Don't really post too much on here, but definitely do a fair amount of lurking. While perusing the innerweb today in search of a stock for my CTR, I managed to find one. That of course led to me getting a different bottom metal, which somehow led me to getting a proof research carbon barrel. Wondering if anyone has installed one on their CTR? Can't find many examples of them, and from what I read any competent smith can turn down the shank on a proof to match the action face of the T3 action. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar install done.
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Proof Research Barrel on Tikka action?
- Thread starter shields shtr
- Start date
The tikka action is designed for a smaller diameter shank than the conventional barrels out there usually are for the 700 and like actions.
I would not take any diameter off of the shank. The carbon fiber wrapping is completely flush to the shank..
the action tapers down in the front. Upon truing the action you could have a gunsmith remove this taper therefore a larger diameter shank will look like it was made for it.
MY tikka T3 has a light varmint contour from kreiger which is not light at all! It has a 1.200" shank and I did NOT true/face the action. Instead I had a small taper put on the barrel shank and it ended up looking pretty good. You can PM me for pictures.
I would not take any diameter off of the shank. The carbon fiber wrapping is completely flush to the shank..
the action tapers down in the front. Upon truing the action you could have a gunsmith remove this taper therefore a larger diameter shank will look like it was made for it.
MY tikka T3 has a light varmint contour from kreiger which is not light at all! It has a 1.200" shank and I did NOT true/face the action. Instead I had a small taper put on the barrel shank and it ended up looking pretty good. You can PM me for pictures.
Thanks to all. Looks like some work on the action to mate it up smoothly with the barrel. I have a really good gunsmith and he has worked with quite a few proof barrels and Tikka actions separately, we will see what he can do. Nothing like being a guinea pig!
I am definitely not a fan of carbon fiber. Most importantly the lack of heat transfer. They carbon fiber acts as an insulator sleeve for the hot barrel causing faster degration
That's a pretty common misconception.
After shooting a pretty decent number of rounds down our Hardy barrels and talking with some of the gunsmiths that are installing them, we've observed across the board that the chamber/throat stays cool far longer than with steel barrels, and radiates the heat down the barrel rather than simply building up in the first 3" forward of the action.
Ive actually gone out of my way to get the barrel hot and see how it does. 25rd strings of 6.5creed, and then a 5rd group on paper as soon as I could load the mag. Not going to say it was cool after that, it was hot as balls, but it cooled fast and didn't walk as it heated up. The group after the string opens up to about 1/2-3/4 moa.
All of the engineers working on this technology fully expect these barrels to last at least as long as an all-steel barrel.
After shooting a pretty decent number of rounds down our Hardy barrels and talking with some of the gunsmiths that are installing them, we've observed across the board that the chamber/throat stays cool far longer than with steel barrels, and radiates the heat down the barrel rather than simply building up in the first 3" forward of the action.
Ive actually gone out of my way to get the barrel hot and see how it does. 25rd strings of 6.5creed, and then a 5rd group on paper as soon as I could load the mag. Not going to say it was cool after that, it was hot as balls, but it cooled fast and didn't walk as it heated up. The group after the string opens up to about 1/2-3/4 moa.
All of the engineers working on this technology fully expect these barrels to last at least as long as an all-steel barrel.
We/Hardy have done a lot of CF barrels for Tikkas. Let me know what specs you want and we can get it rolling.
Thank you for the offer. I have a local guy who has built a couple really nice rifles for me, I will give him a run at it. I know if he screws it up he would make it right. I would echo your thoughts on CF Barrels as well. I shot a match last weekend with my .300 Win Mag (not smart) that has a Proof CF Barrel. There were a couple stations that had some intense strings of fire and I felt my barrel afterwards. Like you said, not cool to the touch by any means, but not near as hot as a metal barrel after similar strings. That barrel is also extremely accurate. Thanks again for the reply.
Sorry, should have been clearer. We're the importer for Hardy barrels. If you want a tube for your guy to put on, let me know!
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A close friend of mine just had proof Barrel spun up on his tikka 6.5 in a factory ctr stock no problem. I'd like to try a hardy on my 308 build though
Nice. I love how smooth the action is, just wasn't real fond of the factory stock and 20" barrel. Got the Manners en route, CDI bottom metal en route, barrel en route, and a few other misc items. Hell, I'll be happy if it shoots just as good as it did stock. I think Tikka got that one right, I just had to make a few tweaks to make it mine.
I'm doing a 30 Nosler with 26" proof barrel on T3x action. Hoping to get all parts in next couple weeks to hand off to gunsmith.
look up dmrllc theyre out of vegas and have been on a kick building lightweight competition and hunting rifles using proof barrels and cf chassis mostly on tikka actions. there should be several pictures on their website or if you have instagram i know theyre on there
Now that's a thing of BEAUTY...
What's her name?
She HAS to have a name.
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I put in a Proof Carbon prefit in my Tikka T3x myself. I removed my stock CTR barrel (with 3 hits of a deadblow hammer) and torqued the Proof barrel to 100 ft-lbs. Shoots great, is a .3-.4 MOA shooter in .308
I don't have a no-go gauge, and it of course closes on a go-gauge fine, but recently my Lapua brass has been getting case head separations after 8 firings so I suspect I might have a slightly loose headspace. I got my no-go and field-gauges coming and will try them out. We will see. (I did cerakote the the steel portions of the barrel and did not tape up the face (I taped the shank threads but not the face that mates to the action) so this may be entirely my fault.
I don't have a no-go gauge, and it of course closes on a go-gauge fine, but recently my Lapua brass has been getting case head separations after 8 firings so I suspect I might have a slightly loose headspace. I got my no-go and field-gauges coming and will try them out. We will see. (I did cerakote the the steel portions of the barrel and did not tape up the face (I taped the shank threads but not the face that mates to the action) so this may be entirely my fault.
Carbon barrels save weight over a similar steel barrel profile, however they do not increase precision. If they increased precision every benchrest shooter would be using them.
EJ
EJ
You might be setting the shoulder back too far.
After the first firing it’s up to you to set your sizing die to suit your brass and chamber.
Thanks. I've been bumping my shoulder 2 thou every firing. However, I just got my no-go and field gauges so I tested it out (didn't remove extractor or ejector from the bolt)
the no-go gauge closes with very light resistance, however the field-gauge does not. Leads me to believe that if I remove the Cerakote from the shoulder and action face by stoning, I should get a properly-tight headspace again or this barrel might be particularly loose. I'd rather the no-go gauge not close at all. The cerakote was a fairly light dusting in those areas in question, so not sure how much I can gain by cleaning them up. I don't have a lathe or machine tools, so that's out.
Should I bother, or should this be corrected?
Thanks for the advice.
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