Permanent CZ455 rail?

[Nodak]

I am putting together a CZ455 and am stuck on what to do about a scope rail. Not liking the set screw types and the Area 419 seems the best on what is available but what about having the receiver drilled and tapped for a picatinny blank? I would imagine that I'm not the 1st to think this is a good idea. I did see one guy who had it done on RFC and it looked great, still waiting to hear from him on where he had it done.

So, has anyone here done this?

 

[kl3309]

Area 419 rail slides over 455 factory dovetail from back to front so it's indexed to centerline. It is made for that application so mates perfectly with the dovetail maximizing contact. The four clamping screws and crosspin recoil lug are more than enough to hold the rail in place.
What does drilling and tapping for a generic pic rail offer over this?

 

[Nodak]

Area 419 rail slides over 455 factory dovetail from back to front so it's indexed to centerline. It is made for that application so mates perfectly with the dovetail maximizing contact. The four clamping screws and crosspin recoil lug are more than enough to hold the rail in place.
What does drilling and tapping for a generic pic rail offer over this?

Every rifle I have and 90% sold have a rail that is screwed down to the receiver. Just seems like a better mouse trap. And yes it is very rare for a CZ455 to be made for a screwed down rail but I want it my way. Now if I can't at a reasonable cost then ya I'll get the clamper

 

[padom]

Every rifle I have and 90% sold have a rail that is screwed down to the receiver. Just seems like a better mouse trap. And yes it is very rare for a CZ455 to be made for a screwed down rail but I want it my way. Now if I can't at a reasonable cost then ya I'll get the clamper

Anything can be done. It comes down to how much do you want to pay. Send it to LRI and have them drill and tap the action and mate a rail to it.

In the end, you'll have more into that work then the entire action cost x2.

 

[Nodak]

Anything can be done. It comes down to how much do you want to pay. Send it to LRI and have them drill and tap the action and mate a rail to it.

In the end, you'll have more into that work then the entire action cost x2.

 

[Nodak]

Time will tell. Sometimes I dont get what I want

 

[carbonbased]

I haven’t owned the 419 rail. I’ve owned DIP rails on centerfires, which use microscopic set screws to fasten the base to the top of the receiver. Didn’t like them; came loose, not machined inline with the receiver.

I almost went the route you’re thinking about, but found https://www.murphyprecision.com/Products/Item/1034

Its super solid and stainless steel. Whole different league. My CZ455 got knocked over onto a concrete floor. Scope got hit. Zero did not move.

If you want lighter, get the titanium version. He will customize for you. And IGNORE THE PIC OF THE SCREWS. He mentions it in the description, but his set screws have brass tips. The set screws are also quite large. Personally, for a scope base, I am a huge fan of steel (or titanium).

 

[Darayavaus]

I used the DIP rail and put a few drops of red locktite on the mating surfaces before I tapped it on with a mallet. Solid as a rock for functionality, and aesthetically it looks like it was machined on.

 

[Nodak]

I've come to terms with just using the Area 419 rail as my best option.

 

[45cal4life]

How about bedding (delvcon, steel putty, etc) the rail to the reciever? Scuff everything up, maybe dremel or file some slots in the rail and or possibly into the reciever and use a permanent thread locker on the set screws

 

[Nodak]

I had a thought on bedding one down but for my comfort zone on this rifle it's either drilled & screwed down or clamped down. I have bedded many a rail when setting up a rifle but doing it to a slide on/setscrew type doesn't appeal to me. But, that's just me. I'm sure the Area 419 rail will serve my purposes more than adequately. I would still rather D&T but the cost/effort for gain in this case does equal out right now.