Question on Using Weaponized math on a 22

[RALA]

I originally posted this in the Marksmanship forum and it was suggest to also post it here.

I've read thru and understand how to use the Weaponized math charts for centerfire. Makes perfect sense. Gravity is a constant and you should believe what the rifle tells you on that day, and not rely solely on the calculator. In the write up it's mentioned that it can be scaled for a 22 and up. Has anyone done that for 22lr? What zero do you use 25 or 50 yards. what increment are the next steps? One of the local matches the range goes to 240 yards and the MD places targets at random ranges each match.

Thanks

 

[jcmullis2]

I originally posted this in the Marksmanship forum and it was suggest to also post it here.

I've read thru and understand how to use the Weaponized math charts for centerfire. Makes perfect sense. Gravity is a constant and you should believe what the rifle tells you on that day, and not rely solely on the calculator. In the write up it's mentioned that it can be scaled for a 22 and up. Has anyone done that for 22lr? What zero do you use 25 or 50 yards. what increment are the next steps? One of the local matches the range goes to 240 yards and the MD places targets at random ranges each match.

Thanks

The problem is the rim fire ammo. Centerfire ammo especially reloads have better consistency. The other guys will get us both straightened out in a few. Lol

 

[JBoomhauer]

Though I was replying to the rimfire thread, but got the practical shooting one instead. Here is a copy paste from the other one.

Here’s my backfigured weaponized math based on Sk @1087.

Or like @beetroot said, ignore the math and just use the drops.

 

[DFOOSKING]

Not sure what is being asked exactly....

How do you do the deed without a ballistic solver?

At what application? Shooting matches or hunting or just fucking around? Using full speed ammo or subsonic match ammo?

Experience and writing shit down i guess. If I'm not shooting a match. I have general drops out to 100 partially memorized and for sure somewhere they are wrote down. I tend to shoot a gun for a few months then switch to another for different applications.

I got full speed ammo hunting/target guns, subsonic ammo hunting guns, and subsonic match guns. And also a few that I haven't shot yet to know what they are.

My bergara B14R carbon started out super fast. It was going like 1175fps with the first two bricks of ammo. Now its going 1085fps with the same brand different lot #. Drop at 100 was 1.6 and is now 1.8 mils. Zeroed at 50yds.

My 77/22 all weather is a decade plus old truck gun thats killed shit beyond 200yds. Drop at 100 is 8.25 to 9 MOA depending on time of the year. -20°F and 100°F shifts stuff. Zeroed at 40yds. I remember in the winter the 200yd dope is two revs (30 MOA) and every 10yds after 100 is roughly 1 MOA per jump. This only can dial out to 230-ish. The zero chosen is based off field experience. 50 is too far out for close shots...especially with a duplex reticle.

My old 1945 513T was a copperplated bulk ammo loving machine and has a bunch of sweet short and long range cold bore shots. Drop at 100 is 5.25 MOA. This gun can dial out to 365-ish yards. Groups out there are hardly amazing. 50 yard zero. No rail at all and a 1" tube 10X weaver.

As far as what do I do when solver is down? Which in 10yrs so far has never happened. Not panic. I have screenshots of drop charts. And dope books and note pads with crap annoted solely because I lose all my gun profiles when I buy new phones. My written charts are 10yd increment but my solver is set to 5 yard increment since 10 yards can be 3 tenths at a point.

But for matches I make screenshots of stages with notes and have a wrist coach with environmentals noted on the card as a fall back position.

One gun has a very fudd-like drop chart taped on....but only for 100 and in. Data swings through the day for me to resort to blindly flinging at small objects.

Until NRL22 came around...I didn't really care to shoot over 200yds. And for the most part I still don't. Not even my best rimfire guns shoot anything better than my centerfire's do to honestly give a shit.

My 22-250 could smoke gophers and crows at 300yds. My bergara is struggling to hit a 14" sawblade at +350 at a match in 12mph wind. Don't get me wrong...I like taking pokes from time to time. But groups are so big I hardly get excited about it. And the rimfire matches are getting repetitious.

Resorting to guessing drop when my solver was there....at home....long before leaving to shoot isnt really an issue. And dialing the same dope as another gun at 100 and then making a correction....which leads to having solid dope isn't an issue either.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the OP's question.

 

[Sheriff_Will_Teasle]

Here is an example of how I use weaponized math for my .22lr. We have a local club match with 15 minutes to get dope every month. The match has targets at a dozen or more distances from 50 yards to 225 yards. There’s no time (or ammo) to get dope at all the distances. So I get my dope at 50 and at 225. And that’s it.

In the summer I’ll be around 0 at 50 and 7.5 mil at 225. In the winter I’ll be .2 and 8.1. To fill in all the dozens of drops I need, I use the 45/55 weaponized math rule. The distance from 50 to 225 is 175 yards. The drop in the first half of that 175 yards is 45% and the drop in the second half is 55%, that’s all you need to remember as your weaponized math.

This month that drop to 225 was 7.5 mil. So I cut 7.5 mil in half and I get 3.75 mil. I knock off 10% (since knocking off 10% from half gets me to 45%) and I have 3.75-.4 = 3.4. That’s my dope for the half way distance of 137 yards. Now I do it again in both directions and I get my dope at 100 yards = 1.5 and my dope at 175 = 5.2. I can do it again and get my dope at 75 and 200. Do it again as needed to fill out all the distances needed. It takes about 3 minutes to shoot the 2 distances and another 5 minutes to get every distance I need from the weaponized math. Try it and see if it matches up with your actual data!

 

[RALA]

Here is an example of how I use weaponized math for my .22lr. We have a local club match with 15 minutes to get dope every month. The match has targets at a dozen or more distances from 50 yards to 225 yards. There’s no time (or ammo) to get dope at all the distances. So I get my dope at 50 and at 225. And that’s it.

In the summer I’ll be around 0 at 50 and 7.5 mil at 225. In the winter I’ll be .2 and 8.1. To fill in all the dozens of drops I need, I use the 45/55 weaponized math rule. The distance from 50 to 225 is 175 yards. The drop in the first half of that 175 yards is 45% and the drop in the second half is 55%, that’s all you need to remember as your weaponized math.

This month that drop to 225 was 7.5 mil. So I cut 7.5 mil in half and I get 3.75 mil. I knock off 10% (since knocking off 10% from half gets me to 45%) and I have 3.75-.4 = 3.4. That’s my dope for the half way distance of 137 yards. Now I do it again in both directions and I get my dope at 100 yards = 1.5 and my dope at 175 = 5.2. I can do it again and get my dope at 75 and 200. Do it again as needed to fill out all the distances needed. It takes about 3 minutes to shoot the 2 distances and another 5 minutes to get every distance I need from the weaponized math. Try it and see if it matches up with your actual data!

That's what I'm looking for Thanks, We have the same deal with our matches. Unknown distance, but an evil MD- only 10 minutes to get your dope. In the past I hit the farthest and tried to split the distance into thirds. Compare that to my dope. Wasn't working out too well. I like your half-split method.

 

[goosed]

Scaled for 22lr:

50 = zero
75 = 1mil
100 = SHOOT IT! (actual dope)
125 = 100yd dope x 1.75
150 = 125yd dope x 1.45
and so on...

It will get you a very rough estimate as is, but to take it to the next level takes a little more playing around than with centerfire as 22lr drops so darn fast. Depending on barrel/ammo you might need to adjust increments slightly. For instance 30yd increments instead of 25yd actually lines up nearly perfect every time for my setup. So there is a bit of trial and error if you want to really get it dialed in, but once you figure out your increments it's amazing how well it works.



Or another shortcut we've found to work fairly well in our area to get new shooters without any dope in the ballpark quickly.
Zero at 50
Shoot for dope at 100yds.
Add .5mil for every 10yds past 100yds.
At 200yds add .6mil for every 10yds
Trust the bullet and make adjustments as needed. For instance you might need to start adding .6mil as early as 150yds and/or use .7mil per 10yds beyond 200yds, or so on.

 

[chevy_man]

I put the data in strelok and go. 2 minutes ranging targets and writing it on the card. 1-2 minutes to type it into the calculator and write down the output.

Yes, I have spare devices with current data in my range bag and truck. Also have the old fudd card taped to the stock with a chart depending on the match and how fast paced it will be.

 

[fullsemiauto556]

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/try-dope-for-22-rimfire.6981709/