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RCBS 10-10 False Weight

krunchnik

The Crow
Minuteman
Apr 23, 2024
31
15
Tennessee
Hey
Wondering if anyone here has ever had an RCBS beam scale that was reading incorrectly-
If you have how did you correct it if at all?
Mine reads approximately .1-.5 grains off from my other electronic and beam scales-
Was having trouble nailing down 44.0 grain measurement and the weight was fluctuating-made me think my Uniflow was causing the problem-
Nope-verified with 2 other scales and it's my 10-10 that's being facetious-
 
Are you using check weights to confirm? The Uniflow dispenses by volume, not weight. It gets close though.
I am using a RCBS 1010 scale and have verified that with a 250 grain check weight the scale is off over 1.0 grains-
Which also seems to be the same when weighing smaller increments like 44.0 grains and it's off by .2-.4-
 
I have now talked to RCBS and got the well when things age they sometimes wear different-the reliability comes from the opposite end of the pointer and with age and use they degrade in accuraccy-
But no fix I guess or even talk about it-
 
The threaded poise on the -10 scales can be a source on problems. The -5 series scales are much better if you’re going to use a beam scale. Don’t use my beam scale anymore but keep it around as an analog backup.
 
The threaded poise on the -10 scales can be a source on problems. The -5 series scales are much better if you’re going to use a beam scale. Don’t use my beam scale anymore but keep it around as an analog backup.
I also have a Lyman Pro 500 that's accurate but I don't like the lightweight plastic-it slides around too easy-
After my conversation with RCBS I gathered the correct response is to junk my scale-
 
I am using a RCBS 1010 scale and have verified that with a 250 grain check weight the scale is off over 1.0 grains-
Which also seems to be the same when weighing smaller increments like 44.0 grains and it's off by .2-.4-
Use check weights as close in weight to your desired charge. Much more accurate than a 250gr. weight.
 
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I also have a Lyman Pro 500 that's accurate but I don't like the lightweight plastic-it slides around too easy-
After my conversation with RCBS I gathered the correct response is to junk my scale-
Before junking it and you want to still use it(I have the same scale....retired it) maybe hop over to accurate shooter .There's a member there that works ,or did ,on scales ,can't remember his name. Might be worth the time to look in to.
 
Before junking it and you want to still use it(I have the same scale....retired it) maybe hop over to accurate shooter .There's a member there that works ,or did ,on scales ,can't remember his name. Might be worth the time to look in to.
Scott Parker, but he won’t work on 10-10s made in Mexico because they can’t be tuned reliably. If it’s an older one made in USA he can tune them to the kernel.
OP- definitely buy a set of precision check weights (RCBS and others make them) and zero your scale with the combination of weights that is closest to your charge weight. This might help a lot.
 
I am using a RCBS 1010 scale and have verified that with a 250 grain check weight the scale is off over 1.0 grains-
Which also seems to be the same when weighing smaller increments like 44.0 grains and it's off by .2-.4-

Have you checked zero on it?
Make sure it's not covered in dust.
Make sure the pivot recess is clean.
Make sure the blade edge is clean and smooth.

If all of that checks out, call RCBS
 
Have you checked zero on it?
Make sure it's not covered in dust.
Make sure the pivot recess is clean.
Make sure the blade edge is clean and smooth.

If all of that checks out, call RCBS
I checked zero on my cheaper Lyman and it is perfectly zero with the 250 grain check-
My RCBS is one that is made in Mexico and I do believe I had heard those are untunable-could be why the gal at RCBS was pretty quick to tell me that they don't age well-
I have kept the scale covered with the plastic cover and stored in a steel cabinet when not being used-so not dirty or anything like that-
 
What I meant by zero was to actually set everything on zero and see where the pointer sits.
If it's off at 00.00, then it'll be off everywhere.

If it shows light, then something as simple as a tiny piece of aluminum tape on the pan can fix it. You have to tune the pan weight to the scale.

If it's heavy, then the pan can be adjusted in weight.
Some even have lead BBs in the pan that can be added or removed.
 
I have done all of the suggestions including talking with RCBS tech line -
Scale is zeroed-
Scale is clean beyond clean-
I don't trust a scale that's off by 1.0 grain at all-
I guess my point in being-RCBS will not stand behind this scale any longer-
Partly because the later Mexican made scales obviously were and are junk-
Honestly a lot of suggestions seemingly would be made at someone that shouldn't be reloading too start with-
Most every idiot knows that you need a zeroed scale to start with-
The scale would wander-4.3 grains would not stay at 4.3 grains-sometimes less sometimes more-this was established comparing with a scale that is accurate-compared with 2 other scales-an RCBS and a Lyman-
 
Two suggestions:

1) I've been where you are. IF YOU CAN POSSIBLY SWING IT in the budget, just bite the bullet and get the A&D FX120i and be done with it. No more scale problems and life is so much easier. You will kick yourself for not doing it sooner.

2) If you can't do the above, when my 5-10 wore out, before I could afford the A&D I bought a vintage Lyman M5 off eBay and it is absolutely perfect. It is made by Ohaus just like the 10-10, and is almost identical except it has slide weights instead of the rotating cylinder on the 10-10, and this is an advantage. As far as I know, the all the M5s were made in US (but don't quote me on this). It will register to the kernel (on stick powder) and did not need tuning. They are easy to find on eBay, but you might want to ask the seller a few questions since they are older, and some may be in better shape than others.
 
Two suggestions:

1) I've been where you are. IF YOU CAN POSSIBLY SWING IT in the budget, just bite the bullet and get the A&D FX120i and be done with it. No more scale problems and life is so much easier. You will kick yourself for not doing it sooner.

2) If you can't do the above, when my 5-10 wore out, before I could afford the A&D I bought a vintage Lyman M5 off eBay and it is absolutely perfect. It is made by Ohaus just like the 10-10, and is almost identical except it has slide weights instead of the rotating cylinder on the 10-10, and this is an advantage. As far as I know, the all the M5s were made in US (but don't quote me on this). It will register to the kernel (on stick powder) and did not need tuning. They are easy to find on eBay, but you might want to ask the seller a few questions since they are older, and some may be in better shape than others.
wore out ,how do you do that ?
 
wore out ,how do you do that ?
Well, it's 45 years old, and spent many years in very humid non climate-controlled spaces I used to have to load in, so "neglected" is more accurate, but it has had a lot of use as well. It still works, but could be off by 0.1gr or so each time using the same check weight, so I took it out of service.
 
wore out ,how do you do that ?
Straight from the RCBS techs mouth-
Hello Greg,

The reliability of the balance beam scale and repeatability of the balance beam comes from the counter weight which offsets the pointer end of the beam where the magnetic dampener is. If the counter weight (where the pan support is) changes over the years then this can cause issues with the calibration of the beam to the base of the scale.



Alicia D. | Technical Services Trainer
605 Oro Dam Blvd. E
Oroville, CA 95965
1-800-533-5000
 
With all due respect to "Alicia D.", I think the problem is quality of the interface between the knife-edge pivots on the beam, and the quartz (?) V-block saddles in the base. I believe this is what Scott Parker works on to tune them to single-kernel accuracy - getting that knife-edge/V-block fit as true and sharp as possible. I also believe it is the poor-quality of the materials used in the Mexican-made ones that made it impossible for him to true them properly.
 
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With all due respect to "Alicia D.", I think the problem is quality of the interface between the knife-edge pivots on the beam, and the quartz (?) V-block saddles in the base. I believe this is what Scott Parker works on to tune them to single-kernel accuracy - getting that knife-edge/V-block fit as true and sharp as possible. I also believe it is the poor-quality of the materials used in the Mexican-made ones that made it impossible for him to true them properly.
That sounds like it could be a good possibility-
 
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Y'all have 1010s made in Mexico? Mine has a CHINA sticker on the bottom of it......
About a year ago I had trouble with consistency and RCBS sent me some new V blocks to go in it. No trouble since then.
My original one was made in USA, but I broke it and sent it in for repairs. They sent me this new Chinese POS as a replacement.
Now if I ever buy another one I'll get one off ebay that's OLD like me.
 
Y'all have 1010s made in Mexico? Mine has a CHINA sticker on the bottom of it......
Well I guess that figures, it had to happen eventually. Now there will come a day soon when the ones from Mexico will have a “vintage” following and be looked on favorably because they could hold accuracy to within 0.5gr per charge unlike the Chinese crap. 🙄
 
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