Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

[Whiskey-Echo]

Hey guys,
I just recently got into the 10/22 scene and picked up a bunch of stuff. I've read a far amount on bedding the action of the ruger so I got myself some Devcon 10110 and some Kiwi neutral shoe polish, and silly putty. This will be my first bedding job but I think I'll be ok.

The only question that still remains is if I should do an aluminum pillar or not. I'll be using the factory receiver and tactical solutions fluted barrel in a B&C Anshutz stock. I plan on doing the receiver and the first 2 inches of the barrel so it will free-float. The B&C stock has a recessed escutcheon for the takedown screw to bottom-out against so I don't think a pillar would work or even be needed. I just wanted to run this by you guys and see what you thought about it. Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[kombayotch]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

I just did it with the same barrel and stock. Yes, you definitely want the pillar. There is something about the material this stock is made from... The takedown screw would always loosen, no matter how much I tightened it. I got rid of the escutcheon completely. The screw and the action are against the pillar.

Also, it is really hard to get the Devcon to stick to this material, I used a ball bit on the dremel and made undercuts for the epoxy to anchor to.

Let me dig up some pics I took during the process.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Give the rifle a decent tryout before you do the bedding, and make absolutely sure you need it before you take an irrevocable step.

First bedding jobs can be pretty hard to sell, if you find you want to at some later date. I have never actually seen a replacement stock for a .22LR that direly needed to be bedded.

Most shooters are severely challenged to make the upgraded .22LR rifle demonstrate a real flaw, as long as the parts installations are done properly.

Not all alterations equate to true improvement. This I've found out the hard way.

Greg

 

[kombayotch]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Actually, with the stock and barrel in question, it was quite easy to demonstrate...

The TacSol barrel is really sensitive to flexing. The B&C stock attempts to support the barrel at both extremities of the barrel channel, but the fit is poor. The way the action always loosens just makes it worse. Consistency and accuracy were improved drastically with hogging out the barrel channel and bedding.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

OK, I stand corrected.

 

[kombayotch]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Ok, here is how I did it:

Hogged out the barrel channel to get rid of the supports and free-float.

Drilled out the hole for the pillar (oversized). Got rid of the escutcheon.

Made some undercuts in the hole for a better anchor.

Made a pilar form 3/8" Al. Notice that it does NOT touch the barrel clamp.

Made undercuts where the epoxy will go. I ended up making them deeper for the barrel pad. These holes are not done with a drill bit, but with a ballnose bit on the Dremel. Each little hole is undercut.

You only need to do the very back of the receiver.

You DON'T want to bed the barrel clamp because if you remove it, chances are it will not be put back on the same way.

The action doesn't drop straight down with the trigger assembly on. You need some space to rotate it. Notice a bit of grinding had to be done. This was so that the "feet" on the magwell would clear.

Rear support. An extra layer of tape was added to the top of the receiver so that there would be a step is overflow occured (which did).

I also created a butt hook using wood and JB Weld.

Now the fit is consistent. This ended up cutting group size in half. As I mentioned, the TacSol barrel is very flexible and is really sensitive to flexing or movement in the stock. It really benefits from the consistent mounting the bedding privides. And the action never comes loose with the pillar the way it always did before.

I don't think a steel barrel would be as sensitive and I've been considering replacing the TacSol with a SS barrel for this reason.

.

 

[Pokerpot]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Awesome pics! Thanks for all of that. Looks like a very clean job.

I never bedded any of my 77/22's because they were super accurate without it. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

(They all have upgraded barrels).

 

[kombayotch]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Thanks! It looks a little better in person, and since its been cleaned of clay and mold release. Gun Scrubber spray works well for that...

 

[Borg]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

I've bedded a lot of rifles before, but using Silly Putty is a first for me,, what's it used for?

 

[kombayotch]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

If you didn't use it with the 10/22, you would glue your action into the stock. Glue going around stuff would create a mechanica lock.

 

[Borg]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you didn't use it with the 10/22, you would glue your action into the stock. Glue going around stuff would create a mechanica lock. </div></div>
Ahh, you mean modeling clay?
Silly Putty is the stuff your kids play with that will not retain shape, flows into a puddle, or out of any nooks and crannys of a receiver.
To the OP, don't use Silly Putty, get some modeling clay, or you will glue in your action,, forever.

 

[Whiskey-Echo]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Kombayatch, awesome pics! Thanks a lot for that. So then I guess that decides it. Pillar-bedding it is. Now I just gotta find a source for the pillar material.

Question though; how hard is it to drill the escutcheon out? Do you just drill up to it from the top-side and then pop it through? I don't have an end-mill bit. Do I need one?

Borg, I have read that the silly putty makes clean-up much easier as it doesn't leave any of itself behind when pulled off the receiver like clay does. The silly putty that I have (the stuff in the plastic eggs) doesn't feel like it will flow into a puddle. It feels just like clay, just a little more glossy. Seems to hold it's shape from kneeding it a little bit. I'll be sure to test it's flow characteristics though just to be safe. Are you sure you're not thinking of play-dough? As i try to remember back to my childhood, (don't ask how long ago) I think that stuff was very soft and squishy.

 

[kombayotch]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

You just need to remove the paint in the hole on the botton, it isn't even glued there. I used a screw to grab it and pull it out.

You can free float the barrel using a Dremel or a stick with sand paper. You don't need the mill, it just does a nicer job (visually).

Just go to Micheal's or any hobby store and get some clay. It's cheap.

 

[Red_SC]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Play dough works, but leaves the color in the bedding. I think I still have blue in the bedding on my old 10/22 stock. I know the squishy stuff he's talking about, but I don't remember what it's called either.

 

[Captain Kirk]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Hey Wiskey-Echo, I have 30 or so custom pillars in hand for the 10/22 I just had custom made. Scroll down to the last post in my thread for some pics

Custom "mini" A5 10/22 stock

Kirk R

 

[Borg]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Play Doh is made with a lot of salt(don't want that on your blueing)and hardens very hard.
It's been a long time since my boy played with any of it,, he's 40.
Mold the Silly Putty into something and let set overnight to check

 

[kombayotch]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Play Doh also looks incredibly a lot like sugar cookie dough and can easily be mistaken for it, especially when theres a cookbook sitting on the counter open to the sugar cookie recipe. This is why you should always sample in small quantities...

Just sayin'.

 

[Whiskey-Echo]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Ok, just an update on the project...

As per your advice, I checked to see if the silly-putty would sag if left overnight. It did, a little. Probably just enough to make me worry, so I went out and got some regular modelling clay. Thanks for the heads up on this potential problem!

My stock is all drilled and clearanced.

I found the pillars and takedown screws locally at a Grainger store. The pillars are 3/8" OD and 3/4" tall and have a hole for a #12 screw. I'll put some cuts in it just like in the pics above. The screws are a hex-head cap screw, stainless, 12-24 thread, and measure a full inch under the head. (unlike the volquartsen that are about 7/8" at best)

Here are the links to the Grainger parts if anyone is interested;

The spacer:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6TB13?Pid=search

The Screw:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1GU72?Pid=search

I also filed down the top of the receiver to get the 'hump' off so my 15MOA scope base had a better surface to mate with. The receiver is old (1976) and has a few battle scars on it, so I took the sharp edges off with a sanding sponge and ordered some Duracoat tactical black. I'd like to do the Devcon bedding before I paint it so as not to mess up a new finish, so I'm hoping the Devcon shrinks a little as it cures to leave room for a coat of new paint. What do you think?

 

[kombayotch]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Put some Scotch tape where you plan to paint. It should leave just the right amount of space.

 

[RTH1800]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Grainger also carries the Ti devcon if you want it.

 

[Whiskey-Echo]

Re: Pillar-bed or just Devcon?

Ok did the bedding, and I did NOT permanently epoxy my action into the stock. What a relief! LOL Thanks to all who helped. It came out pretty good too; pillar firmly in place, barrel pad nice and even, rear of receiver slips right into place, and nothing touching the v-block.

I also mounted some swivel stud screws, and I'm going to do an adjustable comb next.

I know we all like pics so I'll be sure to get some up here asap.