Question for the gunsmiths: friction fit rem700 inlet too tight or ok?

[CollarChoke]

So I had to modify a Lone Peak Fuzion inlet Foundation Centurion to fit a regular round rem700 pattern Zermatt Origin. The micarta is easy to work with and I just used some 120 grit sandpaper and took a few hours to get it to a tight friction fit on the Origin action and then opened up the bolt handle cutout a bit to clear for the swept handle.

When I torque the action to 55in/lbs it is firmly in place to the point where when I take out the M5 bottom metal screws the action and barrel require a some wiggling to get out of the stock. When I check with marking paint it's because there's a tiny bit of the faceted material on the sides of the stock left which is capturing the action into a bit of squeeze when tightened into the inlet. As far as I can tell I have good solid mounting contact around the action screws.

Question for the smiths: would you leave it at that and call it good or should I take it down to entirely clear and then bed it? I figure having a bit of a clamp on the action is a good thing, but curious what the pros think. When I look at something like a Manners mini chassis, it has similar faceted contact points so that makes me think it's fine to just run it as is.

 

[sgtsmmiii]

So I had to modify a Lone Peak Fuzion inlet Foundation Centurion to fit a regular round rem700 pattern Zermatt Origin. The micarta is easy to work with and I just used some 120 grit sandpaper and took a few hours to get it to a tight friction fit on the Origin action and then opened up the bolt handle cutout a bit to clear for the swept handle.

When I torque the action to 55in/lbs it is firmly in place to the point where when I take out the M5 bottom metal screws the action and barrel require a some wiggling to get out of the stock. When I check with marking paint it's because there's a tiny bit of the faceted material on the sides of the stock left which is capturing the action into a bit of squeeze when tightened into the inlet. As far as I can tell I have good solid mounting contact around the action screws.

Question for the smiths: would you leave it at that and call it good or should I take it down to entirely clear and then bed it? I figure having a bit of a clamp on the action is a good thing, but curious what the pros think. When I look at something like a Manners mini chassis, it has similar faceted contact points so that makes me think it's fine to just run it as is.

View attachment 8546268

I want to say it first................how does it shoot currently?

 

[supercorndogs]

I just dropped a 700 in a stock bedded for some custom action. I don't remeber which one. It also takes a little squeeze to seat it all the way. The sides beimg a little too tight. It takes tightening the action screws to seat it all the way.

Shoots great still.

 

[CollarChoke]

I want to say it first................how does it shoot currently?

Just got it yesterday, we'll find out Sunday, which leaves a whole 2 days of time for tinkering

 

[ShtrRdy]

I would try it as is. It might work just fine.

 

[CollarChoke]

Yeah it shoots just fine. Not going to mess with it further

 

[redbullitt]

That's always a good surprise. Nice!

 

[FUNCTIONAL]

But what if sanding it gets you .300" groups?!

 

[CollarChoke]

But what if sanding it gets you .300" groups?!

Don't you put that evil on me!

I would sand and meticulously fit for 6 more hours ... then I would skim bed ... then I'd be sitting in a pile of marinetex ... then I'd be annoyed at doing a messy job so of course the dremel comes out to "clean things up" ... 12 hours later I'd have whittled the stock down to what is essentially now an overpriced baseball bat ... and then I'd be on the Foundation order form pretending none of this ever happened.

I know myself too well