Sorry if this has been asked a thousand times. Is this very hard to do or is it something that should be done by a gunsmith? If not, is there any good "how to" videos for this process?
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Gunsmithing Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
- Thread starter the_math_ninja
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Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
just use a dremel with a cratex polishing wheel. you cant fuck it up.
just use a dremel with a cratex polishing wheel. you cant fuck it up.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shootist2004</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just use a dremel with a cratex polishing wheel. you cant fuck it up. </div></div>
Yes you can, although a Cratex will take some time. A Dremmel will get you there faster.
There are some very specific measurements that need to be maintained when doing a ramp and throat on a 1911. If you under cut the throat on the barrel you can have blow outs in the brass and if you under cut the ramp you will have significant feeding issues that cannot be fixed. I would recommend you buy and read Jerry Kunhausen's "The Colt .45 Automatic, A Shop Manual" vol's I & II before taking a Dremel to your 1911.
With proper attention you can achieve the ability to feed empty cases from the magazine. Push it too far and you will have significant issues. At best you will need a new barrel, at worst someone will have to weld up your frame and begin again.
Cheers,
Doc
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shootist2004</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just use a dremel with a cratex polishing wheel. you cant fuck it up. </div></div>
Yes you can, although a Cratex will take some time. A Dremmel will get you there faster.
There are some very specific measurements that need to be maintained when doing a ramp and throat on a 1911. If you under cut the throat on the barrel you can have blow outs in the brass and if you under cut the ramp you will have significant feeding issues that cannot be fixed. I would recommend you buy and read Jerry Kunhausen's "The Colt .45 Automatic, A Shop Manual" vol's I & II before taking a Dremel to your 1911.
With proper attention you can achieve the ability to feed empty cases from the magazine. Push it too far and you will have significant issues. At best you will need a new barrel, at worst someone will have to weld up your frame and begin again.
Cheers,
Doc
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Throat mods to the 1911 can be tricky. If at all possible, I'd delegate this task to an EXPERIENCED 1911 smith. I've tried it myself, and essentially ruined a beautiful series 70 Colt Gold Cup frame.
A viable alternative is to have a barrel with integral feed ramp installed, but this should also be done by an experienced 1911 smith. This is how we salvaged the frame I ruined.
Greg
Throat mods to the 1911 can be tricky. If at all possible, I'd delegate this task to an EXPERIENCED 1911 smith. I've tried it myself, and essentially ruined a beautiful series 70 Colt Gold Cup frame.
A viable alternative is to have a barrel with integral feed ramp installed, but this should also be done by an experienced 1911 smith. This is how we salvaged the frame I ruined.
Greg
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Can it be done? Sure. Should it be done by someone not well versed in exactly what should be done, how to do it, and the effect it will have? Absolutely not.
The problem is that a simple polish job is just fine, but too many go that little extra bit and slightly change the angle of the ramp or, as mentioned above, undercut the lip of the barrel.
Let me ask this- Why do you want to do this?
Answer that and we'll come up with a better answer.
Can it be done? Sure. Should it be done by someone not well versed in exactly what should be done, how to do it, and the effect it will have? Absolutely not.
The problem is that a simple polish job is just fine, but too many go that little extra bit and slightly change the angle of the ramp or, as mentioned above, undercut the lip of the barrel.
Let me ask this- Why do you want to do this?
Answer that and we'll come up with a better answer.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Holy shit you guys this is just polishing the ramp. It's not rocket surgery for god's sake.
Remove the barrel from your gun. Get a spent casing and some 6-800 grit sandpaper. Tear off a small piece of the sandpaper and wrap it around the casing and polish the ramp vertically. Polish a little, feel, polish a little more until you get the result you get a nice smooth finish. Unless you go completely full retard using this method, it will be impossible to change feed angles, open throats etc etc.
Holy shit you guys this is just polishing the ramp. It's not rocket surgery for god's sake.
Remove the barrel from your gun. Get a spent casing and some 6-800 grit sandpaper. Tear off a small piece of the sandpaper and wrap it around the casing and polish the ramp vertically. Polish a little, feel, polish a little more until you get the result you get a nice smooth finish. Unless you go completely full retard using this method, it will be impossible to change feed angles, open throats etc etc.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Making the feed ramp shiny will not change much (unless it currently has some nasty grind marks).
It does not take lots of metal removal to make a 1911 style barrel feed reliably, but it does take a proper shape and knowledge of where the round should tip (center) and where it should be relieved (4:30 and 7:30 areas).
I have seen MANY good barrels ruined by gunsmiths (pro and amateur) that continued to grind on the feed ramp thinking that grinding more will make it feed better.
Polish away the tool marks, keep the ramp angle intact (don't round it) and see what happens.
If it doesn't feed the ammo you want 100% take the pistol, magazines and ammo to a GREAT pistol smith for tuning.
Extractor tension, breech face dimensions and finish, magazines all contribute to 100% feeding.
MV
Making the feed ramp shiny will not change much (unless it currently has some nasty grind marks).
It does not take lots of metal removal to make a 1911 style barrel feed reliably, but it does take a proper shape and knowledge of where the round should tip (center) and where it should be relieved (4:30 and 7:30 areas).
I have seen MANY good barrels ruined by gunsmiths (pro and amateur) that continued to grind on the feed ramp thinking that grinding more will make it feed better.
Polish away the tool marks, keep the ramp angle intact (don't round it) and see what happens.
If it doesn't feed the ammo you want 100% take the pistol, magazines and ammo to a GREAT pistol smith for tuning.
Extractor tension, breech face dimensions and finish, magazines all contribute to 100% feeding.
MV
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
A little light polishing on the feed ramp and 12 o clock in the chamber wont hurt, dont get crazy though. Most times the fail to feeds and such are caused and fixed by the extractor. Also, have you tried a different set of magazines?
What makes you think that you need to polish it? Has the gun given you any malfunctions or you just want to polish it?
A little light polishing on the feed ramp and 12 o clock in the chamber wont hurt, dont get crazy though. Most times the fail to feeds and such are caused and fixed by the extractor. Also, have you tried a different set of magazines?
What makes you think that you need to polish it? Has the gun given you any malfunctions or you just want to polish it?
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Polish the ramp, fine but the extractor is always the first place to look on feeding issues.
Polish the ramp, fine but the extractor is always the first place to look on feeding issues.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Amateurs with Dremel tools ruin more guns than anything else.
There is a difference in “polishing the feed-ramp” and “throating” the barrel.
As already stated in the responses, unless you have some bad tool marks or gouges in the current ramp, just polishing it will gain you little to nothing and there are risks. You can f-up the ramp with Cratex points and a Dremel, as the points come in many shapes and grits, from ultra-fine to coarse and if you pick the wrong one and go at it without knowing exactly how to do it, you can change the angle, shorten the base of the ramp and mess up the throat before you know it.
Many so called gunsmiths with little 1911 experience ruin a lot of guns and barrels, and amateurs chances of messing it up are very good. About like going to Vegas and putting it all on 39 black… Odds aren’t good.
If your 1911 is not feeding your favorite hollow point reliably you likely need a proper throating job and should seek out an experienced 1911 smith for that work.
The above said, most folks don’t listen to good advice, so head down to Home Depot get your Dremel during the After Christmas sale and knock yourself out. You can use the money you saved on the Dremel towards a new barrel.
Amateurs with Dremel tools ruin more guns than anything else.
There is a difference in “polishing the feed-ramp” and “throating” the barrel.
As already stated in the responses, unless you have some bad tool marks or gouges in the current ramp, just polishing it will gain you little to nothing and there are risks. You can f-up the ramp with Cratex points and a Dremel, as the points come in many shapes and grits, from ultra-fine to coarse and if you pick the wrong one and go at it without knowing exactly how to do it, you can change the angle, shorten the base of the ramp and mess up the throat before you know it.
Many so called gunsmiths with little 1911 experience ruin a lot of guns and barrels, and amateurs chances of messing it up are very good. About like going to Vegas and putting it all on 39 black… Odds aren’t good.
If your 1911 is not feeding your favorite hollow point reliably you likely need a proper throating job and should seek out an experienced 1911 smith for that work.
The above said, most folks don’t listen to good advice, so head down to Home Depot get your Dremel during the After Christmas sale and knock yourself out. You can use the money you saved on the Dremel towards a new barrel.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
If you are having problems feeding HPs you need to have the barrel ramped and polished this is a pro job.A felt bob and rouge is ok but don't overdo it then clean off all the rouge.
If you are having problems feeding HPs you need to have the barrel ramped and polished this is a pro job.A felt bob and rouge is ok but don't overdo it then clean off all the rouge.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Magazines are generally the main cause of feeding issues. Which I'm sure that you are aware of. Break-in periods are also a part of life for some 1911's... so you may be over reacting.
I wouldn't mess with it unless it's a low-end 1911 that you are prepared to do damage to.
Magazines are generally the main cause of feeding issues. Which I'm sure that you are aware of. Break-in periods are also a part of life for some 1911's... so you may be over reacting.
I wouldn't mess with it unless it's a low-end 1911 that you are prepared to do damage to.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Ok, so I have more nos than yes. I've already had it at a smith when the extractor broke, so nothing should be wrong with the tension. I didn't even think to ask about the ramp to be polished. It just has trouble feeding hollow points and flat points regardless of magazine. Thanks guys.
Ok, so I have more nos than yes. I've already had it at a smith when the extractor broke, so nothing should be wrong with the tension. I didn't even think to ask about the ramp to be polished. It just has trouble feeding hollow points and flat points regardless of magazine. Thanks guys.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Math Ninja</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, so I have more nos than yes. I've already had it at a smith when the extractor broke, so nothing should be wrong with the tension. I didn't even think to ask about the ramp to be polished. It just has trouble feeding hollow points and flat points regardless of magazine. Thanks guys. </div></div>
You have answered your own question magazines are different between ball and HPs if you wish to shoot HPs find a great <span style="font-weight: bold">pistol smith</span> and have it throated and ramped.The 1911 was designed for 230gr ball it needs to be tuned for other weights and profiles the recoil spring dose as well.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Math Ninja</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, so I have more nos than yes. I've already had it at a smith when the extractor broke, so nothing should be wrong with the tension. I didn't even think to ask about the ramp to be polished. It just has trouble feeding hollow points and flat points regardless of magazine. Thanks guys. </div></div>
You have answered your own question magazines are different between ball and HPs if you wish to shoot HPs find a great <span style="font-weight: bold">pistol smith</span> and have it throated and ramped.The 1911 was designed for 230gr ball it needs to be tuned for other weights and profiles the recoil spring dose as well.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
if your going to do it just remember to maintain feed ramp angle, keep a 1/32" gap between the feed ramp and reciver and GO SLOW removing as little matterial as possible!
if your going to do it just remember to maintain feed ramp angle, keep a 1/32" gap between the feed ramp and reciver and GO SLOW removing as little matterial as possible!
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Just found this thread. Have it done by someone that really knows what they are doing. I replace barrels all they time after the Dremel meisters have done their handy work.
Just found this thread. Have it done by someone that really knows what they are doing. I replace barrels all they time after the Dremel meisters have done their handy work.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Having built a few, if all you want to do is POLISH the ramp
a felt bob and some compound and have a good time. IF you f up the feed ramp with felt and polish then you deserve to buy a new barrel.
If you are talking about throating it then get more info than you are here and study A LOT.
as others have mentioned there are other things to a 1911 feeding
no offense but how do you know the extractor is tuned correctly just because a gunsmith did it?
Larry
Having built a few, if all you want to do is POLISH the ramp
a felt bob and some compound and have a good time. IF you f up the feed ramp with felt and polish then you deserve to buy a new barrel.
If you are talking about throating it then get more info than you are here and study A LOT.
as others have mentioned there are other things to a 1911 feeding
no offense but how do you know the extractor is tuned correctly just because a gunsmith did it?
Larry
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Math Ninja</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, so I have more nos than yes. I've already had it at a smith when the extractor broke, so nothing should be wrong with the tension. I didn't even think to ask about the ramp to be polished. It just has trouble feeding hollow points and flat points regardless of magazine. Thanks guys. </div></div>
A lot of average gunsmiths just pull an axtactor out of its plastic bag and slide it in. They dont prep it or tension it.
If your 1911 is a basic model such as the Springfield 1911-A1, they are mil-spec and generally not "throated" for feeding hollow points and flat points. So, if this is the case you will need to get the barrel throated and i wouldnt try that at home.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Math Ninja</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, so I have more nos than yes. I've already had it at a smith when the extractor broke, so nothing should be wrong with the tension. I didn't even think to ask about the ramp to be polished. It just has trouble feeding hollow points and flat points regardless of magazine. Thanks guys. </div></div>
A lot of average gunsmiths just pull an axtactor out of its plastic bag and slide it in. They dont prep it or tension it.
If your 1911 is a basic model such as the Springfield 1911-A1, they are mil-spec and generally not "throated" for feeding hollow points and flat points. So, if this is the case you will need to get the barrel throated and i wouldnt try that at home.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Larrys1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having built a few, if all you want to do is POLISH the ramp
a felt bob and some compound and have a good time. IF you f up the feed ramp with felt and polish then you deserve to buy a new barrel.
If you are talking about throating it then get more info than you are here and study A LOT.
as others have mentioned there are other things to a 1911 feeding
no offense but how do you know the extractor is tuned correctly just because a gunsmith did it?
Larry
</div></div>
I don't know for sure if they did tune it or not, I just assumed it was since I hadn't had any problems with it since other than minor feeding issues of the hp/fn bullets. It feeds them most of the time, just not all the time.
I guess a better question would be if polishing a feed ramp will make a difference. It it really won't make much difference, then I'll just stick to ball ammo.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Larrys1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having built a few, if all you want to do is POLISH the ramp
a felt bob and some compound and have a good time. IF you f up the feed ramp with felt and polish then you deserve to buy a new barrel.
If you are talking about throating it then get more info than you are here and study A LOT.
as others have mentioned there are other things to a 1911 feeding
no offense but how do you know the extractor is tuned correctly just because a gunsmith did it?
Larry
</div></div>
I don't know for sure if they did tune it or not, I just assumed it was since I hadn't had any problems with it since other than minor feeding issues of the hp/fn bullets. It feeds them most of the time, just not all the time.
I guess a better question would be if polishing a feed ramp will make a difference. It it really won't make much difference, then I'll just stick to ball ammo.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
"My experience"
Polishing a feedramp will "Smooth operation" it wont "FIX" most feeding problems.
Throating will absolutely make a difference.....
Done correctly it will feed almost anything (personally Ive never been able to get one to reliably feed empty cases or 155gr LSWC..... course Ive never really had that as my goal either"
Done incorrectly you have a very expensive paperweight.
Larry
Oh and define "Minor feeding issues" 1 per mag, 1 per 50, 1 per 100
etc
"My experience"
Polishing a feedramp will "Smooth operation" it wont "FIX" most feeding problems.
Throating will absolutely make a difference.....
Done correctly it will feed almost anything (personally Ive never been able to get one to reliably feed empty cases or 155gr LSWC..... course Ive never really had that as my goal either"
Done incorrectly you have a very expensive paperweight.
Larry
Oh and define "Minor feeding issues" 1 per mag, 1 per 50, 1 per 100
etc
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Minor feeding issues I would consider 1 per mag, not necessarily the last one in the mag either.
Minor feeding issues I would consider 1 per mag, not necessarily the last one in the mag either.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">With proper attention you can achieve the ability to feed empty cases from the magazine.</div></div>But it's the live rounds that are giving him the problem.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">With proper attention you can achieve the ability to feed empty cases from the magazine.</div></div>But it's the live rounds that are giving him the problem.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Math Ninja</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Minor feeding issues I would consider 1 per mag, not necessarily the last one in the mag either. </div></div>
With a carry or comp gun this would be a major league deal.
IMHO tool marks that you can buff out with out changing any geometry shouldn't cause malfunctions - really is a light tool mark the source of the issue? If not you have something or a combination of somethings going on. If they are significant tool marks - get a new barrel.
Good luck
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Math Ninja</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Minor feeding issues I would consider 1 per mag, not necessarily the last one in the mag either. </div></div>
With a carry or comp gun this would be a major league deal.
IMHO tool marks that you can buff out with out changing any geometry shouldn't cause malfunctions - really is a light tool mark the source of the issue? If not you have something or a combination of somethings going on. If they are significant tool marks - get a new barrel.
Good luck
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
No this is not a carry or comp gun. If anything it would be a home defense gun, but I'd keep ball ammo in it so as to not have feeding issues. I mainly want to get it to shoot flat nose because I can find and buy them a little cheaper.
No this is not a carry or comp gun. If anything it would be a home defense gun, but I'd keep ball ammo in it so as to not have feeding issues. I mainly want to get it to shoot flat nose because I can find and buy them a little cheaper.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
This is not an amateur dremeling primary, more of just my opinion on what I would not do with a dremel. If a gun really needs a serious throat and polish only a known quantity 1911 smith will do and I have used them often. Yeah it's 100 bucks you'd rather not spend, but less than a boogered up frame or barrel. After 30 years of getting finicky 1911s to feed and watching smiths polish and throat, there are still only two areas I will consider polishing with regard to feeding problems. I will polish the lower side of the extractor in the rim groove (lightly). If that doesn't work I will dustoff (with dremel) the throat area of the barrel only if there is a hard edge for the round to go over into chamber. Again I just touch the hard edge. To keep it on the safe side I like to have a barrel that has been well throated by a pro sitting next to the one I am doing for comparison. If a light touch doesn't work I won't go any further. The next stop is a professional. BUT way before I get out the dremel in the first place, I would think about this: Flat nose bullets are a little harder to feed IMO. Try ball shaped hollowpoints. Likewise new unbroken in, unlubed,or tight rail 1911s can do their share to prevent feeding. 1911s that have a shorter barrel length than standard Govt. Model 5 inch will hiccup more. Worn out recoil springs, rough breech faces, improperly tuned extractors,tight barrel bushing fit and a myriad of other problems unrelated to dremeling can be causing a problem. For sure set aside the GI magazines and get a seven round Wilson. A stiff wrist when shooting is a must for feeding and costs you nothing. Dremeling limited to the above has (sometimes) worked for me but if you are new to all this, and the non dremel fixes don't work get thee to a 1911 smith (first)and watch close. A 1911 ain't no Glock when it comes to feeding but once you get it dialed in they just keep chugging along. Hope this long homespun tome helps.
This is not an amateur dremeling primary, more of just my opinion on what I would not do with a dremel. If a gun really needs a serious throat and polish only a known quantity 1911 smith will do and I have used them often. Yeah it's 100 bucks you'd rather not spend, but less than a boogered up frame or barrel. After 30 years of getting finicky 1911s to feed and watching smiths polish and throat, there are still only two areas I will consider polishing with regard to feeding problems. I will polish the lower side of the extractor in the rim groove (lightly). If that doesn't work I will dustoff (with dremel) the throat area of the barrel only if there is a hard edge for the round to go over into chamber. Again I just touch the hard edge. To keep it on the safe side I like to have a barrel that has been well throated by a pro sitting next to the one I am doing for comparison. If a light touch doesn't work I won't go any further. The next stop is a professional. BUT way before I get out the dremel in the first place, I would think about this: Flat nose bullets are a little harder to feed IMO. Try ball shaped hollowpoints. Likewise new unbroken in, unlubed,or tight rail 1911s can do their share to prevent feeding. 1911s that have a shorter barrel length than standard Govt. Model 5 inch will hiccup more. Worn out recoil springs, rough breech faces, improperly tuned extractors,tight barrel bushing fit and a myriad of other problems unrelated to dremeling can be causing a problem. For sure set aside the GI magazines and get a seven round Wilson. A stiff wrist when shooting is a must for feeding and costs you nothing. Dremeling limited to the above has (sometimes) worked for me but if you are new to all this, and the non dremel fixes don't work get thee to a 1911 smith (first)and watch close. A 1911 ain't no Glock when it comes to feeding but once you get it dialed in they just keep chugging along. Hope this long homespun tome helps.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
I havn't tried the ball shaped hollow points. I also havn't seen any any in town, just regular ones. Between Wal-Mart and a crappy Gander Mountain I don't have much of an ammo variety. As for the magazine, I can't use a Wilson once since I have a Para. That said, I still don't believe its a mag problem because it happens with all my mags and as I said its really not too big of a deal for me. I can always stick to ball ammo, it feeds those perfectly.
I havn't tried the ball shaped hollow points. I also havn't seen any any in town, just regular ones. Between Wal-Mart and a crappy Gander Mountain I don't have much of an ammo variety. As for the magazine, I can't use a Wilson once since I have a Para. That said, I still don't believe its a mag problem because it happens with all my mags and as I said its really not too big of a deal for me. I can always stick to ball ammo, it feeds those perfectly.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
What the hell are you guys using to polish with??
The little white felt polshing bits that come with a dremel aren't taking any metal off ..... they are just buffing to a mirror polish. A little polishing compound with a felt wheel isn't going to take of any metal at all. It's almost idiot proof.
What the hell are you guys using to polish with??
The little white felt polshing bits that come with a dremel aren't taking any metal off ..... they are just buffing to a mirror polish. A little polishing compound with a felt wheel isn't going to take of any metal at all. It's almost idiot proof.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
I would be very reluctant to take any power tools to a gun, even though I mostly know what I'm doing and have otherwise had no issues with fitting parts. The chamber area must be within a fairly narrow set of specs for reliable feeding. I also second the comments about breech face, extractor tension and prep, magazines, and feed geometry all being important.
Most 1911s with feed issues are NOT related to the frame ramp not being a "mirror" polish. It does not need to be that smooth for reliable feeding. If it did, the gun would never run when dirty. Many people think that the only way to get a 1911 to feed is to polish the ramp, but in most cases, this is a band-aid for geometry issues that are not easily corrected with a dremel tool. If the feed ramp is already at the wrong angle, polishing may decrease the issues, but if the underlying problem is a geometry and/or magazine (or extractor) issue, no amount of polishing will make it run 100%.
Also, if this is a factory gun with a warranty, I highly recommend that you take advantage of that, instead of trying to fix it yourself, because if they screw it up, they will fix it at their expense. If you destroy the frame of your gun, fixing it will be very costly and involve replacing at least the frame, if not the barrel as well.
I also second getting that book. It's a great book.
I would be very reluctant to take any power tools to a gun, even though I mostly know what I'm doing and have otherwise had no issues with fitting parts. The chamber area must be within a fairly narrow set of specs for reliable feeding. I also second the comments about breech face, extractor tension and prep, magazines, and feed geometry all being important.
Most 1911s with feed issues are NOT related to the frame ramp not being a "mirror" polish. It does not need to be that smooth for reliable feeding. If it did, the gun would never run when dirty. Many people think that the only way to get a 1911 to feed is to polish the ramp, but in most cases, this is a band-aid for geometry issues that are not easily corrected with a dremel tool. If the feed ramp is already at the wrong angle, polishing may decrease the issues, but if the underlying problem is a geometry and/or magazine (or extractor) issue, no amount of polishing will make it run 100%.
Also, if this is a factory gun with a warranty, I highly recommend that you take advantage of that, instead of trying to fix it yourself, because if they screw it up, they will fix it at their expense. If you destroy the frame of your gun, fixing it will be very costly and involve replacing at least the frame, if not the barrel as well.
I also second getting that book. It's a great book.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
well first its most likely not a feedramp issue.... its a para
since he made the comment about the mags I have to assume its a high cap para.
chances are it aint the ramp
HOW is it jamming exactly. what kind of jam?
Lets go from there.
Larry
well first its most likely not a feedramp issue.... its a para
since he made the comment about the mags I have to assume its a high cap para.
chances are it aint the ramp
HOW is it jamming exactly. what kind of jam?
Lets go from there.
Larry
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
So much talk on the internet regarding polishing 1911 feed ramps to cure a feeding problem. A huge percentage of 1911 feeding problems only happen when using hollow point ammo.The 1911 was NOT designed to utilize HP ammo. I understand that many shooters like to use HP. My question would be...why? Are many 1911 users in danger of being attacked by large herds of elephants? The whole idea behind using a .45 is its stopping power. Ever see the damage a .45 will cause without using HP? Do people think you can hit a live target with a .45 FMJ and the target will keep on coming? I just don't get the need.
So much talk on the internet regarding polishing 1911 feed ramps to cure a feeding problem. A huge percentage of 1911 feeding problems only happen when using hollow point ammo.The 1911 was NOT designed to utilize HP ammo. I understand that many shooters like to use HP. My question would be...why? Are many 1911 users in danger of being attacked by large herds of elephants? The whole idea behind using a .45 is its stopping power. Ever see the damage a .45 will cause without using HP? Do people think you can hit a live target with a .45 FMJ and the target will keep on coming? I just don't get the need.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Polishing the feed ramp may help but, it may be something else as others mentioned above. You may want to change the recoil spring as well. If the spring is too heavy or too light (compared to your other rounds) it may cause feeding issues. The slide may be bouncing off the back too hard or not going back fully which both can cause feeding issues.
Also as mentioned, the extractor may be not adjusted correctly or polished on the bottom edge.
FYI, all my 1911's (9 so far) feed hollow points, & Elmer Keith style 255 gr semi-wad cutters without issue. Most hollow points are the same shape as the round nose bullets. The 255's can be buggers with many guns though...
Polishing the feed ramp may help but, it may be something else as others mentioned above. You may want to change the recoil spring as well. If the spring is too heavy or too light (compared to your other rounds) it may cause feeding issues. The slide may be bouncing off the back too hard or not going back fully which both can cause feeding issues.
Also as mentioned, the extractor may be not adjusted correctly or polished on the bottom edge.
FYI, all my 1911's (9 so far) feed hollow points, & Elmer Keith style 255 gr semi-wad cutters without issue. Most hollow points are the same shape as the round nose bullets. The 255's can be buggers with many guns though...
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Polishing the ramp may improve feeding but most times it is related to another issues.
Chip McCormick mags solve a lot of feeding issues. I have resolved quite a few people's problems by recommending them.
Another problem can be a polished chamber, if the chamber is too well finished the brass can vacuum form to the sides of the chamber. The extra force required to extract the case causes timing problems. This will decelerate the slide and strip the slide of its momentum to properly strip the next round. It is similar to having two pieces of glass stick together.
Think of timing the gun as the overall solution. If the timing and springs are correct, a little roughness on the ramp should not slow the round.
Having a barrel with chamber flutes like an Schuemann AET will keep the case from forming on the walls or using a heavy sandpaper to rough up the sides will also work.
Polishing the ramp may improve feeding but most times it is related to another issues.
Chip McCormick mags solve a lot of feeding issues. I have resolved quite a few people's problems by recommending them.
Another problem can be a polished chamber, if the chamber is too well finished the brass can vacuum form to the sides of the chamber. The extra force required to extract the case causes timing problems. This will decelerate the slide and strip the slide of its momentum to properly strip the next round. It is similar to having two pieces of glass stick together.
Think of timing the gun as the overall solution. If the timing and springs are correct, a little roughness on the ramp should not slow the round.
Having a barrel with chamber flutes like an Schuemann AET will keep the case from forming on the walls or using a heavy sandpaper to rough up the sides will also work.
Re: Polishing a 1911 feed ramp?
Little bit of polishing won't hurt a thing. Cratex wheels are your friend (even on an 'evil' Dremel).
American Gunsmithing Institute has good basic "gunsmithing," videos that you can follow on how to do this. Gene Shuey is the instructor and he builds a decent gun.
Rich
Little bit of polishing won't hurt a thing. Cratex wheels are your friend (even on an 'evil' Dremel).
American Gunsmithing Institute has good basic "gunsmithing," videos that you can follow on how to do this. Gene Shuey is the instructor and he builds a decent gun.
Rich
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