Rifle Scopes Nightforce MOAR & NP-R1 Reticles

3bnRanger

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Aug 20, 2007
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I would greatly appreciate comparison photos of the MOAR and NP-R1 reticles (2nd focal plane). I have read reviews describing the MOAR reticle and subtensions are thicker than the NP-R1 but the provided design photos on the website actually show the NP-R1 reticle thicker than the MOAR. If someone can email the MOAR reticle photo, I have access to a NP-R1 reticle.

Thanks
 
I would greatly appreciate comparison photos of the MOAR and NP-R1 reticles (2nd focal plane). I have read reviews describing the MOAR reticle and subtensions are thicker than the NP-R1 but the provided design photos on the website actually show the NP-R1 reticle thicker than the MOAR. If someone can email the MOAR reticle photo, I have access to a NP-R1 reticle.

Thanks

Here is a link to the NF MOAR reticle. You can enlarge it and/or download the PDF. Hope that helps. I use to be an NP R-1 guy until I got a NF with the MOAR reticle.
MOAR? Reticle | Nightforce Optics, Inc.
 
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Have two scopes with MOAR reticles and love them. Shot out to 1200 yards with a 5.5-25x50 and never had an issue with the reticule obscuring the target. Great design and according to NF its their top seller.
 
About six months ago I was trying to decide between the two. Chose the NP-R1 because would be doing mostly paper punching with the rifle and scope. If i recall right the reticle on the MOR subtends about double the NP-R1. For that reason i chose the NP-R1, wanted the finer recticle. The MOR is a nice rectile too, had a hard time deciding, but chose to go fine.
 
Why is the MOAR better? Is it because it's graduated in one MOA instead of 2?

Exactly. It's easier to make precise wind holds with double the resolution. Trying to hold 1 3/4 MOA of wind is pretty simple on the MOAR. It's harder with the 2 MOA hashes. Impossible? No, of course not. For me, whatever thickening of the reticle occurred was more than offset by the precision available for holding wind.
 
I have both, and love the MOAR. It does have thicker subtensions, but I use it for tactical matches for the most part. If you are only going to shoot paper, the NP-R1 is probably a better option. One thing I would mention is that my MOAR is in the ATACR, and the 34mm tube makes the biggest difference.
 
The MOAR was designed by shooters for shooters with several years of feedback from the market. The MOAR was designed to be better in field/tactical conditions. The NP-R1 was originally designed to be a target reticle.

The very thin line thickness of the NP-R1 often disappears in shadows and low light as well as against certain vegetation and backgrounds. We determined the thinnest line thickness that improved visibility in those conditions. That is why the MOAR is thicker. Roughly twice as thick as the NP-R1. We added numbers in order to aid in finding your MOA holds under stress easier. The center crosshair floating inside of what we called the acquisition box was for quick reference of center mass shots on lower magnifications as well as offering a less cluttered aiming reference at higher magnification.

The hash marks are equivalent on the vertical and horizontal to make second focal plane corrections equal at magnifications other than calibrated magnification.

We added reference indicators at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions to aid in drawing the eye to the center as well as providing edge contrast to help focus on the thinner smart portion of the reticle rather than having it float in the FOV.

If you plan on punching paper and want the finest reticle to target resolution possible, the NP-R1 is hard to beat. For any type of field/tactical shooting, the MOAR shines.

I hope the above helps. Much of the same criteria applied to the development of the MIL-R with the exception of breaking the MIL down finer by providing intuitive reference points within the reticle and adding in a more precise individual ranging scale.
 
I'll add that I love the numbers on the MOAR. I have a variety of scopes in both my preferred MOA and a few in mils. I have all the reticle subtension diagrams in my data book since it's hard to keep track of what's what. Having the numbers right on the reticle means I never have to consult the diagram for my NXS. I have a USO with the same feature and value it for the same reason.