Is there any discernible differences in the older 10/22’s VS those currently being made by Ruger? For a general -purpose pilnker that may be eventually upgraded piece by piece if that helps.
Old vs New 10/22’s
- Thread starter TheBigCountry
- Start date
Not to my knowledge... But mine is from 20 years ago, and haven't bought a new one since, so no idea about the new ones. LOL
Yes.
New ones everything is "polymer" - barrel band, trigger pack.
My 1984 vintage everything is "alloy" - barrel band and trigger pack.
Better to buy an older used one with fake metal than a new one with fake oil industry parts.
If you plan on buying all Kidd shit or other custom parts than I dont think it matters.
New ones everything is "polymer" - barrel band, trigger pack.
My 1984 vintage everything is "alloy" - barrel band and trigger pack.
Better to buy an older used one with fake metal than a new one with fake oil industry parts.
If you plan on buying all Kidd shit or other custom parts than I dont think it matters.
Mine got snatched apart immediately (literally the next day at work) and I started sticking every Valquartsen part we had at the gun store in it. LOL
Mine is still "original".
It was my first gun. I think given to me when I was 16.
When I bought it I also bought a neat Federal Ordinance black walnut folding stock that has a great metal shoulder stock that is based on the German MP-40. Stock photo like this one.......
Shocked to find that the stock is now worth twice what the rifle is worth.
I have been shooting all kinds of 10/22 rifles for over 40 years and if you are planning on changing factory parts for quality custom parts you are much better off just buying a Kidd 10/22.They are as good as it gets and it will not cost a whole lot more.
Went down that path a couple of times, once with good results (that rifle actually has a good factory barrel) and the second was very disappointing, only thing left of that factory rifle was the receiver. Going forward any time somebody mentions 10/22 tuning I tell them to skip it and order a Kidd super grade and call it done.
If I wanted accurate my thinking would be a bolt gun or something other than a 10-22.
If I wanted pure fun walking through the woods trying to shoot a dragon fly off a flower than my factory 10-22 is it.
It also makes me feel like a giant handling it's diminutive self.....good for the ego.........like for a moment in time I am actually over 508 tall.
If I wanted pure fun walking through the woods trying to shoot a dragon fly off a flower than my factory 10-22 is it.
It also makes me feel like a giant handling it's diminutive self.....good for the ego.........like for a moment in time I am actually over 508 tall.
I agree, if it's pure accuracy your after get the bolt gun. I've seen some good shooters show up to a match with their SG's just for shits and giggles, they only give up ground on the really long stuff.
This is purely gonna be a plinker; it may, at some point, get an upgraded trigger. I have a CZ 457 Varmint for my other needs.
I wouldnt sweat it. I currently have 4 or 5 modified 10/22s in the safe, and while I initially tried to stick with the older metal part versions, none of mine retain factory stock/barrel, so the barrel band being metal issue was moot. The trigger sucks stock from about any era 10/22 I have ever touched, even something as simple as the Volquartsen hammer kit makes a big difference. Spend a bit of time/money upgradeing either there, and you have a fun little plinker. Get the one that is available and meets your needs.
Personally, for a walk around gun I have been surprised to find that a Hogue stock, alu sleeved barrel (Tac Sol, Kidd, Whistle Pig, and others) with a red dot or a low power scope to keep the gun super light has turned into my go-to for 10/22s, with a couple set up this way now.
Personally, for a walk around gun I have been surprised to find that a Hogue stock, alu sleeved barrel (Tac Sol, Kidd, Whistle Pig, and others) with a red dot or a low power scope to keep the gun super light has turned into my go-to for 10/22s, with a couple set up this way now.
Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. I’m learning towards snagging one from either work or the local Academy, just seeing when the heck they are available.
That’s the correct solution. I have a very clean all-original 1966 and a 2016.
The old one has a 7lb trigger and presents no benefits over a newer model except alloy parts and receiver anodizing (and certain replacement parts like charging handles/recoil springs may not fit). Neither is more reliable or “accurate” than the other in factory form.
Honestly, I'd just buy a receiver from Brownells, a BX Trigger, a good barrel (Shaw, Feddersen, IBI, etc) and put it in a Victor Titan stock, a KRG Bravo or if you want wood check out Boyd's. Ive done it this way a couple times and Im pleased with the outcome.
Thus far I’ve owned just less than 30 of this design. The mid 80’s to mid 90’s versions seem to have the nicest fit and finish on the metal parts, but usually have crappy triggers. The stock wood quality is a lottery, however I’ve seen some beautiful DSP and International versions. If I were tracking down a guaranteed shooter, it’d be the TNZ model, a special run that I’ve never heard bad about (although they visually don’t appeal to me).
Of all I’ve owned, only one factory barrel approaches bolt gun accuracy, most are mediocre.
Of all I’ve owned, only one factory barrel approaches bolt gun accuracy, most are mediocre.
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