ammo, but the image is fuzzy and I wish it wasn't. One person said, I should have it checked, their's isn't like that ... so maybe I will. But in the field there's no issue as I'm not trying to parallax at 100yds in the field.
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I saw you mentioned the mk6 ... I also use it ...
It also an enigma I think it that many people don't like it ... I love it ... and I think I barely like it better than the 4-16x ...
Its shorter and lighter ... and I use NV/Thermal clipons so shorter and lighter is good. Shorter makes it easier to mount the clipon ... lighter makes it easier to carry thru the woods and over the fences and up and down the creek banks around where I am.
The 3x on the bottom gives more FOV, this is good for critter control.
It parallaxes better than the 4-16x.
Adjusting the diopter is its weak spot ... but I sent it in and L&S did "something" to it and now its easier. Its still hard (to turn) but at least I now can do it. I couldn't move it before.
Its hard to get a lens shade for it ... but I was able to get one.
I do like the NF T3 illum better than the L&S T3 illum because the NF has green also. I rarely use the illum but when I do, I use the green because it is dimmer ...
Right now, those are my two T3 scopes on my 7.62x51 bolt guns ... I like them both ... from a resale perspective, the ATACR probably has the edge, but from a "how does it work in the field" ... I'd give the mk6 a tiny edge, due to parallax and FOV ...