Is there a real advantage to going to a PTG bolt vs just trueing my factory bolt? I am abt to have everything ready for a long range hunting rifle in 300 wm and want to do it as right as possible. I am starting with a Remington Alaskan Ti action that I have been hunting with. I ordered the PTG Chris Kyle Match reamer, proof Sendero barrel and Manners EH1 stock. I am trying to finish it out at around 10 lbs.
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Gunsmithing PTG bolt or just true factory bolt on Rem 700 build?
- Thread starter tlsmith22
- Start date
For your combination I would stick with a factory bolt.
If you were going to bore the raceway and go with tight tolerances the PT&G bolt is actually cheaper than performing all the work to a factory bolt. Once the raceway is bored you can either sleeve/double sleeve the bolt body or buy a oversized bolt.
If you buy an oversized bolt you would then get the 0.062 firing pin the outside diameter of your choice a tighter fitting bolt shroud and a coned boltface at no extra charge.
If you were going to bore the raceway and go with tight tolerances the PT&G bolt is actually cheaper than performing all the work to a factory bolt. Once the raceway is bored you can either sleeve/double sleeve the bolt body or buy a oversized bolt.
If you buy an oversized bolt you would then get the 0.062 firing pin the outside diameter of your choice a tighter fitting bolt shroud and a coned boltface at no extra charge.
The only thing I can think of you can get from a PTG bolt that you can't do with a factory bolt is to have a single piece machined bolt body and handle - all of the factory handles are brazed. You can have it welded/screwed for additional security, but you can't machine a new handle on. If you do go with a PTG bolt (I'd be leery after my experience with them), you can go ahead and have upgrade options like an improved extractor, threaded bolt handle, etc. done up front instead of getting a gunsmith to do it to your existing bolt.
Unless your Factory bolt is somehow not up to snuff, I'd leave well enough alone. The Remington Ti actions perportedly are much better actions than the basic junk Remington are known for.
FWIW, I'm currently approaching the 7th week of waiting, nagging, calling and emailing PTG for a "lightweight Rem firing pin" replacement for a defective PTG piece that survived all of 60 rounds before the tip broke off. Upon disassembly, in addition to the pin tip having snapped off, the cocking piece retention pin was also broken in half, and the steel 'head' had come unglued from the aluminum pin body and I could un-thread it by hand. I currently have a tracking code however after another 30 hours it still doesn't show being underway. 2¢
FWIW, I'm currently approaching the 7th week of waiting, nagging, calling and emailing PTG for a "lightweight Rem firing pin" replacement for a defective PTG piece that survived all of 60 rounds before the tip broke off. Upon disassembly, in addition to the pin tip having snapped off, the cocking piece retention pin was also broken in half, and the steel 'head' had come unglued from the aluminum pin body and I could un-thread it by hand. I currently have a tracking code however after another 30 hours it still doesn't show being underway. 2¢
No. In fact, I've yet to see any benefit over an OEM bolt. PTG bolts test at around 36 Rockwell C scale where's an OEM bolt head is typically 42 Rockwell C. That matters. Strength, hardness, and toughness are what you want in a bolt head. 36 just means its easy to machine.
A little work to clean it up maybe and its there. Not trying to sound like a dick; "Better" and "Different" don't always coincide.
First bolt is a factory bolt in a factory action.
Second bolt is an oversized bolt too help tighten things up in a factory action.
Third bolt has been double sleeved bushed the whole nine yards. The shroud was used just to mock things up. The bolt won't fit into an unbored action.
I just used a factory bolt and had a PTG handle tigged on. Doing it hat way allows you to true the lugs and then get the timing right with the bolt. LRI does a great job on these and will also get the handle right so it clears the scope and fits the stock.
IMO, no advantage. In fact, if one is to drag out a hardness tester and do a comparison, the OEM bolt heads tend to run in the low 40's where's the am stuff is typically mid 30's. This starts to be relevant in a field environment where funk is present. Its also something to appreciate with the 50/50 cocking arrangement on the M700's as the lugs do load on the ramps of the receiver.
The end game here is also the PE (Primary Extraction) feature. They almost always need work and with a one piece bolt its not the easiest feature to alter. The factory stuff can have the handle snatched off, welded up, machined, then reattached. We've had pretty good luck with that for a long time now.
Be happy to help.
C.
LRI Time/TIG service
LRI Receiver and Bolt work
Have you called us? 605.490.2561 is our daytime phone. I've been gone last 6 days. Got married and went to Shot Show.
Give us a shout tomorrow, happy to help.
C.
I have to ask. In that order or did you get married in Vegas? If in Vegas you should have let everyone know. We would have been there.Have you called us? 605.490.2561 is our daytime phone. I've been gone last 6 days. Got married and went to Shot Show.
Give us a shout tomorrow, happy to help.
C.
All the best to the newly weds.
Dave
Dave, thank you.
Kalli and I have been together 15 years now. Marriage was something we have both wanted, but scabs from the past took awhile to scar over so neither of us were really in a big hurry. Our grandson kinda put things into perspective.
So, we handled it.
It was literally a drive through wedding. We never got out of the car. Tacky? Absolutely and that's what made it hysterical. Appreciate the thought(s).C/K
