*PICS* AWT Remington Chassis Review: Initial Impressions

[PS-G1_Sniper]

With AWT listing the chassis $100 less than when it premiered with the forearm grip (still a hefty $895), I thought now would be a good time to do a quick review. It was between this and the new XLR Element chassis which is cheaper, but only comes in black (tired of black). Yes I could have cerakote as well. Also, think the element looks better with a short or at least moderate diameter barrel whereas mine is a huge 30" truck axle. This is for my 6.5x55AI build.

Let me first say that I've been involved in QC'ing aerospace machine work that my previous company made for over four years on everything from turbine engine rotary blades to Predator drone parts. I'm now a product manager for a large multi-national automotive tool company and oversee new products and QC of auto tools. So while this isn't my 20th chassis, I'm looking at it from a machining perspective.

My Pros:
- It's light. While it feels more or less normal to me, I'm told a notch over 4lbs is light for an aluminum chassis.
- It's solid, very sold. Nothing on this chassis gives you the feel of flimsiness. It's 6061, billet, or 7075 aluminum wherever it needs to be it seems. The butt-stock attachment was my main concern, I completely disassembled it and it all gave me more confidence than I had. The rails are dead on machined and when the adjuster bolts are loose it very solidly and firmly slides back or forward almost like closing a bolt on the rifle itself.
- The ergonomics of use (aka when behind it) seem to be spot on. Feels comfortable in the arm and stabilized in prone (this on a unfinished rifle, mind you).
- The interchangeability of the AR style pistol grip. I like/dont mind the one provided, but I know the finger notches might interrupt some's natural hold so it's nice to know it easily swaps out.
- The mag drop is effortless and well thought out.
- It takes 5 round AICS 300 winmag mags. And I actually fit 7 rounds of 6.5x55 in it, although 6 is much easier. I know there was some disappointment when it came to people being held to 10-round mags for .308, but im proud to report the LA version accepts 5-round mags quite well.
- The cheek-rest is actually more comfortable than it looked. Then again, i've never been one for padding and always went with bare wood or bare stock.
- The adjustment for the cheek-rest is firm and stays there once adjusted. I'd heard reviews say the thumb turned dial might move when shooting or when dragging around and should have a clicking feature, I don't see that happening too easily. Then again it's a bare stock at this pint.
- I like the rear hook and picatinny, although i wish the picatinny rail was mounted higher in order to have a shorter silhouette when using a rear monopod.
- The buttstock pad is quite thick and squishy, if I actually was shooting 300WM it wouldnt be a tall feat.
- The machining work and machining time put into this is 1. awesome but 2. a bit ridiculous.
- Ability to mount bi-pod so far forward really aids in my weight imbalance problem with such a large barrel.
- The forearm does allow for 1.3" full length diameter barrels (i've had to open up every other aftermarket stock i've had).
- 3 color options which is nice.
- It's looks are somewhat unique and very in your face (like me). But not for everyone.


My Cons:
- Some features are as sharp as they look. The machined picatinny rail forward of the mag-well isn't sharp on each notch as I thought, but each corner is rather sharp/pointy and not "eased." The rest of the machining ledges arent as pronounced and luckily are not 90 degree angles, but could use some easing as well. The whole body could have used a good 15-20 mins in an industrial vibratory tumbler.
- There was a nick on mine (shown in pics below). It was anodized over, so the nick was obviously on the stock when anodized, a QC problem my best guess.
- The threads for the forearm picatinny aren't the same as the threads I have for two different sling swivel studs. The threads are more course, which is odd of high quality machine work which usually incorporates finer threads. So I basically need a picatinny bi-pod or an adapter which is lame. I thought I was going to be able to take out one of the attaching bolt and thread in the stud to dual action as a fastener and sling swivel.
- These bolts also poke through the forearm into the barrel relief (shown in picture). Running a large barrel like myself, I may have to grind these down. And on a near $1k stock you shouldn't be grinding anything.
- Depending on the light source, the forearm looks darker than the body.
- You have to raise the cheek rest quite high in order to adjust the LOP. Well, when it's that high, you cant see through your scope and have to lower it again to find your sweet spot then raise it again and tighten the bolts.
- The bolt and raiser guide pins distend below their housing when you lower it to "low ring" height (shown in pic). These offer a sharp catch for your hand or other things when at this setting.
- The trigger inlet doesnt allow some aftermarket triggers to safety select.
- The recoil lug section is snug which can be good for a factory Remington, but for those with larger aftermarket recoil lugs it will require opening.
- It's not a great carry around stock, not ergonomically designed outside of being behind it IMO.

I'll add more when I'm back on.

The reason you clicked on this thread:

My build so far (waiting on custom action)

Bartlein 1.2-1.06" 5R 6.5 31" 1:8.5 twist barrel blank
PTG Floating 6.5x55 40 degree reamer for Ackley Improved
Redding 6.5x55 ACK custom dies
Vortex PST 6-24x50 FFP MOA
Timney 510

 

[r.patrick]

I have recently had a rifle (300WM) built up on one of these chassis.
Couple things I noticed:
1) Mine also came with a couple nicks, that were also anodized. So it was sent out that way.
2) My AI magazine seems to, for lack of a better term, "hang down" in the magazine well and not sit up as tightly as it should. This led to the bolt passing over the next round I was trying to chamber. Not all the time, but a few times out of the 50 rounds currently down range.
3) I used a trued Remington action for the build, so the internal area of the chassis had to be modified on a mill and then fiberglass bedded.

I will post more findings as they come to me...

 

[FALex]

what's the deal with the small section of rail forward of the trigger guard? Then comes a "step, then another section of rail? Not sure if like...

I think there are only so many iterations of chassis' that can occur. AI, XLR, KRG, McCree, APO, PDC, Eliseo, Cadex, and MDT seem to have the market locked down. And even out of those listed, there are a couple that appear to be much more popular than others. Of those, I have owned 3 and have handled 6. Each has their pros/cons, ergonomics, etc...

Maybe the new competition will make the prices drop, but not with anodizing over knicks and scratches it won't!

 

[PS-G1_Sniper]

It's a two part system, you can remove the forearm part and run a bi pod off the first rail and reduce weight + increase the barrel dia over 1.3", or use the forearm and move the center of gravity backward and pick up stability.

 

[NonCompliance]

Thanks for posting the review. I would like to address a few concerns I have. The first is the nick in the anodizing. As any of our customers will attest, all you need to do is contact me with your problem and it will be handled to your satisfaction guaranteed. As with any company out there things will slip through the cracks and products that don't meet criteria will pass through. This isn't the norm and I will make it right if it is brought to my attention.

Second is the sling swivel stud. We currently use a 10-24 screw for both the front and rear. We originally threaded these holes for 10-32 but after a few returns from people who stripped the threads we went to a more coarse 10-24 and haven't had any problems since. HS precision used to sell 10-24 studs for use with there stuff. Not sure if they do anymore. We are going to begin production of these ourselves and should have a large batch in a couple months.

Third is the anodizing itself. Being one of the few manufactures who uses the best anodizing available (type 3 hard coat) we have a limited number of anodizing companies at our disposal. There are very few that offer subdued colors such as flat dark earth, OD Green, etc. Sometimes there can be slight shade variants in the coating, this is entirely out of our control as well as the anodizing company's. Slightly different metal alloys produce slightly different colors. Rest assure that we use the finest anodizing available. We get our stuff coated at the same place as Barrett, Daniel Defense, and several other prominent manufacturers.

Lastly I will touch on the LOP adjustment as this is something that is often brought up. In our opinion LOP is something that should be set and not touched again. I have shot alot throughout my time in the military and even more since I was retired. Once I set LOP on my rifles it is never touched again unless I let my wife or one of my children shoot one of my guns. I see no need to have a rapid LOP on a precision rifle. It may look more "tacticool" but how often is it truly utilized? Adding a quick LOP adjustment adds small moving parts to the chassis which in time will wear out and become loose. Not something I want on a precision rifle. What I want is a rifle that looks good and shoots even better. Our chassis provides both.

As you stated, there is alot of design and machining time involved in our chassis. I would be willing to bet that there is almost twice as much run time as other manufacturers. We could eliminate some of this machining but then this would put us looking just like everyone else out there. Square and blocky with a couple lines milled in the side. Our chassis is not for everyone, but for those who like the look and superb ergonomics of it there is no replacement.

-Shane

 

[PS-G1_Sniper]

Shane, thanks for addressing some of the points I mentioned (and obviously these are just my observations).

- The nick doesn't bother me, I plan on it being further nicked up from use soon. Just pointing it out for review purposes, so it's a good thing you can address that to everyone.

- The use of the 10-24 over the 10-32 makes sense given your feedback, and I'm glad you mentioned it so I know the reasoning.

- The anodizing I had 0 gripes with. I only mentioned it for others' consideration. Having sent many batches of billet, 6061-T651 and 7075 to the anodizers over the years - trying to match pigment and luster across many parts is a pipe dream. Even the exact same batch of aluminum being machined two different ways or being machined vs using the bar stock form can give you completely different luster and brightness.