Sooooo, after seeing a couple finished products and watching a few youtube videos I decided to spray paint a gun (doesn't that just sound awful). I picked a gun I wasn't so concerned with (mossberg 590 M) which is my beside sleeper. The painting process went well and I was thrilled with the overall look of the gun when I got finished... Here comes that word, BUT, the paint had turned powdery and would come off onto your hands! It would even smear if you wiped it.. It was a rainy night with moisture in the air but I was inside my garage with the door closed.. Anybody have any thoughts or recommendations.. I was using the rustoleum paint which multiple people have used with success..
rattle can jobs
- Thread starter gasguy2020
- Start date
I cleaned it with a product that was suppose to removed the oils and lubricants from the gun
I use the rustoleum 2x paint and it holds well and sprays well with the exception of one bottle. That one bottle was spraying paint that seemed to stay wet and sticky for long. Almost like it didnt want to dry. I also had that paint run on me multiple times. Every other spray bottle though, have worked real smooth for me. And i have painted a lot.
Yeah, idk...
maybe you didnt shake the can enough, or the paint was bad...
I just use alcohol to clean the surfaces...
I had a similar thing happen with the first gun I painted. Find a super flat clear coat and put that on and it makes it a lot better. Especially if you use a couple of layers
I have typically used the "camo" paint because its flat and the right colors. I think it is rustoleum.. I have always wiped everything with acetone before painting. Ive had good success with durability.... as much as you can expect from spray paint.
Just a few of my paintjobs can be found below.
www.snipershide.com
Now that i remember, i did have a paint bottle that was somewhat powdery when applying. Do you have a picture of your bottle that did that? It may or may not be the same type as mine.
Help me overcome my fears...
I’ve accumulated a bunch of high-end all-factory black rifles — KAC SR-25’s, SR-15’s, Noveske’s, LMT’s, some mid-range POF’s, etc. But... they’re all still black. I hate black. I’ve never rattle-canned anything other than steel plates on my range, but here I sit with a bunch of brand new...
www.snipershide.com
Now that i remember, i did have a paint bottle that was somewhat powdery when applying. Do you have a picture of your bottle that did that? It may or may not be the same type as mine.
I can take a picture of the can but not sure how to post it to the forum. I sprayed from 4 different cans.. Im wondering if spraying multiple layers had something to do with it?? maybe I wasn't giving the first layer enough time of drying ( I waited about 15 min between) before applying other layers..Just a few of my paintjobs can be found below.
Help me overcome my fears...
I’ve accumulated a bunch of high-end all-factory black rifles — KAC SR-25’s, SR-15’s, Noveske’s, LMT’s, some mid-range POF’s, etc. But... they’re all still black. I hate black. I’ve never rattle-canned anything other than steel plates on my range, but here I sit with a bunch of brand new...
Now that i remember, i did have a paint bottle that was somewhat powdery when applying. Do you have a picture of your bottle that did that? It may or may not be the same type as mine.
Try soaking the cans in hot water before and between coats. It made a big difference for me in how the paint applied and dried.
Was it the high heat paint? I used high heat black grill paint once and it did the same thing. It would leave powdery smears everywhere like rubbing charcoal.
Only paint that’s done that for me
Only paint that’s done that for me
No I dont think it was a high heat paint. It was just the rustoleum camo paint I got from Wal Mart
Humidity will affect the rattle can paint. I wait for a dry day, heat the part or gun in front of a radiant heater and heat the cans in water hot from the tap that Ive put in a bucket.
Fog the first few coats on until you get a base, allowing to "off gas" between coats 5-10 minutes will usually do it. Off gas is when the cariers for the pigment have evaporated but the paint hasnt set yet.
Once you have your base of paint fogged on have at it with heavier coats, but not too heavy allowing 20 or so minutes to cure between coats.
Getting the paint warm allows the carrier solvents to evaporate quickly and helps avoid runs. ample cure time between coats helps the paint get good and hard.
Allow to fully cure in an air conditioned room- cool in the sumer, warm in the winter- for several weeks before you shoot or assemble.
Fog the first few coats on until you get a base, allowing to "off gas" between coats 5-10 minutes will usually do it. Off gas is when the cariers for the pigment have evaporated but the paint hasnt set yet.
Once you have your base of paint fogged on have at it with heavier coats, but not too heavy allowing 20 or so minutes to cure between coats.
Getting the paint warm allows the carrier solvents to evaporate quickly and helps avoid runs. ample cure time between coats helps the paint get good and hard.
Allow to fully cure in an air conditioned room- cool in the sumer, warm in the winter- for several weeks before you shoot or assemble.
Clean with acetone or denatured alcohol use rust oleum or krylon, also depending on the finish you have to use a base coat that is self etching.
If you had white come through on the color like a frost, that’s moisture trap.
wipe it off and do it again on a dryer day.
Heat the cans in hot water so they atomize, put a fan in the garage to move the air and grab a hair dryer to heat the surface between coats
wipe it off and do it again on a dryer day.
Heat the cans in hot water so they atomize, put a fan in the garage to move the air and grab a hair dryer to heat the surface between coats
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