Precision ar-10 build questions

[MDWeaponry]

Hi guys, I’m new here and New to the long range shooting scene. I recently purchased a palmetto state pa-10 to use as a platform to turn it into a decent long range rig. I know no matter what I buy it’s not going to make up for a lack of skill, but I would like to be confident that any misses are me and not from the platform.

Currently I have a viper pst gen 2 5x25 with a cant bubble level for the optic and a Harris 6x9 swivel bipod and am looking for a reasonably priced drop in barrel that is capable of sub moa groups if I do my part.

So my questions are, should I stick with .308 or should I make the jump to 6.5 creedmoore?
what barrel maker should I go with? I read a lot of posts on a lot of different forums but everyone has so many different opinions it’s hard to decide.
I would like a 24 inch with a if I stick with .308 but then again I’m new to this and am just basing everything off of things I’ve read.

I’m leaning towards criterion, as they have what I’m looking for at a good price point, but I’ve also heard a lot of good about ballistic advantage and many others. Black hole weaponry has a 24 inch drop in but it’s a 1:8.5 twist and I’m not sure how well that would do velocity wise Being such a fast twist. Krieger has a pretty good price on a drop in, but it’s only 20 inches and more then I wanted to spend which makes my choice tough. If they had it in 24 inch I would probably jump on it though.

How much velocity will I generally gain with the extra 4 inches?

Are there Any other things I need to consider for this build?

Thanks in advance for any help and I apologize if my questions are tough to answer or seem ridiculous, I just want some help with all this as it’s a new world to me.

 

[padom]

22" 6.5m, +2 Gas, Craddock Precision. They can do you a Criterion or Bartlein. You want the best, get a Bartlein. Adjustable gas block, get a high pressure JP or Rubber City bolt and have it headspaced to the barrel.

20" if your going 308

 

[NukeMMC]

When I built my first, it was in 308. Since then, I built a Mega Maten and have a 20" 1:10" Proof stainless 308, rifle-length gas upper for no other reason than familiarity with the round and its ballistics, and if the fecal matter ever hits the air circulator, it's a go-to.
I also built a 22", 6.5cm, +2" gas JP 1:8" upper for it for playing at 800+. Both uppers have SLR gas blocks and Hellfire brakes. My .30 TBAC Ultra 7 has a Hellfire adapter also. Both uppers are hammers.

Advice sound familiar?

 

[kenny1773]

I have a 22" Ballistics Advantage on my AR10 6.5 CM build (barrel has a sub moa guarantee)

with off the shelf hornady eld 140gr, I **CAN** shoot sub MOA with it

but I would more call it roughly an MOA gun and not a sub MOA gun, if I am looking at 10 shot groups with this ammo (you can blame the ammo and not the barrel)

The price was right, I got one hell of a deal on a complete upper that included this barrel, no regrets, but you have to ask yourself how accurate do you want it? and how much are you willing to spend?

I have shot 1000 yard targets with mine, no problem, slightly rapid fire even

info on fps vs barrel length

6.5 Creedmoor- Effect of Barrel Length on Velocity: Cutting up a Creedmoor!

Since its introduction by Hornady in 2007, the 6.5 Creedmoor (sometimes shortened to Creed) has established a strong foothold in the US rifle market. The 6.5 Creedmoor balances the excellent exter…

rifleshooter.com

I am sure a Krieger barrel is more accurate, but it also has a much higher cost.

 

[MDWeaponry]

Dang I wish I had the cash to just build one in each caliber haha.
I like the better trajectory of the 6.5, but I’m torn between the trajectory of the 6.5 and the harder hitting and easier to find ammo of a .308, especially in a shtf type of scenario.

Why 20 inch for .308 vs a 24 inch? Is it ballistically better somehow?

I don’t care about the weight, as it’s already really heavy as it is. If I ended up carrying it for some odd reason its gonna suck either way, so I want it to suck with the best ballistics I can get out of it haha.

What are the wait times for craddock precision? I’m currently in southern commifornia at my main address, but I spend a lot of my time at a cabin in the National forest with no shipping address or way to order anything, so time is of the essence in getting this build done before I head back up north which is why I’m looking for something basically drop in.

Is it really necessary to spend an extra 200 on a headspaced bolt assembly when the bolt and barrel are both dpms, or do you think I could get by without it? That signicantly increases the cost of the new barrel at least for my wallet.

I do plan on an adjustable gas block, just waiting on that till I get a barrel so I know which profile to get.

Thanks again everyone

 

[MDWeaponry]

Here’s the rifle as it sits by the way, nothing special, just a regular pa-10 with a 20 inch ss barrel and free float mlok, with an enhanced polished trigger(not terrible but not great either),
A magpul ctr stock and magpul grip.

 

[NukeMMC]

If you want the ballistic advantage of the 6.5, you need the extra couple inches for the added velocity. You gain/lose about 25fps per inch of barrel.
A 20" 308 barrel just WORKS. Mike R at Tac Ops prefers 20-22" for his 308 barrels and his results are undeniable. The larger bore may prefer that length barrel and going longer has diminishing returns for the round's overall performance in a gas gun.
The extra $200 is worth it IMHO. Having a quality vendor provide you a properly headspaced bolt/barrel is a confidence boost. One less thing to worry about.

 

[MDWeaponry]

Alright I guess I’ll have to cough up the extra cash for a headspaced bolt to go with it. I would hate to get to the middle of nowhere and have issues with a cheap palmetto bolt. Criterion offers a headspaced jp high pressure bolt, and jp has drop in barrels that come with a bolt as well. Not sure if Krieger offers a headspaced bolt with it but that routes probably out for me because that’s basically 800 bucks for a barrel and a bolt after tax which is a pretty high cost for me to swallow unless it’s just massive leaps and bounds ahead of the other options.

Anyone have experience with criterion or jp barrels? Any other barrels you guys would recommend?

 

[rpoL98]

had some of the same question previously.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/1st-round-of-large-frame-questions.6949625/#post-7817399

 

[The DFC]

I would get both-but 308 first. Good learning platform, good caliber to have as pointed out, and long lived barrels vs. 6.5 which is a barrel burner.

 

[NukeMMC]

Anyone have experience with criterion or jp barrels? Any other barrels you guys would recommend?

My first shots from my JP 6.5 with 140eldm ammo:

I would get both-but 308 first. Good learning platform, good caliber to have as pointed out, and long lived barrels vs. 6.5 which is a barrel burner.

Agree! A 308 barrel can last 6500rds and more. Good luck getting more than 3500 from a 6.5.

 

[Primus]

I don't get it. You want help because you are a novice but then make excuses to ignore what people are telling you.

Sure go ahead and build a gun without a headspaced bolt. It's not like that bolt is the only thing separating a 50k psi explosion a few inches from your face.

Everything you have asked has been discussed here dozens of time. A simple search would yield every awnser. But nope that's too much work.

 

[sam4886]

If you're putting the barrel on yourself, a new bolt isn't necessary. Checking the headspace on an AR yourself is super easy, especially if you've got the barrel off the gun. I built from scratch, so I bought a JP bolt, but you can probably save yourself some cash on that.

For a barrel, just buy what you can afford. 308 or 6.5... Take your pick. I've got both and enjoy both, you will too.

Building an AR can be overwhelming. There are so many options that your head spins. Try to look at things as tiers; top tier, mid tier, crap tier. Pick a tier that works with your budget and grab something in that group. Stressing over an inch of barrel or a half inch twist difference isn't going to make a difference.

 

[stevieb92]

I've built 3 LR-308 style rifles (2 6.5 CM and 1 .308 Win) and never had a bolt headspaced to the barrel. I've always checked at assembly and each was good using my PTG gages. My 2 6.5 CMs have JP HP bolts with BA barrels (both are sub moa using handloads) and the 308 has a brownells nitride bcg with small firing pin like the JPs. The 308 also wears a BA barrel but I would consider it barely a moa barrel.

 

[padom]

Agree! A 308 barrel can last 6500rds and more. Good luck getting more than 3500 from a 6.5.

3500-4000 for a 6.5cm depending on the type of shooting you do is typical. That is far from a barrel burner. Look at 6cm, 22cm, etc. Those are barrel burners

 

[benchmstr]

308 and 6.5 aren’t much different until 600 yards....stick with cheaper bullets

Bench

 

[MDWeaponry]

Thanks for all the help everyone! I will stick with .308 for the reasons mentioned here. An extra 2000+ rounds of barrel life sounds pretty nice. I will have the opportunity to shoot 1000 yards or more as a friend has some property up north and is working on a range which is why I wa tempted by the 6.5 but it seems like the .308 will do everything the 6.5 will do with a bit more work on my end.

Primus, Yes I am a novice an asked for help because I have searched many times and couldn’t come up with a conclusive answer. I always seem to end up with a new question when searching. I already stated that I would get the headspaced bolt if it’s necessary, I’ve just never had issues with the ar-15 platform.

Sam, I would be doing the barrel install myself. Not sure what to think as now I’m hearing two different things, but if the headspaced bolt isn’t truly necessary, that would tempt me to go with the Krieger barrel as a Krieger barrel without a bolt is the same price as a criterion/jp with a bolt.

Once again thanks for all the help so far everyone, I really appreciate it.

 

[Primus]

You created this account yesterday and have not even attempted to research any of this.

I think someone with little to no experience should jump right in and start building large frame ARs. Nothing can go wrong because all parts are compatible and built to same spec. You should absolutely go with the obsolete round, not only will it recoil more, require more elevation, let the wind push it around making shots that much harder at range, you can shoot cheap steel case through your premium barrel. It's not like you would be spending $3-5k in ammo alone before the barrel is toast, .308 match ammo is actually more expensive than 6.5cm. more expensive means more betterer. And don't worry about any of those stupid tools like torque wrenches and punches, all you need is the $10 453 piece toolkit from harbor freight. Becuase after all, sticking a $600 barrel on the cheapest and most poorly designed/built Large frame receiver set is guarrenteed to result in success.

I look forward to your troubleshooting threads as a source of entertainment, assuming you actually own guns and can actually afford this.

 

[Spblademaker]

@MDWeaponry don’t forget to ask @Culpeper for a recommendation on a muzzle device and @Primus for his favorite adjustable gas block.

 

[N-C]

I’m with 308

 

[N-C]

Many many people; I want the 6.5 cm is flat can go 1000+ Yards
But how many are they really do the 1000+ yards shooting

 

[The DFC]

Thanks for all the help everyone! I will stick with .308 for the reasons mentioned here. An extra 2000+ rounds of barrel life sounds pretty nice. I will have the opportunity to shoot 1000 yards or more as a friend has some property up north and is working on a range which is why I wa tempted by the 6.5 but it seems like the .308 will do everything the 6.5 will do with a bit more work on my end.

Primus, Yes I am a novice an asked for help because I have searched many times and couldn’t come up with a conclusive answer. I always seem to end up with a new question when searching. I already stated that I would get the headspaced bolt if it’s necessary, I’ve just never had issues with the ar-15 platform.

Sam, I would be doing the barrel install myself. Not sure what to think as now I’m hearing two different things, but if the headspaced bolt isn’t truly necessary, that would tempt me to go with the Krieger barrel as a Krieger barrel without a bolt is the same price as a criterion/jp with a bolt.

Once again thanks for all the help so far everyone, I really appreciate it.

Do yourself a favor and put Primus on ignore like most do here.

 

[The DFC]

3500-4000 for a 6.5cm depending on the type of shooting you do is typical. That is far from a barrel burner. Look at 6cm, 22cm, etc. Those are barrel burners

I've always read 2500ish for a 6.5-Hornady ELD type stuff. I've never burned one out myself so I'm only going off what I read on forums.

 

[MDWeaponry]

You created this account yesterday and have not even attempted to research any of this.

I think someone with little to no experience should jump right in and start building large frame ARs. Nothing can go wrong because all parts are compatible and built to same spec. You should absolutely go with the obsolete round, not only will it recoil more, require more elevation, let the wind push it around making shots that much harder at range, you can shoot cheap steel case through your premium barrel. It's not like you would be spending $3-5k in ammo alone before the barrel is toast, .308 match ammo is actually more expensive than 6.5cm. more expensive means more betterer. And don't worry about any of those stupid tools like torque wrenches and punches, all you need is the $10 453 piece toolkit from harbor freight. Becuase after all, sticking a $600 barrel on the cheapest and most poorly designed/built Large frame receiver set is guarrenteed to result in success.

I look forward to your troubleshooting threads as a source of entertainment, assuming you actually own guns and can actually afford this.

Just because I created an account yesterday doesn’t mean I haven’t spent months researching. I have plenty of firearms experience and have built ar platforms before. I also built a fully automatic .50 caliber air weapon using a new technology with the fastest fire rate of any single barrel weapon in the world, and with a fire rate up to 9600 rounds per minute, it’s faster then a mini gun all out of a single barrel. The technology is patented in several countries and I’m working on a licensing deal with the patent. Just because I’m new to the long distance world doesn’t make me new.

I would never shoot steel cased but I would shoot cheaper brass cases for short range practice/fun and conserve the match grade for longer range and serious practice.
The reason I went with the “cheap poorly designed receiver set” is because I wanted to spend the extra cash on a decent barrel, decent scope, and ammo for practice. And since 90 percent of the ar platforms accuracy is based on the barrel and it’s install, I figured I couldn’t go too wrong with it especially if I true the receiver face with a lapping tool and bed the upper and lower together.

I have torque wrenches in ft/lbs and in/lbs, I have good punches, an armorers wrench and probably have just as many quality tools as you do as I regularly work on vehicles. I will admit I have a harbor freight Allen wrench set I bought specifically to put the grip on because my regular ones weren’t long enough to reach the grip screw, and that set was about 10 bucks so bravo.

Thanks for the helpful advice primus, I really appreciate it.

 

[Primus]

Many many people; I want the 6.5 cm is flat can go 1000+ Yards
But how many are they really do the 1000+ yards shooting

There is litterly no drawback:
less recoil
Better ballistics
Same or cheaper match ammo
Availability in par with .308
Better selection of factory high performance projectiles.
More versatility
Increased first round hit probability.

Even at 500 yards it will shoot flater, less wind deflection and have less recoil making it easier to shoot with essentially the same energy as a .308.

 

[N-C]

Just like to show this thanks

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor vs 6.5×55 Swede: Choosing The Best 6.5

https://thebiggamehuntingblog.com/260-remington-vs-6-5-creedmoor-vs-6-5x55-swede/

 

[N-C]

Results

308 Winchester Barrel length in inches versus Muzzle velocity in feet-per-second (ft/sec) Rifleshooter.com
Barrel length	Winchester 147 FMJ	IMI Samson 7.62 150 FMJ	Federal 168 Gold Medal	Winchester 180 PP
28	2965	2823	2706	2632
27	2962	2800	2697	2607
26	2955	2801	2673	2597
25	2917	2769	2659	2585
24	2909	2766	2635	2553
23	2877	2744	2618	2553
22	2837	2718	2597	2527
21	2807	2683	2580	2507
20	2804	2679	2565	2478
19	2757	2634	2532	2441
18	2739	2595	2523	2411
17	2707	2577	2481	2401
16.5	2682	2561	2466	2373
AVG velocity loss fps/inch	24.6	22.8	20.9	22.5

The data presented as a line chart

 

[Mark Coffey]

If your goal is precision shooting, I would encourage you to buy a good trigger before you buy a barrel... Barrels are important. But, If you have a 7-9 lbs mil-spec Trigger. You will still struggle to shoot accurately, even with a sub MOA barrel.

 

[N-C]

Hi quality upper and lower match set , hi quality barrel , good quality trigger , and other ~~~

 

[MDWeaponry]

If your goal is precision shooting, I would encourage you to buy a good trigger before you buy a barrel... Barrels are important. But, If you have a 7-9 lbs mil-spec Trigger. You will still struggle to shoot accurately, even with a sub MOA barrel.

The trigger is an enhanced polished trigger, it’s leaps and bounds better then mil spec, but leaps and bounds behind a match trigger. I plan on something better in the future. Maybe it’s a dumb thought but The way I see it, I can get better with a mediocre trigger, but the best trigger in the world won’t make a bad barrel shoot well, so the barrel is first on my list, then the trigger.

 

[MDWeaponry]

Hi quality upper and lower match set , hi quality barrel , good quality trigger , and other ~~~

Well I don’t have a high quality receiver set, it’s a gen 2 upper and lower set from palmetto. It’s not the tightest fit ever but it’s not very loose and only has a very slight bit of play. I have accuwedges for it temporarily but the end goal is to bed them together and I will true the face of the upper where the barrel threads on before the new barrel goes on.

 

[Spblademaker]

The trigger is an enhanced polished trigger, it’s leaps and bounds better then mil spec, but leaps and bounds behind a match trigger. I plan on something better in the future. Maybe it’s a dumb thought but The way I see it, I can get better with a mediocre trigger, but the best trigger in the world won’t make a bad barrel shoot well, so the barrel is first on my list, then the trigger.

The Larue MBT is very good for the price point. Take a look at those

 

[The DFC]

The Larue MBT is very good for the price point. Take a look at those

Yep-Not at all a fanboy but Larue MBT is a nice trigger-have them on all my rigs. Now they have the straight bow if that's your thing and also single stage version of each. Quality stuff IMO.

 

[MDWeaponry]

The Larue MBT is very good for the price point. Take a look at those

Thanks! I looked them up and I’m probably gonna give it a shot. At 87 bucks that’s a steal for a decent trigger compared to the 200+ I see others going for

 

[Primus]

Got 2 more in today. In all honesty they feel as good or better than a SSA at a fraction of the cost. They are a bit on the heavy side but that's not an issue for a DMR or hunting gun.

If cost isnt an issue I would rank them:
Hi Speed
KAC 2 stage ( newer style)
Larue MBS
SSA / G2S
AR gold/CMC
Most of the other shit on the market.

 

[MDWeaponry]

Got 2 more in today. In all honesty they feel as good or better than a SSA at a fraction of the cost. They are a bit on the heavy side but that's not an issue for a DMR or hunting gun.

If cost isnt an issue I would rank them:
Hi Speed
KAC 2 stage ( newer style)
Larue MBS
SSA / G2S
AR gold/CMC
Most of the other shit on the market.

I’ll definitely be going with the larue in that case. If it can compete with any of those triggers at that price point it’s a steal and worth every penny for sure. Might just order one today before I pick my barrel.

 

[Primus]

I ordered these back in March so you may want to call first to get an idea of lead time. If you can't wait, find a G2S, it's basically a SSA made in a cheaper way with batch instead of individual inspection. They way they are made it's not an issue and they feel the same as a SSA to me. They should be around $140-60.

 

[MDWeaponry]

I ordered these back in March so you may want to call first to get an idea of lead time. If you can't wait, find a G2S, it's basically a SSA made in a cheaper way with batch instead of individual inspection. They way they are made it's not an issue and they feel the same as a SSA to me. They should be around $140-60.

Alright thanks I’ll give them a call. Maybe I’ll get lucky and they’ll have some in stock.
Would you guys recommend single stage or dual stage? Every trigger I’ve ever shot was a single stage so I can’t really judge on which one is better

 

[Primus]

I would recommend a 2 stage. Even on my hard use carbines, I run a 2 stage. Once you use them you won't really want to use anything else. Doesn't matter if it's a SBR or a mk12.


If I had to go single stage, the Wilson TTU would be my first choice.

 

[MDWeaponry]

Alright thanks I’ll go for a 2 stage

 

[stevieb92]

I've been swapping out all my triggers (including Geissele) for the Larue MBT-2S. Combine the Larue trigger with a JP yellow hammer spring and it's a sweet arrangement! I am not a Larue fan, but these triggers are super tough to beat for the price.

 

[N-C]

Timney Trigger AR-10 Competition - 4lb Single Stage

Timney has a large selection of triggers, so you can find the perfect one for your build. If you are building a new AR-10 or just improving the Mil-Spec trigger, the Timney single stage competition trigger is a great option. This AR-10 trigger is very similar to the AR-15, however it has a heavier hammer spring to ensure ignition on harder .308 and 7.62 primers. It is a completely self-contained drop in unit that makes upgrading as simple as driving out the pins on your old trigger and replacing it with this fire control group. This Timney trigger gets rid of the heavy, gritty, and inconsistency of standard triggers and does so with a four-pound trigger pull. The entire line of competition triggers has almost zero overtravel and take-up, resulting in a consistently crisp trigger break. If you are using a .308 for competition, the extremely short reset will help you to pull the trigger faster after recovering from recoil while also making those long-range shots much easier to hit. It features a curved trigger shoe which is highly dependent on shooter preference, however, sometimes it is better to have a more traditional feel. This drop-in fire control group is a great option for those looking to improve their speed and accuracy on the competition line.

 

[bfoosh006]

22" Criterion Hybrid 6.5CM... the 6.5CM cheats side winds far better then a .308.. built it right and I am very happy.



10rds Hornady 140gr American Gunner.. 100yds , benched scoped etc..... guess who flubbed the fliers on both groups... Lol

10rds .308 155gr Hornady American Gunner , FN CHF CL 20", 100yds benched , scoped, etc...

Same thing build 'em right and you'll be happy

Both rifles assm. on PSA uppers and lowers, lapped upper receivers , barrels Loctited in, Adj. GB's ( SLR ) Lantac Muzzle brakes ( both .308 ) Heavy 9.3oz rifle length buffers, .308 Tubbs Flatwire recoil springs. Upper to Lower snug fit.

Both groups produced from freshly cleaned barrels.

 

[MDWeaponry]

22" Criterion Hybrid 6.5CM... the 6.5CM cheats side winds far better then a .308.. built it right and I am very happy.



10rds Hornady 140gr American Gunner.. 100yds , benched scoped etc..... guess who flubbed the fliers on both groups... Lol
View attachment 7135376


10rds .308 155gr Hornady American Gunner , FN CHF CL 20", 100yds benched , scoped, etc...

Same thing build 'em right and you'll be happy

View attachment 7135379

Both rifles assm. on PSA uppers and lowers, lapped upper receivers , barrels Loctited in, Adj. GB's ( SLR ) Lantac Muzzle brakes ( both .308 ) Heavy 9.3oz rifle length buffers, .308 Tubbs Flatwire recoil springs. Upper to Lower snug fit.

Both groups produced from freshly cleaned barrels.
[/QUOTE]

Those are some nice groups! Gives me some hope for my psa build!

I’m still torn between .308 and 6.5 creedmoore. Almost debating on just getting a second upper receiver and making the 6.5 creedmoore the long range and keeping the .308 upper for close range fun. Problem is psa doesn’t have a stripped upper in stock.

I’m pretty sure I’ll be going with a criterion barrel or maybe a drop in shilen depending on their wait times.

Did you buy the matched up bolt with the criterion or did your psa bolt headspace properly?

How did you go about getting the upper and lower a snug fit?
Did you bed it or were you just lucky? I’d like to bed them together but for now I made a custom accuwedge out of brass that wraps around the takedown lug.It takes away 95 percent of the movement and will not compress or degrade with time or heat or move at all so I know it will never cause an issue. i plan to make a thin shim for the pivot pin lug to remove the tiny bit of play remaining in the front.

 

[casualfornow]

22" 6.5m, +2 Gas, Craddock Precision. They can do you a Criterion or Bartlein. You want the best, get a Bartlein. Adjustable gas block, get a high pressure JP or Rubber City bolt and have it headspaced to the barrel.

20" if your going 308

I talked to Paul at Craddock the other day. I don't think his has any Bartlein 6.5 barrel at the moment.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

I've just tuned in on this topic, and by coincidence, I ordered the very same PSA 20" .308 Pa-10 Upper yesterday, along with their PA-10 "Space Cannon(?)" Lower (which looks rather a bit like the lower you're using). I'll be reading along, and making what additions I can as I work this new rifle in another one of my load development projects.

But for right up front, my shooting Buddy has this Upper, too, and he tried some of my IMI 7.62x51 NATO 168gr Razor Core Semi-Auto Match. It processed it very favorably; which is one reason why I chose this Upper.

Some research into my 20" and 24" Grendel suggests that 20" and 24" barrels often share accuracy nodes, and 18" and 22" the same. Maybe the .308 does likewise. Until I can get back out onto the range and confirm this, it may also just be some Internet folks blowin' smoke.

Anyway, my 24" Savage 10FCM .308 likes the IMI, and my Buddy's 20" PA-10 likewise, so I'm counting somewhat on my 20" PA-10 to like it too.

Similarly, the 20" Grendel and 24" Grendel are in line to do come confirmation, too.

I also have handloads to test for all of this, and if they perform as hoped, we'll have some more data to share.

As for shooting steel case, I'm OK with that. I'm not so OK with Bimetallic bullets. But steel case is seldom, if ever, loaded to match loads and specs, and if you seek exceptional accuracy, I'd look elsewhere.

Greg

 

[TACC]

Great info all around, even with some sarcasm added in for some lightheartedness.

Just starting my build with an odin works complete upper 6.5 CM looking forward to any and all info forthcoming.

 

[Peterpan]

For $675 compass lake will turn you a Krieger barrel in 308 6.5 creed or 260 rem and assemble it. You can really beat that. And coming from them you know it was done right.

 

[padom]

You can beat that, by getting a JP barrel which comes WITH their high pressure bolt headsapced to the barrel with firing pin for $660.00.... Or a custom Bartlein from Craddock for $600 without a bolt.. Both are tack drivers.

 

[Peterpan]

You can beat that, by getting a JP barrel which comes WITH their high pressure bolt headsapced to the barrel with firing pin for $660.00.... Or a custom Bartlein from Craddock for $600 without a bolt.. Both are tack drivers.

A Krieger or bartlein from compass lake is just as accurate or more so as anything from Craddock or jp. Also the $675 at compass lake is the assembled price using a Krieger or bartlein tube.