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Precision AR15 Build Questions

BubbaZeek

Private
Minuteman
Jan 5, 2019
4
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I’m going to start building a precision AR15. This is my first build. Looking to do it in .223 Wylde. Which parts do I need to invest the money into? Is it possible to make it sub moa?
 
Can't say enough about getting a good barrel; I prefer cut rifling given the choice. Krieger, Satern, etc. I have a Geissele Hi-Speed trigger in my tack drivers, best trigger Iv'e used. While it doesn't do anything for accuracy, I like the JP Ent. FMOS BCG's, super reliable and slick as goose shit even when dry. FF the barrel of course and remember to save some for a good optic, that's gonna be the singular most expensive part probably.
 
Here’s an example. My 16” Ranier Ultramatch barrel with 77gr OTM match ammo off of a sand bag. I honestly wasn’t even concentrating. The sub MOA capability is there. I can easily shrink that group.
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People typically think of a precision rifle as capable of shooting long distance accurately, probably 800+ yards and in a 5.56 and 18" barrel is a bit of a handicap because you will want as much velocity as possible.

In "tactical" terms, an 18" AR is more of a "special purpose rifle".

It all depends on how and what you're going to shoot.
 
If you're after precision with a gas gun, invest in a quality bolt action rifle.

But seriously, spend more than you think you need to on a barrel. I started my precision shooting with AR's and when i finally got into bolt actions i wanted to kick my own ass. AR's can definitely be precise, but they are a lot more finicky and less forgiving than a bolt action.

As others have already said, spend money on the barrel first, even if it means getting "budget" parts elsewhere. You can always upgrade those cheaper parts in the future.
 
Barrels: Rainier Ultramatch, White Oak, Kreiger, Bartlein (WOA/CLE), Compass Lake (CLE), Craddock and Keystone.

I’ve been very pleased with my Rainier Ultramatch barrels. These 2 groupings were fired back to back and shot in under 10minutes per string from a bipod and small rear bag. The ADI did good aside from the first round from the mag on a few groups, and the top left group where 2 lots of ammo were used. The IMI wasn’t bad for cheap 5.56 pressure 77’s.
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Barrel, trigger, and bolt are probably the most important parts. I have an AR with a Ballistic Advantage 223 Wylde 18-inch SPR, and it shoots surprisingly well HOWEVER due to poor experiences in other builds I'd done with BA, I wouldn't recommend them. If I could do it over again I'd probably go to Craddock Precision and put together something using a Criterion or Bartlein barrel.

Toolcraft BCGs are good to go, I have 3 in various rifles with thousands of rounds and 0 issues.

I definitely recommend a good trigger. You can't go wrong with Geiselle - even their budgetary offering the G2S is amazing and you can pick it up for $120 on sale.

Larue MBT-2S is also a great 2-stage trigger for under $100. I have one on my 308 gas gun that I use for PRS matches and it's fantastic.
 
My .02 - trigger tech or timney trigger, bcm or aero upper, arp match or compass lake barrel, prs gen 3 stock, good quality optics. Nightforce or vortex etc.

There will be a choice to make on barrel twist. Do the research and decide what weight bullet and type. Will you be hunting or cutting paper etc?

Then shoot shoot and shoot some more!!

Good luck!!!
 
Rainier Match (Black Friday barrel) that I tested yesterday. Didn’t have a good test on the first group of Magtech, but I went back to the triad rear bag for the follow up group.

Very happy with it for the price.

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I’m going to start building a precision AR15. This is my first build. Looking to do it in .223 Wylde. Which parts do I need to invest the money into? Is it possible to make it sub moa?
Your actual usage will determine some of the "parts".
By sub MOA, I guess you are thinking a little less than 1 MOA @ 100 yards.
This sub MOA criteria is for 3 shot, 5 shot, 10 shot, 60 shot groups?
For any decent home built that is NOT a pew, pew, pew close quarter AR, more than one MOA@100 means something was done wrong.

Do you plan on carrying this precision AR around from station to station shooting various ranges, maybe out to 500yds?
F-TR @600?
No way to pick parts unless you have an idea what you want it to do.

What bullets do you plan on shooting?
What's your budget?

and since everyone is posting groups, here's a 10 shot@100 one MOA Group

and a 5 shot@100 SUB MOA group
 
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I recently did the same thing with my AR. I went with:

Proof SS Barrel, 18" 223 Wylde
Vltor MUR UPPER
Superlative Arms Adjustable Gas Block
JP LMOS Enhanced BCG
JP Silent Captured Spring

At first I just slapped it on my S&W lower but eventually built a dedicated lower on the Aero Precision M4E1 and put a Rise Armament RA-535 trigger in it.

Right now I am working on finding the right factory ammo it likes best since I don't reload...YET.
 
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Gieselle trigger and a Ballistic Advantage barrel did the trick for me. Aero Upper and lower are nice but the best part is the set screw so you can squeeze out any play between the upper and lower
 
I recently did the same thing with my AR. I went with:

Proof SS Barrel, 18" 223 Wylde
Vltor MUR UPPER
Superlative Arms Adjustable Gas Block
JP LMOS Enhanced BCG
JP Silent Captured Spring

At first I just slapped it on my S&W lower but eventually built a dedicated lower on the Aero Precision M4E1 and put a Rise Armament RA-535 trigger in it.

Right now I am working on finding the right factory ammo it likes best since I don't reload...YET.

+1 on the Superlative Arms adjustable. That with a good brake and you'll be shooting smoother than a .22
 
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