Proper Break In - Weatherby Vanguard

[sroc112]

Greetings all,

Will be picking up my new Weatherby Vanguard in 6.5 CM this week and plan on getting to the range shortly after. I'm new to the rifle scene, and purchased this mainly to have some fun at medium distances at the range, but also would like to plan my first hunting trip come the fall as well.

Before I set out to shoot with it over the next week or 2, just wanted to ask if there is a proper break in technic one should do for the barrel? It's #2 contour, 24 inch, and I'll be adding on a JCB Solutions 3 port mini break (already have it).

Any pointers so I can make sure I get the most out of this rifle would be greatly appreciated!

 

[JFR]

Weatherby recommends clean, shoot three, repeat for twenty rounds using two different loads. I just read that on their website. It is not my opinion.

JFR

 

[Rio Precision Gunworks]

Either just shoot it, or use manufacturer's recommendations. Most barrel break in procedures only exist because the general public always asks for it. So they give one to appease people.

 

[Jrb572]

I would shoot and sight it in and shoot how ever many rounds. Take it home clean and remember next time out it might take a few rounds to settle back in to your zero.

 

[sroc112]

Keeping temperature/burn in mind, any number of rounds I should not exceed in that first range trip?

 

[Hickswr]

Weatherby recommends clean, shoot three, repeat for twenty rounds using two different loads. I just read that on their website. It is not my opinion.

JFR

“Two different loads”

I’d like to see the science behind that one

 

[JFR]

“Two different loads”

I’d like to see the science behind that one

Exactly.

JFR

 

[Jrb572]

Keeping temperature/burn in mind, any number of rounds I should not exceed in that first range trip?

I would not worry too much. only thing I would worry about is sending rounds to fast down it.

 

[Long Range 338]

“Two different loads”

I’d like to see the science behind that one

That’s code for “pay no attention to the group size”

 

[MarshallDodge]

I would shoot and sight it in and shoot how ever many rounds. Take it home clean and remember next time out it might take a few rounds to settle back in to your zero.

This works for me.

I've found that most factory barrels take a while to truly "break-in" and the hoops they make you jump through are just disguising that fact.

 

[Buzzinga]

The Litz gave an interview on Erik Cortina's podcast and stated they had seen a lot of barrels speed up over the first about two-hundred rounds before settling down and normalizing. So...

Step One: Shoot one hundred rounds over how ever many range sessions.
Step Two: Clean barrel with high quality patches, bore-guide, rods, jags, and cleaning solution. (I like Butch's Bore Shine).
Step Three: Shoot one hundred rounds over how ever many range sessions.
Step Four: Clean barrel with high quality patches, bore-guide, rods, jags, and cleaning solution.

Your barrel is now "broken-in" Congrats!

FWIW, for that caliber, I'd only clean about 200 rounds or so.

 

[FuhQ]

Before you ever shoot it, clean the entire rifle, pull it out of the stock, wipe all the oil and cosmoline type shit off of it. Put it back together. And then brush and patch the barrel and make sure it's like a mirror. Then patch it dry. Go to the range, and shoot it. Don't worry about all this hokey-pokey bullshit that these idiots tell you that you have to do to "properly" break-in a rifle barrel. The only way to break one in, is to shoot it. Just make sure it's spotless before you ever shoot the rifle to ensure there's no debris and dust and rust in the bore from manufacturing, shipping, and sitting at the dealer.

 

[308pirate]

Keeping temperature/burn in mind, any number of rounds I should not exceed in that first range trip?

Is this a serious question?

Can you not use your hand to feel when the barrel is starting to get too hot?

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

What works for me and used it on my Vanguard….shoot five rounds, cleaning between each round. Shoot five rounds, clean after five rounds, repeat two more times for a total of 20 shots.

Do this in everything but shotguns. It may work, may not work, but I have become very superstitious of it. Not every firearm has become a great shooter, using this method, but, every firearm that I ignored this procedural has been a dud. Used it on the Vanguard, and it has been great.

(Oh, last shotgun we purchased was sometime in the middle 70’s. But we are not big shotgun shooters anyway)

 

[jbuck88]

I look at it as if there was a way that made a significant difference we all would know by now and not just a bunch of random ideas.

Think the best idea is to clean it thoroughly before you shoot it and then shoot as normal.

 

[DJL2]

@jbuck88 nailed it - if this actually mattered, there would be a definitive way to do it as opposed to a bunch of old ladies arguing about which magic rocks have the most important auras... shit, sorry, I meant which break in procedure is the best.

If you are worried that your barrel is so roughly made that it needs to be finished properly before it will shoot, get some lapping compound and get to work. Trying to finish the (throat of the) barrel one shot at a time and cleaning back to bare metal between shots is... superstition in action.

 

[waveslayer]

I had a guy tell me last week that breaking in a barrel is getting it to speed up!

 

[FuhQ]

I had a guy tell me last week that breaking in a barrel is getting it to speed up!

More of that Fuddlore that we are slowly trying to correct about firearms, but the average idiot believes...And more dumbasses keep making up new shit to spread around as "facts" every single year. Then the idiots who bought into it, will actually sit there and argue with you, and are ready and willing to die on that hill, because their buddy who said it "knows everything about guns"... It's exhausting.

 

[db2000]

A little off topic but 3 samples of Vanguards I’ve shot have all been sub MOA guns with 5 shots and close to MOA with 10 shots. Bolt action is a little sloppy IMO. Triggers all changed to Timney. These are hand loads. No barrel break-in was done fwiw. My 300 WBY Mag is circa 2004ish the others are Vanguard II’s I think.

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

A little off topic but 3 samples of Vanguards I’ve shot have all been sub MOA guns with 5 shots and close to MOA with 10 shots. Bolt action is a little sloppy IMO. Triggers all changed to Timney. These are hand loads. No barrel break-in was done fwiw. My 300 WBY Mag is circa 2004ish the others are Vanguard II’s I think.

I’ve bragged on my Vanguard in .25-06 so often, I’m surprised I haven’t been banned for boring people to death, but, mine too. Of course, I really don’t no if break in is really breaking in or if its just “braking” in.

 

[sroc112]

Is this a serious question?

Can you not use your hand to feel when the barrel is starting to get too hot?

 

[308pirate]

A little off topic but 3 samples of Vanguards I’ve shot have all been sub MOA guns with 5 shots and close to MOA with 10 shots. Bolt action is a little sloppy IMO. Triggers all changed to Timney. These are hand loads. No barrel break-in was done fwiw. My 300 WBY Mag is circa 2004ish the others are Vanguard II’s I think.

You can thank Howa Machinery Co. LTD of Japan for that.

The Vanguard is a rebranded Howa 1500

 

[db2000]

You can thank Howa Machinery Co. LTD of Japan for that.

The Vanguard is a rebranded Howa 1500

The 2003-2004 are? Didn’t realize that. I think mine is made in Japan but would have to double check.

 

[db2000]

This excerpt sums it up nicely regarding the timeframe and accuracy but doesn’t address where they were made or by whom. I bought mine at Wallyworld on sale for $399. Reading a bit further it does seem to be rebranded and made in Japan. A few differences but pretty similar per all the discussions I’ve briefly read. I always thought that was in regards to the S2 Vanguards so learning something new this AM.

 

[308pirate]

The 2003-2004 are? Didn’t realize that. I think mine is made in Japan but would have to double check.

As far as i know all Vanguards over the last 20 years or so have been rebranded Howas.

All you have to do is look at functional features like the underside of the receiver, the trigger assembly, and bolt details like the cocking piece.

Have Vanguard rifles always been built in Japan?

Yes.

faq.weatherby.com

Weatherby says all Vanguards have been made in Japan. I'll put money on Howa being the maker from day 1.

This article reinforces my belief: https://www.americanrifleman.org/co...guard-the-company-s-most-popular-bolt-action/

 

[TheBigCountry]

 

[fdkay]

Greetings all,

Will be picking up my new Weatherby Vanguard in 6.5 CM this week and plan on getting to the range shortly after. I'm new to the rifle scene, and purchased this mainly to have some fun at medium distances at the range, but also would like to plan my first hunting trip come the fall as well.

Before I set out to shoot with it over the next week or 2, just wanted to ask if there is a proper break in technic one should do for the barrel? It's #2 contour, 24 inch, and I'll be adding on a JCB Solutions 3 port mini break (already have it).

Any pointers so I can make sure I get the most out of this rifle would be greatly appreciated!

There isn't any hard data that supports "barrel break-in", that being said, there isn't anything wrong with being cautious with your new rifle.
My recommendation, by a good, one piece rod, a 6.5 jag (.264), a bore guide, a good quality nylon bore brush and a good cleaner and cotton patches.
There are several good cleaners out there, I still use Hoppes #9.
Be careful of cleaners that contain ammonia, they work well, but if left in, they will etch your bore.
I am also a big fan of the foaming bore cleaner, properly used, you really don't need a brush.
I would shoot no more than 5 rounds, then clean the barrel. Howa recommends using window cleaner (ETA ammonia free cleaner)to remove any residual bore cleaner. I use isopropyl alcohol for this. Even though you dry patch, the cleaner will leave a thin film in your bore, it won't damage anything, but it will sometime cause a poi shift. Never shoot so many rounds that your barrel is uncomfortable to hold.
Keep in mind, you don't have to do a thorough cleaning during your break in, a couple of patches with cleaner, followed by a few strokes with nylon bore brush, follow that with one more with cleaner, then dry patch x2.
John McQuay used to be a regular contributor here, watch this video.
FWIW, I prefer nylon as they don;t give you a false reading of copper like a brass brush does. Don't forget to clean your bore brushes occasionally, carb cleaner works well, just spray them down and shake them off.

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

There isn't any hard data that supports "barrel break-in", that being said, there isn't anything wrong with being cautious with your new rifle.
My recommendation, by a good, one piece rod, a 6.5 jag (.264), a bore guide, a good quality nylon bore brush and a good cleaner and cotton patches.
There are several good cleaners out there, I still use Hoppes #9.
Be careful of cleaners that contain ammonia, they work well, but if left in, they will etch your bore.
I am also a big fan of the foaming bore cleaner, properly used, you really don't need a brush.
I would shoot no more than 5 rounds, then clean the barrel. Howa recommends using window cleaner to remove any residual bore cleaner. I use isopropyl alcohol for this. Even though you dry patch, the cleaner will leave a thin film in your bore, it won't damage anything, but it will sometime cause a poi shift. Never shoot so many rounds that your barrel is uncomfortable to hold.
Keep in mind, you don't have to do a thorough cleaning during your break in, a couple of patches with cleaner, followed by a few strokes with nylon bore brush, follow that with one more with cleaner, then dry patch x2.
John McQuay used to be a regular contributor here, watch this video.
FWIW, I prefer nylon as they don;t give you a false reading of copper like a brass brush does. Don't forget to clean your bore brushes occasionally, carb cleaner works well, just spray them down and shake them off.

What he Said ^^^

When I say clean, I never do a scrape it down to the bare metal. My cleanings normally include patches with a light coat of good gun oil till they come out light gray. The give the action a decent cleaning and bring an old XP-100 shooter, put a small amount of good gun grease on the lugs to prevent galling. (Something XP-100’s were famous for).

If I am really serious, I’ll break out the Hoppes #9, run a Hoppes soaked patch, then a couple passes with a nylon brush with Hoppes, then a couple more Hoppes soaked patches, then finish with patches soaked in oil until it comes out light gray, then a dry patch. Also remove the brake if applicable and give it a good cleaning.

Break in. Go to first paragraph, get it light run though with oiled patches.

I save the tough brushes for the inside of the frame of a stainless revolver. Powder and carbon stains are everywhere on revolvers.

 

[Chris W.]

There isn't any hard data that supports "barrel break-in", that being said, there isn't anything wrong with being cautious with your new rifle.
My recommendation, by a good, one piece rod, a 6.5 jag (.264), a bore guide, a good quality nylon bore brush and a good cleaner and cotton patches.
There are several good cleaners out there, I still use Hoppes #9.
Be careful of cleaners that contain ammonia, they work well, but if left in, they will etch your bore.
I am also a big fan of the foaming bore cleaner, properly used, you really don't need a brush.
I would shoot no more than 5 rounds, then clean the barrel. Howa recommends using window cleaner (ETA ammonia free cleaner)to remove any residual bore cleaner. I use isopropyl alcohol for this. Even though you dry patch, the cleaner will leave a thin film in your bore, it won't damage anything, but it will sometime cause a poi shift. Never shoot so many rounds that your barrel is uncomfortable to hold.
Keep in mind, you don't have to do a thorough cleaning during your break in, a couple of patches with cleaner, followed by a few strokes with nylon bore brush, follow that with one more with cleaner, then dry patch x2.
John McQuay used to be a regular contributor here, watch this video.
FWIW, I prefer nylon as they don;t give you a false reading of copper like a brass brush does. Don't forget to clean your bore brushes occasionally, carb cleaner works well, just spray them down and shake them off.

Blast from the past. When I was first getting into the sport I used to watch this guy all the time. What happened to him? He still releasing stuff?

 

[fdkay]

Blast from the past. When I was first getting into the sport I used to watch this guy all the time. What happened to him? He still releasing stuff?

He still attends shot show and puts out 1 or 2 videos. Likely found that the time it takes coming up with topics, creating at least an outline, editing video and uploading interfered with his home life too much.

 

[godofthunder]

This excerpt sums it up nicely regarding the timeframe and accuracy but doesn’t address where they were made or by whom. I bought mine at Wallyworld on sale for $399. Reading a bit further it does seem to be rebranded and made in Japan. A few differences but pretty similar per all the discussions I’ve briefly read. I always thought that was in regards to the S2 Vanguards so learning something new this AM.
View attachment 8364203

Interesting info on the history.

More interesting info, for my day job I am a Mechanical Engineer at HTI Plastics. I didn't that that us making the stocks was out in public domain.

 

[sroc112]

In regard to barrel life on a rifle like this (#2 contour lightweight):

Let's say I'm using it for some fun target shooting at range and running maybe 20-40 rounds through the gun each trip, twice a month or so. Typically going through 3-4 rounds, then a few minute break in between. After a handful of 3-4 round shots may switch over to a different gun for a bit then come back.

When the topic of heat and excessive rapid fire being the leading contributors to reduced barrel life, how many rounds are most implying when they consider it too much too fast and too hot?

I ask because while yes I would like to use this gun as a hunting rifle in the future, as I learn this rifle and also practice at hunting distance ranges, I am getting my reps in with this gun so I become efficient with it and just wondering if this type of frequency is considered too much for this barrel to the extent that in a year or 2 it may be enough to cause any issues.

I may be over thinking, and likely am, but wanted to try and get a better idea on what is considered normal practice and use on a lightweight rifle vs too much too fast.

 

[wind gypsy]

I wouldn't worry about it too much. You see a bunch of reports of 2500+ round barrel life for 6.5s on match rifles that are primarily shot in long strings and run hot. Sounds like you're much easier on it than that. How long is it going to take you to shoot 2500 rounds through that gun?