Rifle Scopes Optics and multi-caliber rifles

MBrady

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Jul 22, 2007
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I am looking for some advice regarding how to choose one optic for use on a multi-caliber rifle.
Later this year I plan to buy a DT SRS-A1 (probably from the firearms exchange here on the hide). I am definitely getting the .308 barrel. After that, I was thinking about the .300WM and then maybe either the .338 or 6.5.
Applications would be mainly competitive shooting and then hunting. Ideally I would like one optic to run them all.
I am eligible for the military discount from Leupold, Bushell and Vortex, so ideally these would be my first choices.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
Luckily for you, as an SRS owner and someone who’s been lucky enough to have owned a bunch of different scopes. The easiest scope imo to run on switch barrel setups is going to be either the razor 2 or amg because of the L-tec turrets. You can mark the inner turret for each barrel and write that down on your phone or something and you’ll always have it. Done deal. There’s a couple guys running that setup with their AI hopefully they’ll chime in. @morganlamprecht
 
Might I suggest looking at one of the newer electronic scopes with HUD's? These will allow you too load ballistic profiles for different cartridges (with offsets) so that the deltas between the cartridges can be accounted for...

Revic and Steiner are releasing their offerings this year.
 
If you’ve got some cash laying around the TT seems like the best option, because of how easy it is to zero the turrets. Just a couple turns with your fingers, lift, move, place, and tighten back down. Takes maybe 10 seconds, with no tools.
 
if i was only running a couple barrels, didnt change very often, and usually had a chance to confirm zero prior to shooting when it counted...id look at the Tangents...but for my uses, when i had 2 or 3 6mm barrels, a couple 6.5s, a 308, and a 22 creed that i changed almost every time i took the rifle out...like Covert mentioned, the L-tec's in the Gen 2 and AMG have been my favorite...i never have to worry about counting clicks or referencing other barrels, just take note and mark the inner stem for each one, change the setting, lock it down, and go...i had a gen 2 on my AT for forever, then picked up a minox, and i ran it on my AT for a few months, and then went back to an AMG because i like the turret setup better...the minox rides on a standard rifle that sees 1 barrel at a time til its toast...maybe someone has a better idea for running standard type turrets, but im most comfortable with the L-tec design

ive ran matches with zero offsets in a ballistic calc before and its not bad, still shot fine, but i didnt like that i had no distance to dope reference...like on my 6.5s i know 300 yds is always around 1mil, 400 is always around 1.9, 500 is always around 2.7, etc...i know those same numbers on my 6s and 308s but when running offsets, that all goes out the window and youre completely relying on the ballistic solution...so if you accidentally write something down wrong or dial wrong, you have to go back to the calc unless you remember the offset and do some math in your head
 
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similar thread like this came up the other day ,
running a DT SRS a1 my self with 3 barrels . zeroed with 308 , 6.5creed is same POI as 308 and my 300WM barrel is 0.4 mil down .
good thing with the Razor2 is the 0.5 mil below Zero , nice and easy to run and overall a great optic
 
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My solution to this issues is much less fancy. I just dial to the zero for that barrel and then lock the turrets down. I will then just hold over.
 
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I do what Dag34 does all the time and have repeatable zero with my NF unimount and Razor2.

The L-tec in the Vortex Razor/AMG (I had an AMG, currently have the Razor2 as my primary) do indeed make it super easy if you have to use the zero stop.
 
Man i went the kahles route on my SRS, Just log the chance in zero from one conversion to the other in your dope book and its easy as pie. If you are going to do it alot i have just dialed the zero change and used the AMR reticle if i wanted to just verify some dope.
 
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I’m a bit cheaper and a little more old school then most here. I use the Bushnell ERS and love it’s set-screw-less zeroing. My plan is to upgrade to the new Bushnell XRS gen 2 but for now the easy zero change works perfectly with my AIAT. I don’t like tightening set screws over and over. It can make dimples that the set screws want to fall back into.
 
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