Gunsmithing Questions about brakes and muzzle threading

[Rodney65]

I recently purchased a 6.5cm takeoff Tikka Varmint barrel someone had threaded and had a custom made brake put on. I don't know if I will like the brake, it reminds me of the factory Savage ones. All my current brakes are 5/8x24 and they go on maybe a full turn or so before I feel resistance.

So a few dumb questions: How can I determine the thread pitch on this muzzle? Do you think this style of brake would be effective and worth keeping or is it just a loudener? If I do keep it how would I time it, a crush washer or shims or something?

 

[hlee]

Radial brakes generally do a good job of braking while maintaining the contour of the rifle barrel. Some have the advantage of not needing to be timed. That one appears to have a closed bottom, requiring timing, but probably kicking up less dust than a brake with holes in the bottom.

The laterally porter brakes we generally see around here tend to be much more “chonky” than their radial brethren, but also tend to be more effective brakes.

I have a couple of hunting rifles with radial brakes, and they are fine for the intended purpose.

 

[ma smith]

How can I determine the thread pitch on this muzzle?

You can check this with a TPI gauge and a caliper (OD).
see, eg https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Standard-SAE-Thread-Gauge/1003087518

 

[M4guru]

I recently purchased a 6.5cm takeoff Tikka Varmint barrel someone had threaded and had a custom made brake put on. I don't know if I will like the brake, it reminds me of the factory Savage ones. All my current brakes are 5/8x24 and they go on maybe a full turn or so before I feel resistance.

So a few dumb questions: How can I determine the thread pitch on this muzzle? Do you think this style of brake would be effective and worth keeping or is it just a loudener? If I do keep it how would I time it, a crush washer or shims or something?

Many light hunting barrels have 7/16x28 or 9/16x24 threads because they aren't large enough in OD to adequately cut 5/8x24 threads and have enough shoulder.

 

[LeftyJason]

I recently purchased a 6.5cm takeoff Tikka Varmint barrel someone had threaded and had a custom made brake put on. I don't know if I will like the brake, it reminds me of the factory Savage ones. All my current brakes are 5/8x24 and they go on maybe a full turn or so before I feel resistance.

So a few dumb questions: How can I determine the thread pitch on this muzzle? Do you think this style of brake would be effective and worth keeping or is it just a loudener? If I do keep it how would I time it, a crush washer or shims or something?

You have a picture with the brake off?

There are a few bad ways to make threads. One of those is threading til the matching part goes on. That means that the pitch diameter is likely too big. Proper ways to check that is thread wires with a micrometer, or with a pitch diameter mic. Pd mics are expensive.
$500 just for the mic.

$90 for one anvil set. This case 14-24 tpi.

$500 for the full set of anvils. 3.5-64 tpi.

Many light hunting barrels have 7/16x28 or 9/16x24 threads because they aren't large enough in OD to adequately cut 5/8x24 threads and have enough shoulder.

Tikka varmint are big enough for a 5/8. Lites are the ones too small.

 

[Rodney65]

You have a picture with the brake off?

There are a few bad ways to make threads. One of those is threading til the matching part goes on. That means that the pitch diameter is likely too big. Proper ways to check that is thread wires with a micrometer, or with a pitch diameter mic. Pd mics are expensive.
$500 just for the mic.
View attachment 8525098
$90 for one anvil set. This case 14-24 tpi.
View attachment 8525099
$500 for the full set of anvils. 3.5-64 tpi.
View attachment 8525101


Tikka varmint are big enough for a 5/8. Lites are the ones too small.

Here it is next to a 5/8x24 CTR barrel.

The brake threads about halfway onto the Tikka barrel. The 5/8x24 thread protector goes less than two turns onto the stainless barrel so they're very close.

The seller told me it was done by a reputable gunsmith. I just assumed it was a metric thread I was unfamiliar with. The barrel and brake were pretty inexpensive.

 

[Rodney65]

Radial brakes generally do a good job of braking while maintaining the contour of the rifle barrel. Some have the advantage of not needing to be timed. That one appears to have a closed bottom, requiring timing, but probably kicking up less dust than a brake with holes in the bottom.

The laterally porter brakes we generally see around here tend to be much more “chonky” than their radial brethren, but also tend to be more effective brakes.

I have a couple of hunting rifles with radial brakes, and they are fine for the intended purpose.

How do you think it would compare to an APA Little Bastard or a Heathen?

 

[hlee]

How do you think it would compare to an APA Little Bastard or a Heathen?

Idk about the heathen, but the radial brake is probably less effective than a little bastard, based on the couple of radials and one little bastard that I own. Then again, the radials are on long action, light weight bolt action hunting rifles, and the little bastard is on a heavy 6.5 Grendel ar15.

Overall, I don’t have any complaints against radial brakes. The knock on them is generally that they kick up more dirt when shooting prone.

 

[Rodney65]

Idk about the heathen, but the radial brake is probably less effective than a little bastard, based on the couple of radials and one little bastard that I own. Then again, the radials are on long action, light weight bolt action hunting rifles, and the little bastard is on a heavy 6.5 Grendel ar15.

Overall, I don’t have any complaints against radial brakes. The knock on them is generally that they kick up more dirt when shooting prone.

Well maybe I will get a crush washer to time it and just use this one then.

 

[LeftyJason]

Here it is next to a 5/8x24 CTR barrel.

The brake threads about halfway onto the Tikka barrel. The 5/8x24 thread protector goes less than two turns onto the stainless barrel so they're very close.

The seller told me it was done by a reputable gunsmith. I just assumed it was a metric thread I was unfamiliar with. The barrel and brake were pretty inexpensive.

M16x1 is close in size to 5/8. Going to something weird like that seems off. You can also see how well the threads mesh with each other.

Also take a ruler and see how the thread lines up. 6 threads should line up exactly with 1/4", or 12 threads at 1/2" if it is a 24tpi.. If it is off it's something else.

You could also buy any diameter thread bolt or tap that matches the tpi (*- 24tpi or *- 1.0 for metric). One of those should match exactly.

24tpi vs 1.0 metric

 

[Rodney65]

M16x1 is close in size to 5/8. Going to something weird like that seems off. You can also see how well the threads mesh with each other.

Also take a ruler and see how the thread lines up. 6 threads should line up exactly with 1/4", or 12 threads at 1/2" if it is a 24tpi.. If it is off it's something else.

You could also buy any diameter thread bolt or tap that matches the tpi (*- 24tpi or *- 1.0 for metric). One of those should match exactly.

24tpi vs 1.0 metric
View attachment 8525255

Okay I feel kind of stupid and apologize for wasting everyone's time but I think the threads just had thread locker or something on them. I interlocked them like you said and they seemed identical.

After cleaning and oiling I was able to work my 5/8-24 brake on, although there is still considerable resistance after a few turns. I was worried I was going to cross thread something so I hadn't been torquing hard. Every other brake I have has just spun right on.

Thank you to everyone for the replies. I did learn a few things.

 

[LeftyJason]

Okay I feel kind of stupid and apologize for wasting everyone's time but I think the threads just had thread locker or something on them. I interlocked them like you said and they seemed identical.

After cleaning and oiling I was able to work my 5/8-24 brake on, although there is still considerable resistance after a few turns.

Thank you to everyone for the replies. I did learn a few things.

Dude. You're good. We have all done something like that at least 3 times. At least you didn't spend money on getting something else or having to take it to someone else.

If you learned something it's not a waste.

Take a brass or stainless bristle brush to the threads. Should help clean them out.

 

[Rodney65]

Dude. You're good. We have all done something like that at least 3 times. At least you didn't spend money on getting something else or having to take it to someone else.

If you learned something it's not a waste.

Take a brass or stainless bristle brush to the threads. Should help clean them out.

Thanks again for the advice. I guess all I have to figure out now is how to time the radial brake if I decide to use it on my CTRs.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

You could save alot of time, money and frustration by ordering one of these:

0- 1" Screw Thread Micrometer .0001" Graduation Anvil NEW ^} | eBay

Pitch Anvil Pair #1 Anvil Pair #2 Anvil Pair #3 Anvil Pair #4 Anvil Pair #5. OF ANVIL PAIRS5. 5 pairs of anvil # 1-5. accuracy of <0.3µm +(L(mm)/1200) µm. PITCH RANGE IN MM0.4-0.5,0.6-0.9,1-1.75,2-3,3.5-5.

www.ebay.com

 

[Wannashootit]

Thanks again for the advice. I guess all I have to figure out now is how to time the radial brake if I decide to use it on my CTRs.

Shims are an option, or the fugly crush washer...