Gunsmithing Recent pics and ideas

Hooper

Sergeant
Commercial Supporter
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Minuteman
Sep 26, 2005
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Central AL
Recent pics:

Ruger 77/22 Bolt knob

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Jamie's 10/22 barrel:
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This is a GM 18" 10/22 barrel. I threaded it and installed a blended thread protector.

Lou's Ruger Bull barrel conversion and AR recontour and brake install:
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I took a STD Ruger skinny barreled MKII receiver, turned the barrel down to approx. .500" and installed a suppressor grade SS 1" tube over the barrel. I left .400" of muzzle threads for the customer's suppressor and added a thread protector. The results were very good. The tube is in tension between the receiver and a SS boss I installed over the end of the barrel. New additions will be a picitinny rail under the barrel for a Tac Light.

The AR barrel was a simple transition from a heavy bull to the customers specs. I added the AAC Flash hider for suppressor use.



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Here is the common hollow void in a ruger bolt handle. I made a new fixture that will take out the problems associated with die alignment when these holes are encountered.

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A recent Remington Bolt knob install.
 
Re: Recent pics and ideas

So when you find a void in the bolt handle do you fill it with a weld and recut it or what? And on another note can you thread a SPS tactical barrel for a can and make a thread cap for it? If so I'll be stopping by your place on my way to Auburn when football season starts, I pass Shorter on my drive up
 
Re: Recent pics and ideas

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RobG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What I would like to see is a 3/4 scale knob for rimfires. The full size ones are too large for my taste. </div></div>
AZ precision will make knobs to your specs
 
Re: Recent pics and ideas

I can do the SPS no problem.

The Ruger knob was done to simulate your larger rifle for practice. When these actions are installed in a STD stock, they make for great realistic economic practice out to 250 yds.

Normally when the voids are encountered, threading them without some sort of alignment fixture would bend the shaft you just finished machining causing the knob to either not screw down or not be on the same angle you machined the shaft to. Usually there is not enough of a hole there to weaken the shaft enough to break under normal use. If there is or the handle does break, there is another fix that can be done to salvage the handle.

Thanks for the comments.
 
Re: Recent pics and ideas

Very nice work. I machined my 77/22 bolt handle down last month and ran into the same type of void. I didn't have a proper die that could thread that stainless steel,so I ended up using some JB Weld. I was quite a bit off center when I machined the shaft down as well. A machinist I'm not. Made the bolt knob out of some 3/4 aluminum stock that I had.
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Re: Recent pics and ideas

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Badshot308</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Made the bolt knob out of some 3/4 aluminum stock that I had.
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That knob looks, familiar
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should have gotten a Patent
 
Re: Recent pics and ideas

The original idea was to do what Hooper did with a B/O knob. When the threading part didn't work out,I ended up just making a simple epoxy on knob. I've wondered about the patent issue with knobs because everyone that makes them is producing either the Steyr design, the round ball that A.I.uses,or the truncated cone design. At least AZ and Hooper put there's on straight and centered.