• Get 30% off the first 3 months with code HIDE30

    Offer valid until 9/23! If you have an annual subscription on Sniper's Hide, subscribe below and you'll be refunded the difference.

    Subscribe
  • Having trouble using the site?

    Contact support

Suppressors Obsidian 9 baffles stuck together

jlow

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 15, 2010
363
19
72
This is not baffles stuck in a can. New never used can and baffles slides out as a stack but will not come apart. Have tried the hex wrench trick and only can take a couple apart. Any suggestions?
 
Baffles was still shinny so no one used it. Trying some heat and US right now. Don't think it's oil or grease as the baffles were still shinny and new, more like the tolerance was so tight.
 
I just picked up my obsidian 9 a few weeks ago. Noticed the baffles were super tight, but I haven't actually tried to take them apart yet. You got me curious now.
 
One thing about using US to clean the can, only the baffles, SS parts and brass parts. Never painted parts like the can tube or caps.

Correct, thanks for reminding everyone. No aluminum either. IIRC, no titanium either.

I US clean with one part CLR and three parts water. (Don't use CLR on blued or painted parts, only bare metal like stainless). Once everything is clean/dry, I spray the internals down with MIG anti-spatter. Works like a champ.

edit; US = Ultrasonically clean, sorry for the vagueness.
 
Last edited:
Rugged's recommended formular which I used and will share with you guys is 50/50 mix of water and Purple Power. I heat it up to boiling in my US cleaner and let the stuff sit in it for 45 min then sonicate for 15 min. Worked amazingly well, but again, only the baffles/springs and brass parts NONE of the tubes/caps should go in. I've heard people experience significant damage doing that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Threadcutter308
I'm at 350 rounds through my Obsidian 9. My baffles are tight too. Is 1000 rounds a good interval before cleaning? I'm intrigued by the mig anti platter treatment too. Thanks.
 
I'm at 350 rounds through my Obsidian 9. My baffles are tight too. Is 1000 rounds a good interval before cleaning? I'm intrigued by the mig anti platter treatment too. Thanks.

I have an Obsidian 45. The baffles "loosened up" over time and are easy to get apart now (probably 500 rds). Any brand of MIG anti spatter will do the trick. Stupid simple. Squeeze/spray bottle, just hose down the clean parts, let 'em sit, wait for the excess to drain off and put everything back together. If you get "too much" on and re-assemble, the first rounds will be fired wet and the db reduction will be greater. No downside. When you take everything apart and ultrasonically clean, you'll giggle like a schoolgirl........
 
I have an Obsidian 45. The baffles "loosened up" over time and are easy to get apart now (probably 500 rds). Any brand of MIG anti spatter will do the trick. Stupid simple. Squeeze/spray bottle, just hose down the clean parts, let 'em sit, wait for the excess to drain off and put everything back together. If you get "too much" on and re-assemble, the first rounds will be fired wet and the db reduction will be greater. No downside. When you take everything apart and ultrasonically clean, you'll giggle like a schoolgirl........

Awesome. I suppose this will work well too for an Element 2? Also has SS baffles. Sounds like a need a Sonic cleaner.
 
Awesome. I suppose this will work well too for an Element 2? Also has SS baffles. Sounds like a need a Sonic cleaner.

Like others have said, no painted tubes, titanium, aluminum, or end caps in the US cleaner. I use diluted CLR for the cleaning solution. Do not put blued (or otherwise finished) parts in a CLR bath. Stainless baffles, OK.
I just bought a Bald Eagle heavier duty U/S cleaner from Grizzly. Works great. I started out with a $60.00 special from Harbor Freight. For the money, it did surprisingly well. But, it would only run for 5 minutes, then have to rest for 10 or 15 minutes before you could run another 5 minute cycle. For what I paid for it, I can't complain. It was just too light of duty to be workable for me.
 
Like others have said, no painted tubes, titanium, aluminum, or end caps in the US cleaner. I use diluted CLR for the cleaning solution. Do not put blued (or otherwise finished) parts in a CLR bath. Stainless baffles, OK.
I just bought a Bald Eagle heavier duty U/S cleaner from Grizzly. Works great. I started out with a $60.00 special from Harbor Freight. For the money, it did surprisingly well. But, it would only run for 5 minutes, then have to rest for 10 or 15 minutes before you could run another 5 minute cycle. For what I paid for it, I can't complain. It was just too light of duty to be workable for me.
I'm looking at this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-...100525&hash=item3638866150:g:ig8AAOSwlQ5baAsD
 
I thought titanium is fine in an ultrasonic cleaner:
I've read that and also read not to do it. I'm not sure there is a black and white answer about titanium. It might have something to do about what cleaner is used.