Can you please detail these extractor changes and your cleaning procedure? PM if you don't want to clutter up OP's thread. I have a B22 FV and have recently caught the FTE Bug. Otherwise an awesome rifle for the $.
Posted here as it might be relevant.
The extractor change is to either swap out for a new one, which you can get the extractor, ejector, and spring clip free from Savage by calling tech support. If you want more than 1, you'll have to pay for them. Compare the new extractor to your old one. If you haven't worn the old one down, then you can stone the old one to very slightly increase the angle of bite of the extractor to the rim so it doesn't slip off.
It's also a good idea to put the spring back on using this method so it doesn't stretch it out and lose tension. From:
I have a Savage MK11 BV that won't extract the used cartridge. I had the bolt reblued after reworking the bolt handle and adding a knurled bolt knob. I don't really think that is the reason for not extracting the spent cases. Could it be from too much lead and carbon around the chamber area...
www.rimfirecentral.com
When you go to put it back together put the spring around the front of the bolt from above first with the little cutouts facing rearward. Then from the front of the bolt slid the blued sharp hook extractor in from the bolt face end under the spring. It goes on the ejection port side. Then the rounded one goes in from the front same way on the side away from the port.
They go back until the little cutout in the spring and the cutout in the extractor hook each other so that everything stays together. It doesn't matter which color you do first, but the sharp hook one has to go on the ejection port side of the bolt.
If you put the extractors in first and then bring the spring down over the top of everything you'll likely spread the spring too much and weaken it.
If you're having issues, you'll likely need to put some work into cleaning the chamber. With well over a case of CCI SV/Aguila SV though mine, it took a couple of hours to get it right. I'd soak a patch in Hoppe's #9, put it in the chamber for 20-30 minutes, scrub like hell with a brass brush, turn the rifle over and repeat. Why turn it over? Because all the Hoppe's while soaking will puddle at the bottom of the chamber and you'll end up with the gunk at the top not getting cleaned correctly. Then I use a VFG jag and pellet covered with JB bore paste to scrub a bit. Clean again with Hoppe's #9. I repeated that procedure until I could aim the barrel straight down and a CCI SV round would hand feed by gravity alone then point the barrel up and the round would fall free.
If you'll keep the chamber relatively clean, it won't take a lot of work. I scrub mine every couple of boxes of ammo with one of these:
The Brush n' Mop™ Chamber Tool is very handy for loosening and removing chamber fouling from your Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Marlin 60, and many other semi- auto and lever action rifles, and many .22 semi- auto pistols as well. This little tool will help keep your gun functioning at peek...
www.gunsmithertools.com
Or you can make your own:
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504746
If you scrub with the chamber tool while still on the range with the barrel still warm, it's more effective. Otherwise just pull the bolt and clean at home with your other cleaning tools.
I now "cheat" and use a Hawkeye (Shooters Edition) borescope to inspect the chamber to make sure it's clean. It's not a cheap tool, but it's worth the cost to me.
