Precision AR: building vs converting vs buying new

[Swift]

I have a CMMG AR with a 16" DPMS A2 flattop in the safe that's been collecting dust since my obsession with precision rifles started. The AR got left behind after I invested in my Savage 308 and most recently 700 SPS Tac in 308.

After learning about the LR308 and other variants, I started considering the cost effectiveness of a semi-automatic precision rifle based off the AR platform.

I have a few options and therein lies my conundrum. I want bang for the buck, but sometimes that means shelling out some greenbacks. Do I buy a varmint/target upper in 5.56 with a 24" stainless bbl, target crown, etc? Do I convert it to a different caliber? Or do I man up and buy an LR308 or maybe an M1A?

A good target upper in 5.56 will only run about $600. Conversion kits can run as high as $1,000 for some calibers which is closing in on 308 territory which is around $1,200. The jump from $1,000 to $1,200 isn't too high, but the jump from $600 to $1k+ is especially when glass is taken into consideration.

I don't need to be able to group 3 inches at 800 yards but to have something that can consistently hit MOA at 100 and reach out to 500-600 if the opportunity arises would be nice. I already load 308 so that would be an added bonus although it's not a big investment to start loading other cartridges.

If I didn't already have an AR sitting here collecting dust this wouldn't be such an issue but I have $700 into this particular rifle and I think it would be a waste to replace it and let it sit in the back of the safe.

 

[GCMxVeGeTa]

Re: Precision AR: building vs converting vs buying new

I say build it. You'll get what you want for a better price. If you can get the stripped upper/lower matched together (really tight fit) then it should be a good foundation for the build.

 

[VJJPunisher]

Re: Precision AR: building vs converting vs buying new

if you build it, they will cum

 

[ORD]

Re: Precision AR: building vs converting vs buying new

+1 on the other comments. You can achieve MOA (and vastly better) accuracy with a quality-barreled .223 upper and maintain that accuracy out to 600yds. I tend to build when it comes to AR's just because you can "have it your way" without settling in any respect on components used in the build. However, with you not seeking a 1/2 MOA upper, every RRA Varmint upper that I have shot (from 16" to 24") has been capable of sub-MOA accuracy with match ammo or quality handloads and you can get one for $575 shipped complete and ready to pin on your lower.

A question for you though...how is your current lower setup? (trigger, grip, stock, etc.)

I only ask because I consider the basis for any accurate AR build to be a good trigger because no matter how good an upper you have on it...it isn't going to achieve its potential with a rack-grade LPK trigger with a gritty, heavy, sloppy pull. Depending on your current setup, if you plan to use your lower, you may also need to budget for: a) a new trigger; b) different stock/grip; c) etc.

 

[Swift]

Re: Precision AR: building vs converting vs buying new

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">+1 on the other comments. You can achieve MOA (and vastly better) accuracy with a quality-barreled .223 upper and maintain that accuracy out to 600yds. I tend to build when it comes to AR's just because you can "have it your way" without settling in any respect on components used in the build. However, with you not seeking a 1/2 MOA upper, every RRA Varmint upper that I have shot (from 16" to 24") has been capable of sub-MOA accuracy with match ammo or quality handloads and you can get one for $575 shipped complete and ready to pin on your lower.

A question for you though...how is your current lower setup? (trigger, grip, stock, etc.)

I only ask because I consider the basis for any accurate AR build to be a good trigger because no matter how good an upper you have on it...it isn't going to achieve its potential with a rack-grade LPK trigger with a gritty, heavy, sloppy pull. Depending on your current setup, if you plan to use your lower, you may also need to budget for: a) a new trigger; b) different stock/grip; c) etc. </div></div>

Right now the lower is a stock CMMG with a gritty, heavy sloppy trigger and a 6 position collapsible stock. I knew going into this that those would have to be changed regardless so I kept that in mind when budgeting.

A couple things I don't think I made clear in my OP that I wanna comment on. I put "build" in the title for lack of a better term but it should have been "upgrade." The last thing I want to do is build an entirely new rifle and let my current AR investment go to waste. Even if it costs almost as much as a new rifle to get it where I want I'd rather do that because I already committed to the rifle I have and I really don't need more firearms laying around the house.

Also, I really don't need 2" groups at 600 yards, but I would like it to be consistent and reliable at those ranges should I decide to step out there. Otherwise the 700 works just fine for that duty.

DPMS makes a nice upper that I've been eyeing. It's a 24" SS bbl with 1:8 twist, freefloated handguard, raised flattop for better optic mounting position, etc. for $580. Not sure if this is on the right path or not but it seems like a good deal. Then I can start considering triggers, stocks, grips, optics, lower parts kits, mpi bolts, etc.

 

[tman300wm]

Re: Precision AR: building vs converting vs buying new

I have an 18" SPR rifle that is barreled in .223 Wylde on a Krieger 1:7 twist. My friend just used it at the Tiger Valley Low Light match last weekend and had no problem hamering targets at 800 yards using 75gr HPBTs. I'm pretty much with the other posters on this one. Get a quality build done. Match trigger, and match barrel are very important to accuracy esp at distances beyond 500 yards.

Consider a 18 to 20 inch barrel in a twist rate suitable to 69gr or heavier bullets. Also, a quality lower with a good stock and any of the drop in match triggers can't be over looked. I think all said and done I have about $1800.00 in my SPR without optics. Your mileage may vary.

 

[KopfenJager]

Re: Precision AR: building vs converting vs buying new

I wouldn't be so quick to be rid of the DPMS barrel. My DPMS started as a A2 upper and a 16" heavy contour with glacier guard hand gaurds, pre government contract rifle. I put a free float tube, a quad rail gas block and had a flat top upper put on. I then scoped it with a Burris 3-12x50 XTR using a Burris P.E.P.R. mount. Off the bi pods I can group 1" with rem 55gr FMJ that I buy at Wally's world. Had a stock dpms trigger with a JP trigger spring. Hand loads group even better. Two things tho, one have not shot allot passed 100yds as of late so I wont comment on that, two I just put a geissele trigger in and haven't shot with it yet. I geuse what I'm saying is ARs can shoot well and you don't have to go crazy to get one to do so. Other than that, I agree with the above advice.