NightForce NX8 Elevation Issues… Frustrated!!

[Cloverstring]

Picked up a used NF NX8 MOA 4-32x50 SFP this spring on the exchange for my custom 300rum, my first NF glass. Installed it in 30mm Seekins Precision Rings, zeroed it at 1” high at 200yds, and then confirmed dialed holdovers out to 800yds. If I do my part this is a ½ MOA rifle. I’m loving the new scope and life is good. I have a long awaited western hunt here in just over 2 weeks so went to range this weekend to get some more practice in. Temps were much cooler and I shot a sting of 3 at 300, 400, 500, 600, and 700yds. All grouped great but were a tad high (me being anal). I decided to drop it one click and be done with it, ready to hunt. I got home, took the elevation turret cap off, loosened the 4 stem screws, spun the top wheel above the terret stem counter clockwise a turn to give me room to turn the turret down 1 click, started re-tightening the 4 stem screws and when I got to the last one as I was turning it, I was not holding the turret stem to keep it from turning at the same time and the entire turret spun… I’m not sure how many clicks as it happened too fast but I’d say 3-6 maybe, but honestly I don’t know?? That was a OH S&#T moment for sure!! I take a step back and think no big deal, I turned the turret down clockwise (when I was tightening the screw in the stem) so I’ll just have to come back up a few clicks to re-establish my zero. I re-installed the turret cap and head back to the range, that’s when my real problems start.

I start at 200yds and am about 4” low. I dial up to my zero, then go back to 400yds and come up the corresponding MOA and I’m 11” low. I dial back down to my zero and go back to 200yds to re-confirm and I’m now 2-3” high at 200yds. All grouping well, just off elevation-wise. Now I’m getting upset and frustrated and decided to take a break and think things over. I went back home. I checked action screws, ring bases, ring screws, everything was tight at spec. The gun and scope did not fall or get hit at all. Nothing rattles in the scope. Rounds are all from the same batch I loaded early this summer. Rest is the same. I have about 60 loaded rounds left from this batch and leave for a hunt in just over 2 weeks so I’m feeling some pressure here. I’ve been through something like this before with a Leupold VX6HD scope that lost it’s tracking accuracy due to a broken internal part that Leupold repaired. It held zero like this one does, but as soon as I dial a turret, it never would go back to the same zero.

I next decided to try a vertical MOA dial test to test the elevation dial tracking. I get to the range. Set up to zero at 200yds and fire 2 rounds. I’m 2.8” low (see photo). I want to be 1” high at 200yds so I come up 8 clicks or 2MOA (2.8” + 1” = 3.8”/.50(per click) = 7.6 = 8 clicks rounded = 2 MOA. I fire 2 more rounds and my POI is now at +3.9” high. I stopped at that point and went home, if I’m off with a 2MOA vertical dial test, I’m sure I would be way off with a 20 or 30MOA vertical dial test. I can’t think of anything else other than the elevation tracking is off in the scope?? After dialing 2 MOA at 200yds which should have been 4” my POI moved almost 7”. I don’t have unlimited rounds left to shoot, so before wasting anymore ammo, I went home and planned to ask you guys what your thoughts are?? Has anyone ever experienced failed tracking in a NF scope? I specifically purchased NF for their dependability. Guy who I bought the scope from said he never had any issues with it and it worked great all summer for me. I also plan on calling NF today to see what they say. Any suggestion or ideas? Almost the exact same thing happened to me with that VX6HD just over a year ago and after driving myself nuts for a couple weeks, it ended up being a broken scope. I should of never touched it and never tried to adjust that 1 click down, it's too late now. I don’t have another rifle ready to go I can put it on to test. I do have a couple other VX6HD’s I can swap it out for on this rifle but I lost all confidence in those the last time one of them broke on me. SO FRUSTRATED!!!

 

[Mudflap621]

Are you sure you tightened the clutch system down enough after the initial turret slip? Sounds like the clutch might be slipping when your dialing.

 

[Cloverstring]

I did not check that. So I'm clear, remove the turret cap. Tighten the 4 small stem screws on the top of the clutch correct? Great suggestion. My first NF scope and didn't think of that, just saw in all the zero stop videos I watched before installing it to be careful to not over tighten those 4 small screws. Thank you. If this fixes it, that would make my week!!

 

[Csafisher]

Did you not tighten them back after you adjusted the zero stop? It was tracking before you messed with it and now it’s not. Odds are something happened when you messed with. Most likely it’s just slipping. YouTube is your friend.

I have 2 NX8s and I will say I love them for the money, but their zero stop system kind of sucks. I’m with you, I usually set my zero stop several clicks below my zero to have room.

 

[Cloverstring]

Did you not tighten them back after you adjusted the zero stop? It was tracking before you messed with it and now it’s not. Odds are something happened when you messed with. Most likely it’s just slipping. YouTube is your friend.

I have 2 NX8s and I will say I love them for the money, but their zero stop system kind of sucks. I’m with you, I usually set my zero stop several clicks below my zero to have room.

I did re-tighten the 4 small turret stem screws after spinning the clutch 1 turn count-clockwise to loosen it to allow room to turn the turret down 1 click but maybe not enough. When loosening and tightening the clutch screws, I'm scared I'll turn the actual turret at the same time which created this problem in the first place. LESSON LEARNED WITH NF ZERO STOP SYSTEM make sure you hold the turret stem in place with your other hand when loosening and tightening the clutch screws on top or you'll risk turning the actual turret at the same time throwing off your adjustment.

 

[Mudflap621]

I did not check that. So I'm clear, remove the turret cap. Tighten the 4 small stem screws on the top of the clutch correct? Great suggestion. My first NF scope and didn't think of that, just saw in all the zero stop videos I watched before installing it to be careful to not over tighten those 4 small screws. Thank you. If this fixes it, that would make my week!!

I ended up splurging on the fix it stick kit for NF scopes it has all the bits as well as a limiter just so I didn’t over tighten them. I have a habit of tightening bolts till the spin freely than backing off a quarter turn.

 

[Birddog6424]

Step one in POI troubleshooting is to always replace the optic with a known, reliable scope. That eliminates the rifle as the culprit, and you can focus on getting the optic fixed.

All scopes break, NF included.

And just as a piece of advice to be used or not as you choose, I'm an Idaho hunter. I've hunted big game in Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming all my life. No fancy zero distance needed. Keep it simple, zero at 100 and know your holds to 500. Off the top of my head my holds on my Norma are 200 .5 (mils), 300 .9, 400 1.5, 500 2. Or 3", 9", 21", and 38". Generally if you're going to air one out further than that, you take a little time to get it right.

Good luck getting your issue cleared up, and good luck on your hunt.

 

[parshal]

The torque spec on the zero stop and cap screws is 4 inch pounds. It ain't much at all, not even what I'd call 'snug'. If you're moving the clutch when tightening the screws you're probably using too much. Holding the turret while doing it is a good idea, though.

I have five ATACRs. The zero stop is nice when set but is a couple step process for sure. I've had two where the clutch froze and I had to send them in to get it fixed.

 

[Cloverstring]

I just got off the phone with NF and they directed me to check the 4 clutch screws and 2 turret cap screws to make sure all are tight. I will do that and then do another vertical MOA dial test if I can even dial to zero it. FINGERS CROSSED!!!

The NF rep did say that if any of the screws were loose a common sign is that the turret dial won't click when the cap is turned. In my case, it clicks so I'm not sure???

 

[Cloverstring]

Step one in POI troubleshooting is to always replace the optic with a known, reliable scope. That eliminates the rifle as the culprit, and you can focus on getting the optic fixed.

All scopes break, NF included.

And just as a piece of advice to be used or not as you choose, I'm an Idaho hunter. I've hunted big game in Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming all my life. No fancy zero distance needed. Keep it simple, zero at 100 and know your holds to 500. Off the top of my head my holds on my Norma are 200 .5 (mils), 300 .9, 400 1.5, 500 2. Or 3", 9", 21", and 38". Generally if you're going to air one out further than that, you take a little time to get it right.

Good luck getting your issue cleared up, and good luck on your hunt.

Thanks. Replacing the scope will be a later step if it gets that far, hoping it doesn't.

Appreciate the advice on the holds. I also did that for years with the ballistic holdover reticles, never worried about twisting turrets. But that only got me out to maybe 600 yards. I went to turrets to go further for long range shooting. I never had scope or POI issues back then. Zero it, confirm holdovers, and be done.

 

[Cloverstring]

The torque spec on the zero stop and cap screws is 4 inch pounds. It ain't much at all, not even what I'd call 'snug'. If you're moving the clutch when tightening the screws you're probably using too much. Holding the turret while doing it is a good idea, though.

I have five ATACRs. The zero stop is nice when set but is a couple step process for sure. I've had two where the clutch froze and I had to send them in to get it fixed.

Thanks for the info. I only moved the clutch when tightening the last 1 of 4 screws so I could have been too tight on that one. I just have to remember to hold the turret every time now when loosening and tightening.

What do you mean with "clutch froze" like the actual turret stem (part that clicks when turned) would not turn anymore or the clutch wheel on top of the stem (part the 4 screws go into) stopped turning?

I'm really hoping this is a simple fix and I don't have to take it off and send it in.

 

[parshal]

You'd know if the clutch was frozen. If you remove the four clutch screws it won't turn freely without clicking.

 

[Birddog6424]

Thanks. Replacing the scope will be a later step if it gets that far, hoping it doesn't.

I only meant swapping the scope for testing purposes. Just to make sure the issue is in fact, the scope. But if you're sure that's where the problem is, hopefully you get it figured out.

 

[Cloverstring]

You'd know if the clutch was frozen. If you remove the four clutch screws it won't turn freely without clicking.

Interesting. Nope, luckily I don't have that issue.

 

[Cloverstring]

I only meant swapping the scope for testing purposes. Just to make sure the issue is in fact, the scope. But if you're sure that's where the problem is, hopefully you get it figured out.

Gotcha. Thanks. I sure hope so. Better off dialing a rig in and then not shooting the darn thing much so nothing breaks and/or changes!

 

[Cloverstring]

Searching forums, I don't see much about tracking issues with NF scopes. Lots with other manufactures, but not NF. Have any of you had any experience with tracking on a NF scope or heard of it...??

 

[hafejd30]

Searching forums, I don't see much about tracking issues with NF scopes. Lots with other manufactures, but not NF. Have any of you had any experience with tracking on a NF scope or heard of it...??

Every manufacturer has issues at some point. So don’t rule out NF

If you have a solid mount for the gun or optic you can test the tracking without firing your rifle. Save you some ammo in the process

 

[powdahound76]

This is why you dont buy poors optics.

Amiright @BurtG ??


Kidding.

If the NX8 can survive him (burt the tractor smasher) as long as his have, there will be working ones found in the rubble of the first nuke blast in the impending ww3.
Not kidding on this one.


Bet its the clutch screws.
Best advice I can give is always set your zero stop at the range bench and test after. I learned this the hard way….
If an error occurs, start at the very beginning and check everything, you wont miss anything.

Zero at 100. 1” high at 200 is gayer than elmer fudd working a truck stop glory hole in WA state with @1J04


Also, lose the MOA. Its proven they aren't as good as MIL scopes and MOA shooters miss more.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

So you’re doing weird shit like zeroing an inch high at 200 yards (so where is your zero and in what conditions?) and going home and resetting the ZS and losing your zero instead of doing that at the range and confirming and you’ve had the same exact issue with two optics that are known to track well?… it’s not hard for me to see the most likely common denominator here.

Establish a proper 100 yard zero and run a tracking test there and shoot out to distance and report back. Putting it on a different rifle that’s easier shooting and less costly to shoot to test would also be a good idea. Measure your POA/POI using the reticle in the optic set to the magnification it’s calibrated for if you’re not already doing that.

 

[Cloverstring]

UPDATE: It ended up being the clutch screws on the turret stem. I first did an elevation dial test with the scope and a large piece of cardboard at 100yds with a plumb line and length numbers. When I dialed up everything seemed to track well, but dialing down I never got back to the same starting point. I tightened all 4 clutch screws and everything fell back into place. Fired some rounds and she's hammering again. However, I have not re-set the zero stop, I don't want to touch that whole clutch system again with my hunt so close. How much do you guys usually leave under your zero setting on the elevation dial if you ever need to dial down from your zero? 2-4 clicks?

Thank you for all the replies. I'm far from the expert most of you guys are. That's one of the main reasons I love this site, for the expert advice. I'm just glad it's not something mechanical with the scope or my rifle. Thanks again for all the help to everyone that posted!

 

[parshal]

I leave 1-2 mils so I never have to touch it again.

 

[hafejd30]

I’ve set mine to stop on 0 most of the time. But even the ZCO I have is preset to go .5 Mil below the zero stop. Nothing wrong with that

Should you have a change in ammo, remove can, swap barrels etc you have a bit to play with in adjustment in the future

And for a hunting rifle it will be fine. Only in high stress or very low light would it not stopping on 0 truly be an issue I think.

 

[Cloverstring]

I leave 1-2 mils so I never have to touch it again.

That's what I'm thinking... to never have to touch it again unless necessary. Thanks.

 

[Csafisher]

I have mine set about a mil under 0. I wouldn’t want anything more than because it’s on a competition gun. Hunting could be different. Don’t over think it. Fix it sticks are a great investment if you shoot a lot. They have a 4inlb torque limiter for nightforce and others.

 

[Makinchips208]

I set mine a few MOA below zero for that reason. I would like to have it set to zero but don’t like messing with it.

The “clutch freeze” is caused from over tightening the 4 little lock screws, which permanently distorts the two thin “clutch” or lock plates.
Over tightening is a problem, under tightening is as well.

They say 4inch pound. Or set the 4 screws finger tight, then 1/8th of a turn on all 4 screws. Here is a demo from a NF employee and competition shooter.

 

[ZA206]

I've got 3 NX8 scopes (love them). They are all MIL based, and I typically set the zero stop at 5 or 6 clicks past the true zero. (1.5-2.0 MOA)
The only reason I do that much is because I do more load development than most sane people would bother with and some bullets POI is higher than others, and I'm specific about where I like the POI to be when I do load development. If I was locked into just one load for a rifle (say a hunting rifle), I'd probably only bother with 2 clicks past.

-ZA

 

[Cloverstring]

I've got 3 NX8 scopes (love them). They are all MIL based, and I typically set the zero stop at 5 or 6 clicks past the true zero. (1.5-2.0 MOA)
The only reason I do that much is because I do more load development than most sane people would bother with and some bullets POI is higher than others, and I'm specific about where I like the POI to be when I do load development. If I was locked into just one load for a rifle (say a hunting rifle), I'd probably only bother with 2 clicks past.

-ZA

Thank you for the information.

 

[Cutout]

I set mine at zero, but I'm also comfortable adjusting it whenever I need to. If you're not comfortable re-adjusting it, there's nothing wrong with just setting it a Mil below and just paying attention when you dial back to zero.

 

[Cloverstring]

I set mine at zero, but I'm also comfortable adjusting it whenever I need to. If you're not comfortable re-adjusting it, there's nothing wrong with just setting it a Mil below and just paying attention when you dial back to zero.

That's where I'm at now. We'll see if I get the ambition to try and adjust it again this weekend. Thanks!