Prs style rifle build——xlr element vs krg X-ray

JohnDeereGuy1996

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I’m building a set up to shoot some prs style matches that are local to me. I’ll be new to the whole competition thing as I’m usually just ringing steel from my back yard at long distances.
I have the scope-nf atacr f1 milc
I have the barreled action-tikka 24 inch ctr

I’m in need of a chassis. Wanting to stick with either the xlr element or the krg x Ray for now to see if I really like the chassis style over what I’m used to (manners etc)
Can always upgrade to a cadex or mpa later.

Unfortunately I can’t get behind either of these so I would love to hear pro and cons of both from people who own and/or compete with them.
 
Where do you live?

I have an xray, my cousin has an element.

I like how simple the element is, it has what it has and you see it all. Solid and simple and feels good enough with my cousins dumb positioning taken into account. I would have gotten one but I couldnt have the same thing he already has, vanity and all. Im not sure I like how sticky the ergo grip was and the large swell in the middle of the palm and I would have gone with the extreme stock soas to have a full smooth underside to ride bags.

I also like my xray but Ive been on it enough to have developed some more in depth gripes. One gripe is that it unlike the element all of the internals are hidden under the plastic skins. Sure, it looks great but it is a pain removing stuff. 8 screws to get the action out instead of 2. I also dont like that the bottom of the butt stock comes back up, I guess for positional it may make it easier to get in some spots but now it feels like none of my bags are tall enough to support the stock in normal bipod scenarios, the little plastic extension piece helps but it is sort of a dinky solution. They make a full bag rider but I dont think Im going to invest anymore into making the chassis nicer. The stock cheek piece sucks, its hard and sort of rough with the holes in top. When I get on the rifle it hits my cheek bone just right so that a vein would push the rifle with each heart beat, a weibad pad fixed that issue but thats still 40 bucks more that I dont think should be necessary, especially when the element has that little thin foam that seems to do just as well of a job. I like the spigot but at 150 bucks for that and a flush cup I sort of regret it.


IMO I think that the Bravo looks to have the best form of any of the cheap stocks. At least if you like the traditional/manners form and stylings like I do.
 
Hi mate. Ive got 2 x KRG X-Ray and a KRG Whiskey 3. I love the KRG over the XLR as I tested both (along with many others) before I settled on the KRG. Now i guess it is all up to personal preference and the shape of your body and cheek weld and what feels right for you. It would be hard if you cant get behind either one before purchase. Go for the KRG!
 
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I recommend the X-Ray. I handed an Element extensively but just couldn't warm up to the buttstock and the way the rear of the chassis hit my thumb knuckle (I float on the bolt handle side). I ended up trying the KRG X-Ray and immediately liked it. It is very ergonomic for me. I added the angled bag rider on the bottom and it's nice. Even though it's an expensive add on, I also really recommend the spigot mount. It helps get the bipod further out and closer to the bore. I immediately noticed the stability difference when I put it on. As far as removing the action, I drilled out the hole accessing the front action screw so I could fit my bit without removing the fore end. I think KRG should just mold that hole a bit larger. My main gripe is the magwell. Most unmodified mags will not drop free by design. I however prefer drop-free. With a little more sanding I think I can get Magpul AICS mags to drop free.
 
My main gripe is the magwell. Most unmodified mags will not drop free by design. I however prefer drop-free. With a little more sanding I think I can get Magpul AICS mags to drop free.

When you put the forearm on press forward on the mag before the screwed are torqued, putting forward tension on it while you tighten will give it a bit more space. I feel like I read that it’s designed to allow you to move it back and take up slack in the magwell but like yours mine has the reverse implementation, instead of pulling back to make tension I push forward to free up tension. But once that’s set up it seems just fine. Both my cerakoted metal aics and magpul aics drop free now with out sanding.
 
My main gripe is the magwell. Most unmodified mags will not drop free by design. I however prefer drop-free. With a little more sanding I think I can get Magpul AICS mags to drop free.

Ive only owned the whiskey 3 and bravo but both have procedures to adjust the magwell size. Might want to look into that.

I currently own and shoot both the element and a whiskey 3. Both back ends can be adjusted equally well. I prefer the Tac Lite stock and adding their verticle/cant adjuster plate (i don't think they list it but if you call they sell it for $25). The main difference is the grip area. Krg provides a nice thumb shelf while xlr doesn't and you need to float your thumb far out in the side. With how boxy the xlr body is its uncomfortable to me so i just fully use the ergo grip. Ergo grip is incredibly comfortable though.

The krg is a bit fatter up front which rides a bag a bit better but not enough to be a difference to win or lose.

I love both but because of the grip area i enjoy the krg more.
 
My Tikka sits in an X-Ray. I'm not sure what Spife is talking about, but my barreled action is removed with two socket head cap screws.

The length of pull could be longer. I'm using 5 of the spacers between the butt pad and the chassis.
If you do go KRG, buy the spigot. When running a bag under the forearm there isn't much room when your bipod is attached. With the spigot, I leave the bipod on for pretty much all stages.
 
I'm not sure what Spife is talking about, but my barreled action is removed with two socket head cap screws.

Well yeah but the front action screw is under the plastic forearm which requires six screws to take off.
08639A10-3709-4481-A289-36C370E71184.jpeg


Maybe with a thin driver you can get in there but I’ve not had any luck with that (especially trying to reinstall it) and I’ve seen complaints of it elsewhere as well.