Noob question on starting a new rifle

[frankprstw]

Hi guys

Just unboxed my Tikka UPR today, this is my first precision bolt gun, mostly have been shooting semi autos before. Gonna set it up and go zero it tomorrow, so exited!

I am gonna run several wet patch through the bore to make sure there is no unwanted surprise in there before first shot, after reading the manual I’ve got some questions, would you help me ?

1. Should I clean the bore after the range trip? Manual suggests running 10-15 solvent patches down the bore after firing or else corrosion may occur within 24hr on a rifle left uncleaned. This would clear most carbon fouling out I believe, is this really necessary? What is the better way to keep the fouling and preserve the bore in the same time?

2. Where should I lube the rifle? I ran semi autos wet, like really wet, should I do the same on precision bolt guns?

Thank you

Francis

 

[kyzim311]

Question #1 will have a ton of different opinions, but here is my take. You should definitely clean it after the first range trip just to see how much fouling you have. Some do a break in process, I don't have any set method. If you get a lot of copper, you have a rough barrel and shooting more will help smooth that out. After your barrel has settled in, I clean if I do not plan shooting it again for the next couple weeks or more just to remove the carbon fouling and prevent corrosion. Tiborasarus Rex on YouTube has a video on barrel cleaning. Always make sure your barrel is dry before shooting.
For question #2, you do not need to run the bolt wet like an ar. Put a little oil on the outside surfaces or your rifle and wipe off the excess. You can leave a little more on the back of the lugs on your bolt, but a very light coat with do everything else. Mainly looking to prevent corrosion.

 

[FisherT&C]

Using grease on the bolt lugs and cocking cam ramp is ideal. Shooter's Choice, EWG, MiliTech or moly grease from any auto parts store will work.

 

[Protondecay123]

I would definitely clean it with a copper fouling solvent after the trip to the range. Fresh land and fresh copper jackets. I would use that every 10-15 rounds until you have about 50 down the pipe. I once had a Montana Rifle that they basically recommended something like copper fouling cleaning after each round for 5 rounds, then after each 5 rounds for 15 rounds, then each 10 rounds for the next 30 rounds or something like that. I’m not saying that’s the only or correct way. But you want regimen that focuses on copper fouling early on until things get broke in. YMMV.

 

[kentuckyMarksman]

Maybe I'm ignorant, but if using modern non-corrosive ammo, what corrosion will occur if the rifle is left uncleaned?

Sometimes I may let my rifles sit a few months without cleaning, but when I do clean them, they clean up fine.

 

[b6graham]

Maybe I'm ignorant, but if using modern non-corrosive ammo, what corrosion will occur if the rifle is left uncleaned?

Sometimes I may let my rifles sit a few months without cleaning, but when I do clean them, they clean up fine.

my current match barrel has 1k rounds through it. 1 patch down the barrel before first shot and hasnt seen a patch since. and it shoots just fine

 

[FisherT&C]

Maybe I'm ignorant, but if using modern non-corrosive ammo, what corrosion will occur if the rifle is left uncleaned?

Sometimes I may let my rifles sit a few months without cleaning, but when I do clean them, they clean up fine.

Keep in mind you are reading a manual written by a European company, Tikkas are used all over the world, Scandinavia to New Zealand, Australia and then some. People use and source different ammunition built to questionable standards sometimes and use them in alot of different environments. Tikka is just covering their bases and putting it in writing to prevent warranty conflicts.

 

[NineHotel]

The fallback break-in most will reference is - shoot 1 shot and clean, 5 times. Then 5 shots and clean, 2 times. Then 10 shots and clean, and be done with it.

The point of impact may continue to move around on you for the next 20-100 rounds. Don't let that bother you as you get settled on a final for now zero for the rifle.

After 200 rounds, if you have POI shifts as the barrel heats up, then you have a bad barrel, so watch for that after break-in and you get comfortable with shooting the rifle.

A repeatable point of impact is expected from a precision rifle. That said, the carbon-based factor (the shooter) may or may not be capable of generating a repeatable point of impact if a novice-level shooter. Before sending it back, have a known good precision shooter take it through a cold bore to warm barrel cycle on your behalf.

Good luck with it and enjoy! I'll never forget my first precision bolt rifle.

 

[frankprstw]

Thanks for the advices guys!

I’ve been hearing good things about Tikka, but today is just ridiculous, took me two rounds to walk on the target paper than zeroed at 100y with another 8rnds. Zero stayed, groups are consistently within 0.5MOA when I do my part. 2 botched groups with bad fundamentals like thumb pinching and improper loading are 0.86 and 1.13. I’happy with what Mk12 has been giving me with 77grainers but this is a whole new level!

So I guess it’ll be fine if I leave the barrel fouled without cleaning it? Or just mop the chamber?

What are some good dealers willing to ship Hornady 140 ELDMs to California? (FFL of course)

 

[Guess_70]

I personally only clean during the break-in process then don't clean again until the groups open up or speed changes. its about 300-400 rounds on my 6.5PRC. I do run a bore scope down it every 200 rounds or so to check for carbon build up in the chamber

 

[Southern Custom]

You didn’t mention what the rifle is chambered for. This can or should have some bearing on your cleaning regimen. For instance I started listening to too many people on the internet saying “don’t clean till accuracy falls off”. Well in my case with a barrel burning 6mm Creedmoor, with only light carbon cleaning performed every 150 rounds or so, at the 400 round mark I’d developed a serious carbon ring that caused a serious pressure jump with blown primers, accuracy loss and a speed jump of nearly 150fps and ejector swipes on the brass and heavy bolt lift etc. A .3 MOA gun turned into a 1.5” gun that ot no matter how I loaded for it. I chased my tail from the loading bench to the range for weeks.
In my case when I finally started to ask around for help, a lot of more experienced shooters who run 6mm came out of the woodwork and confirmed my issue, taught me how to fix it, what to look for, and explained how to avoid it in the future. Mainly by deep cleaning the barrel regularly. There’s a reason F Class shooters clean their barrels.
If I had just payed attention and done a thorough carbon cleaning every 100 rounds I could have avoided the problem. Other calibers can go 1000 rounds and not have an issue. The bottom line is don’t just listen to random answers on forums from guys who may just be parroting what they heard online. Always research your gun, barrel, cartridge etc and apply best practices for your particular setup. Every guard cartridge is different and each one requires different care.