My .308 casing will only enter about 75% of the way into my redding body die even with adequate lube and excessive force. I've tried 4X fired FGMM brass and once fired LC brass with the same issue. This is my first attempt at using this die and my previous sizing was neck only (collet). Any idea why the bottom 25% of the case wont enter? Has the brass expanded too much to even try this type of sizing? Could the die be abnormally tight?
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Redding Body Die Question
- Thread starter codemancode
- Start date
What type of press are you using and did you set the die up per the instructions that came with it? I've never encountered a situation where the brass was expanded too much to size...start with giving us a little more information on your press and die set up and also the type of rifle it was fired in.
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A little more info please.
What does the OD body of the brass measure at the base?
What does the ID body die measure at the base?
Factory chamber? If so what make?
Custom chamber? If so what reamer?
My first WAG is rifle chamber out of spec, and you have fireformed a "wildcat".
I had the same isue with my 260 i called randy at r&d he said use diff lube.. imperial wax lube fixed the prob good luck
If you're using LC brass, it might be blown out from M-240 sloppy chambers and you'll have trouble sizing them.
If you're using, as you are, FGMM brass, that probably isn't fired through a sloppy chamber, try a different lube and/or call Redding.
I use a 308 body die and have no issues using either Redding Imperial Sizing Wax or RCBS CaseLube 2, lube. I use LC, RA61, Remington, Federal FGMM brass and a few other assorted headstamps.
Chris
I tried the die in my RCBS Rock Chucker and my Lee turret press with the same results. I set the die up per the instructions that came with it.
The brass was fired threw a standard rem 700 chamber.
I'm unable to take measurements of the case at this point because i resorted to FL resizing with RCBS comp dies.
I used Hornady Oneshot lube. I started with just a little and then bumped up to dripping wet trying to get the brass to fit , but i was headed for a stuck case so i quit trying.
The brass was fired threw a standard rem 700 chamber.
I'm unable to take measurements of the case at this point because i resorted to FL resizing with RCBS comp dies.
I used Hornady Oneshot lube. I started with just a little and then bumped up to dripping wet trying to get the brass to fit , but i was headed for a stuck case so i quit trying.
I'm having the same problem with Redding body die for 338 LM. The case protrudes out by about 1/8".
No solution yet.
No solution yet.
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"I used Hornady Oneshot lube. I started with just a little and then bumped up to dripping wet trying to get the brass to fit , but i was headed for a stuck case so i quit trying."
Cases get stuck in sizer dies for ONE reason; poor lubing. Read the directions for use on the can, OneShot isn't supposed to be used "dripping wet."
Cases get stuck in sizer dies for ONE reason; poor lubing. Read the directions for use on the can, OneShot isn't supposed to be used "dripping wet."
I started with "just a little". I've FL resized thousands of casing with Oneshot and never a problem until using the redding body die.
I hate to insult anyone's intelligence. But I had that same issue for a few cases and figured out that the deprimimg pin and expander ball were screwed too far down the die body and were bottoming out on the case bottom. Check that
Measure the diameter of the case that goes in and the diameter where it stops. See if there is a huge difference. Post a picture for us to see. Have you looked to see if the neck is getting caught on something in the die?
And if I am not mistaken body dies don't have de-capping rods.
And if I am not mistaken body dies don't have de-capping rods.
Scratch the hornady one shot lube and pick up some Imperial case lube and I'm willing to bet all your problems disappear as long as your set up is correct.
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My body die does have a decapping pin. I know this for a fact because I cut it off with bolt cutters, to include the expander mandrel
And as a above poster stated "not to insult anyone's intelligence" but new dies have a coating to prevent rust and corrosion, I had to clean one die with acetone to cure the friction/sizing problem. The protective coating acted like anti skid until it was all removed and it is not like the older oil base coatings they used in the past.
It wasn't a Redding body die, which is what we're talking about.
Redding body dies do not have decapping stems to cut off.
Maybe you cut off your stem from a full length bushing sizing die, which would be kind of stupid, if you did?
Chris
All casings measured exactly .470" at the point where they longer fit into the die. This is a slightly different spot on the casing with the different brands of brass. Sorry the pics are sideways but you get the point. Does anyone know if the die is supposed to be able to accommodate casings of this diameter? I'm starting to think my chamber was cut oversized.
Once fired Lapua
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachment.php?attachmentid=18636&d=1381607696
Once fired LC
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachment.php?attachmentid=18637&d=1381607741
Once fired FGMM (excluded the 4x fired stuff)
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachment.php?attachmentid=18638&d=1381607791
virgin Lapua actually fits
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachment.php?attachmentid=18639&d=1381607816
Once fired Lapua
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachment.php?attachmentid=18636&d=1381607696
Once fired LC
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachment.php?attachmentid=18637&d=1381607741
Once fired FGMM (excluded the 4x fired stuff)
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachment.php?attachmentid=18638&d=1381607791
virgin Lapua actually fits
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachment.php?attachmentid=18639&d=1381607816
Attachments
Try another lube. Imperial wax is the best, but I've found a few things around the house works great as a case lubricant. Kiwi Mink oil in the tin, Chapstick and Mobil 1synthetic 20-50 motor oil. I use two Redding body dies and have zero problems running range brass through them. Brass has been through different autoloaders and bolt guns. I think it's a lubrication issue. Try it and see.
1) Could it be the wrong die? Try a factory round in it. A wrong die may have ended up in the box.
2) Redding Body Die does not have a decapped stem or expander. And does not touch the neck at all. You can (not recommended, but can) resize loaded rounds with one.
2) Redding Body Die does not have a decapped stem or expander. And does not touch the neck at all. You can (not recommended, but can) resize loaded rounds with one.
Pinecone
In post #20 the last photo shows "virgin Lapua actually fits" in his body die.
I keep checking this post for the answer to the problem because I have several body dies and I want the light bulb to come on if it happens to me.
One Shot® Spray Case Lube 5.5 Oz w/Dyna Glide Plus
One Shot Case Lube is the most popular reloading cartridge and tool lubricant in the market, because; Case Lube is a dry film “Boundary” lubricant that is non-hazardous, does not contaminate powders or primers, and the “DynaGlide”™ technology exceeds US Military & NATO load carrying capacity requirements by 6 times. Precision shooters appreciate One Shot Case Lube’s clean, non-sticky, quick and easy application when loading large volumes of rounds at a time. The flexible all-purpose dry film lubricant use on their other reloading tools is a major bonus.
Lube entire blocks of cases in one shot. Dries in minutes. One Shot is a non-petroleum product that will not contaminate powder or primers.
Hornady Manufacturing Company :: Reloading :: Metallic Reloading :: Tools & Gauges :: Lubes & Cleaners :: One Shot® Spray Case Lube 5.5 Oz w/Dyna Glide Plus
KEY WORDS: "dry film lubricant"
codemancode
I don't know if your a motor head and like changing your own oil in your car but oil has "Shear Strength" and creates a boundry layer between "moving" parts and allows these parts to "float" on a wet film of oil.
If you do not have any other case lubes other than One Shot "dry film lubricant" try some motor oil, Crisco, butter, whale snot or anything that will create a wet film that will make the cartridge case "float" and creates a wet film barrier between the case and die.
If the die is rough on the inside the One Shot dry lube can be scraped off the case as it is pushed into the die and cause the case to bind in the die. A wet film lube has shear strength and will let the case "float" and slide through the die.
I was just walking upstairs near the dogs water dish and my foot slipped on the "wet" floor. The light bulb came on and I ran downstairs and posted this. If you don't have any of the type lubes I mentioned above then you can try dog slobber as a last resort.
One Shot Case Lube is the most popular reloading cartridge and tool lubricant in the market, because; Case Lube is a dry film “Boundary” lubricant that is non-hazardous, does not contaminate powders or primers, and the “DynaGlide”™ technology exceeds US Military & NATO load carrying capacity requirements by 6 times. Precision shooters appreciate One Shot Case Lube’s clean, non-sticky, quick and easy application when loading large volumes of rounds at a time. The flexible all-purpose dry film lubricant use on their other reloading tools is a major bonus.
Lube entire blocks of cases in one shot. Dries in minutes. One Shot is a non-petroleum product that will not contaminate powder or primers.
Hornady Manufacturing Company :: Reloading :: Metallic Reloading :: Tools & Gauges :: Lubes & Cleaners :: One Shot® Spray Case Lube 5.5 Oz w/Dyna Glide Plus
KEY WORDS: "dry film lubricant"
codemancode
I don't know if your a motor head and like changing your own oil in your car but oil has "Shear Strength" and creates a boundry layer between "moving" parts and allows these parts to "float" on a wet film of oil.
If you do not have any other case lubes other than One Shot "dry film lubricant" try some motor oil, Crisco, butter, whale snot or anything that will create a wet film that will make the cartridge case "float" and creates a wet film barrier between the case and die.
If the die is rough on the inside the One Shot dry lube can be scraped off the case as it is pushed into the die and cause the case to bind in the die. A wet film lube has shear strength and will let the case "float" and slide through the die.
I was just walking upstairs near the dogs water dish and my foot slipped on the "wet" floor. The light bulb came on and I ran downstairs and posted this. If you don't have any of the type lubes I mentioned above then you can try dog slobber as a last resort.
Looks like my next step is to try out some different lube. I'll give imperial a shot and see how it does. I'll check back in if the casings still wont fit in the die. Thanks for all the input everyone.
A Redding Body die has to be adjusted to the exact point that it begins to bump the shoulder back by a measurable amount. It's a trial and error venture.
There is a measure in your chamber at which your case will cause a bolt closure that is slightly more difficult than a smooth, easy bolt closure. That's because the smooth, easy bolt closure was on a piece of brass that was within your headspace measurement. Any perceivable force on the bolt closure means you have a case that the shoulder is just a bit too long. This case needs to be bumped back to an acceptable length.
Sometimes this takes two or three firings (from new) to reach, depending on how hot your load may be and how big your chamber is cut.
What is CRUCIAL is that you KNOW that your chamber will take, for instance, (pulling a number out of the air here) 2.120, but it does require a little force to chamber it when a case headspace measurement is 2.121.
Your body die will have to be set up to size your bodies below the 2.120 mark, in this theoretical case. This requires a slightly lengthy trial and error exercise and you will make a couple cases too short by a thousandth or two while doing this. WORK it out. It's crucial.
A round that chambers requiring force will expand when fired and will be a bitch to extract. Hence the bumping of the body back after a number of firings.
Simply screw your body die in long, and keep adjusting it downward until it bumps back a KNOWN, LONG body back to what your rifle's chamber is sized to.
If I go to the range with let's say 2x fired brass loads, and upon returning to my shop my headspace measurement is too long on these now 3x fired cases, I can go over to my rifle and sure enough they chamber with difficulty. That means these must be bumped back before loading.
Always bump shoulders back BEFORE trimming. You'll learn this the hard way if you don't... ;-]]
Hope this clears some things up.
[edit] Look into Redding Competition Shell Holders. They come in .002 increments and will make this process much easier.
There is a measure in your chamber at which your case will cause a bolt closure that is slightly more difficult than a smooth, easy bolt closure. That's because the smooth, easy bolt closure was on a piece of brass that was within your headspace measurement. Any perceivable force on the bolt closure means you have a case that the shoulder is just a bit too long. This case needs to be bumped back to an acceptable length.
Sometimes this takes two or three firings (from new) to reach, depending on how hot your load may be and how big your chamber is cut.
What is CRUCIAL is that you KNOW that your chamber will take, for instance, (pulling a number out of the air here) 2.120, but it does require a little force to chamber it when a case headspace measurement is 2.121.
Your body die will have to be set up to size your bodies below the 2.120 mark, in this theoretical case. This requires a slightly lengthy trial and error exercise and you will make a couple cases too short by a thousandth or two while doing this. WORK it out. It's crucial.
A round that chambers requiring force will expand when fired and will be a bitch to extract. Hence the bumping of the body back after a number of firings.
Simply screw your body die in long, and keep adjusting it downward until it bumps back a KNOWN, LONG body back to what your rifle's chamber is sized to.
If I go to the range with let's say 2x fired brass loads, and upon returning to my shop my headspace measurement is too long on these now 3x fired cases, I can go over to my rifle and sure enough they chamber with difficulty. That means these must be bumped back before loading.
Always bump shoulders back BEFORE trimming. You'll learn this the hard way if you don't... ;-]]
Hope this clears some things up.
[edit] Look into Redding Competition Shell Holders. They come in .002 increments and will make this process much easier.
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I can't believe this thread the body die is the easiest die to use on the planet . You do NOT have to bump the shoulder if you do not need to.
The whole concept of the die is to be able to size as little as you need or go all the way to shoulder bump.
I would say one problem could be the die is being used too far down into he press head so the leverage is weak . Adjust the die so the sizing is done as close to the top of the ram travel . Clean the cases and the die first and use a decent lube like RCBS .
Check what is written on the die . Make sure it's the right die and not a small base die . I can resize a 308 in a Redding body die in an RCBS press with the strength of two fingers on the press handles ball. You must be doing something wrong .
The whole concept of the die is to be able to size as little as you need or go all the way to shoulder bump.
I would say one problem could be the die is being used too far down into he press head so the leverage is weak . Adjust the die so the sizing is done as close to the top of the ram travel . Clean the cases and the die first and use a decent lube like RCBS .
Check what is written on the die . Make sure it's the right die and not a small base die . I can resize a 308 in a Redding body die in an RCBS press with the strength of two fingers on the press handles ball. You must be doing something wrong .
Guys, sanity check. What's the correct procedure for cleaning Redding body die (and bushing die?) from the preservative they come with from the factory? What stuff do you use to clean them? I'm trying to exclude the possibility that I didn't clean them adequately...
Hoppies, wd-40 or just about any solvent. Nothing special needed, I use wd-40 just because it is always handy
Had the same problem with various Redding dies from full length, body, neck (bushing), and finally a F/L sizing die with neck bushing.
What I had done was switch to Imperial sizing wax on the previous loading session. Problem with that was that I was using a Forster bushing bump neck sizing die before I made the switch to the Redding die.. I was convinced that I had a bad (Redding) die, so I purchased another one. The exact same thing happened !!! I stuck 2 cases trying to make it work.
That's when I decided to go back to the Dillon case lube, which I had been using for 2 years without issue. The problem was immediately solved.
Moral of the story for me, is that Imperial sizing wax/lube (whatever you want to call it) is complete crap, it is a pain in the ass to use, and it leaves everything messy. I absolutely hate it now.
When I use the Dillon lube, and allow the alcohol to dry, so that it leaves behind the lubrication ONLY, before I start to resize, it is almost as if you started driving a car with power steering after driving around an old truck without power steering. The difference is that big in my experience when it comes to ease of pull on the handle of the press.
There is nothing better than Dillon case lube in my opinion. I shoot at least 500 rounds of .308 per month, and have for the last year +. What that means is that I resize a LOT of .308, I have resized LC, Win, Lapua, WC, and a few others with zero issue when I use the Dillon lube.
I cannot reiterate strongly enough that I was having the EXACT problem you are describing, and was convinced beyond a shadow of doubt, that I had a bad die. I did not want to wait for a replacement from Redding, so like I said, I went out and bought another. THE DIE WAS NOT THE ISSUE. Get some Dillon case lube, and never look back.
My method involves a zip lock sandwich bag. I spray 2 pumps of the Dillon lube inside the bag, and then massage the bag so that there is lube on every possible surface of the inside of the bag, and a good amount of it. I then take 25 (clean) cases, and place them in the bag, and then massage each case thoroughly around the neck/shoulder and body. Then I dump the cases into my case feeder (Dillon 1050). Once I have done that 4 times (100 cases), I start the case feeder, and proceed to resize the cases. The time it takes to complete the lubing process, allows the alcohol to dry.
It takes literally zero effort to pull the handle with the Dillon lube, and I have NEVER had what I thought was a nice smooth pull with Imperial wax, no matter how much of it I use(d).
I know that this post is going to make a lot of folks call bullshit, but I have no horse in the race, other than I solved a very annoying problem when I switched back to the Dillon lube.
What I had done was switch to Imperial sizing wax on the previous loading session. Problem with that was that I was using a Forster bushing bump neck sizing die before I made the switch to the Redding die.. I was convinced that I had a bad (Redding) die, so I purchased another one. The exact same thing happened !!! I stuck 2 cases trying to make it work.
That's when I decided to go back to the Dillon case lube, which I had been using for 2 years without issue. The problem was immediately solved.
Moral of the story for me, is that Imperial sizing wax/lube (whatever you want to call it) is complete crap, it is a pain in the ass to use, and it leaves everything messy. I absolutely hate it now.
When I use the Dillon lube, and allow the alcohol to dry, so that it leaves behind the lubrication ONLY, before I start to resize, it is almost as if you started driving a car with power steering after driving around an old truck without power steering. The difference is that big in my experience when it comes to ease of pull on the handle of the press.
There is nothing better than Dillon case lube in my opinion. I shoot at least 500 rounds of .308 per month, and have for the last year +. What that means is that I resize a LOT of .308, I have resized LC, Win, Lapua, WC, and a few others with zero issue when I use the Dillon lube.
I cannot reiterate strongly enough that I was having the EXACT problem you are describing, and was convinced beyond a shadow of doubt, that I had a bad die. I did not want to wait for a replacement from Redding, so like I said, I went out and bought another. THE DIE WAS NOT THE ISSUE. Get some Dillon case lube, and never look back.
My method involves a zip lock sandwich bag. I spray 2 pumps of the Dillon lube inside the bag, and then massage the bag so that there is lube on every possible surface of the inside of the bag, and a good amount of it. I then take 25 (clean) cases, and place them in the bag, and then massage each case thoroughly around the neck/shoulder and body. Then I dump the cases into my case feeder (Dillon 1050). Once I have done that 4 times (100 cases), I start the case feeder, and proceed to resize the cases. The time it takes to complete the lubing process, allows the alcohol to dry.
It takes literally zero effort to pull the handle with the Dillon lube, and I have NEVER had what I thought was a nice smooth pull with Imperial wax, no matter how much of it I use(d).
I know that this post is going to make a lot of folks call bullshit, but I have no horse in the race, other than I solved a very annoying problem when I switched back to the Dillon lube.
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I have used imperial wax, Lyman and Dillion lube on a pad and they all work great. I find the wax a little more convenient because it's just easier to apply and it stays put! A little dab on ur finger is good enough for 5-7 cases and cleans up easy. I have never had a stuck case with any of these lubes and if you are having issues with imperial wax you are certainly doing something wrong! But again they all work very well.
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My first try with a redding body die was with Hornady one shot, then I tried imperial, but it was my third attempt when I used the RCBS lube spray that it finally worked for me and I could size. The problem wasn't going all the way in, the problem was it was sticking and actually stretching my cases more, they were longer coming out than when they went in!
Redding dies are using a new film coating to prevent corrosion, if it is not totally removed the die will act like its coated with sand on the inside. The instructions tell you to clean the die with a good grade bore solvent and to use good grade case lube such as Imperial sizing die wax.
You "MUST" clean the die properly or else the die will be "EXTREMELY" hard to use, read the instructions.
Again, until I cleaned the die properly as per the instructions I could not size my cases.
You "MUST" clean the die properly or else the die will be "EXTREMELY" hard to use, read the instructions.
Again, until I cleaned the die properly as per the instructions I could not size my cases.
Are the instructions (for using/setting/cleaning) Redding body die posted somewhere online? I was looking for them, but couldn't find, either among my messy papers, or online on Redding site...
Mouse
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Mouse
NRA Life Member Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
Cleaning dies isn't a technical or calibrated thing, they're just bit of steel. Use a solvent like gasoline, kerosene, mineral spitits, a spritz of carborator or break cleaner or WD-40, etc, and twirl a home made swab of toilet tissue wrapped around a pencil to reach inside.
We don't properly adjust dies by "instructions'. They all work the same and we adjust them so they do the right thing. The only possible adjustments are up and down so it's not very complicated.
Cutting off a removable decapping stem to eliminate the expander ball will sure get the job done but it's about like using a sledge hammer to cut a few inches off a valuable walnut board you weren't going to use right then anyway. Die makers know what they're doing. An amatur reloader simply tossing an expander ball is usually going to cause himself more problems than he could possibly solve anyway; something has to expand those necks and using a seated bullet to do it is about the poorest way possible!
We don't properly adjust dies by "instructions'. They all work the same and we adjust them so they do the right thing. The only possible adjustments are up and down so it's not very complicated.
Cutting off a removable decapping stem to eliminate the expander ball will sure get the job done but it's about like using a sledge hammer to cut a few inches off a valuable walnut board you weren't going to use right then anyway. Die makers know what they're doing. An amatur reloader simply tossing an expander ball is usually going to cause himself more problems than he could possibly solve anyway; something has to expand those necks and using a seated bullet to do it is about the poorest way possible!
Something is awry if you're having that much of a problem with Imperial case lube. Methinks your root cause is something other than the wax.
Dillon lube is a solution of lanolin and alcohol btw. You can make it for 1/3 the cost by purchasing those components from Amazon, FYI. Make sure to buy liquid lanolin, not anhydrous lanolin.
Imperial is good for a few cases for the bolt gun. I use a homemade lanolin solution in a spray bottle when I'm loading hundreds of rounds for the AR. Also, I'm way off topic, so I'll STFU.
P.S. Guys, lube, aka lubricant is any substance used to reduce friction. Wax can be a lubricant.
For another point of view. I have used Imperial, Dillon case lube, Hornady One-shot, all with mixed success. The one I use now is Ballistol. It lubricates extremely well, and is easier to remove than Imperial after sizing. I run this on a 550, 650 and 1050. I find the sizing effort is the lowest using Ballistol.
Cleaning Your Dies
We are often asked, "How should I clean my dies?" The answer is to use the same procedures, with the same equipment and solvents, that you use to clean the bore of your rifle or handgun. Use the same diligence and effort as well, since the brushing and copper solvents will work well on any brass deposits that may have accumulated inside the die.
Another question that comes up is, "Can I do any internal polishing?" Again, the answer is, "Yes, with care!" The best arrangement is to chuck the die in a lathe, after stripping it down and removing the internal parts. Use #400 or #600 wet/dry auto body paper wrapped around a small wooden dowel. Keep the paper wet with a thin petroleum product with the consistency of WD-40 or kerosene. Using this method, you will easily be able to remove any foreign material or brass build-up from the inside of the die.
Since our dies are heat-treated to approximately 62 Rockwell C, you can polish for a long time without changing the internal dimensions. Do not use ordinary sandpaper or anything coarser than #400, as you will scratch the interior of the die surface and void the lifetime warranty.
It is very important to give the dies a thorough cleaning, after the polishing operation. They should be thoroughly washed, flushed, and wiped several times. Again, just as when cleaning your rifle, check the dies for cleanliness with several wet patches and then lube and dry patch them.
In summary, the name of the game when it comes to avoiding scratched cases is cleanliness! A little attention paid to keeping your reloading area clean, and periodically cleaning your dies, will insure that they give you years of trouble-free service.
If you have further questions, please feel free to contact our tech line (607) 753-3331
The above is from the link below
Scratched Cases: Causes and Cures | Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment
Lubricating Cases | Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment
Dealing with Headspace by Todd Spotti | Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment
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[MENTION=37563]bigedp51[/MENTION], great info, thanks!
So cleaning the dies should be like cleaning the bore and/or the chamber. What do/would you use for 338LM-sized chamber? I assume thar 45-cal brush is fine for 308-cal chamber (been using it with a patch over it).
Thanks!
Mouse
NRA Life Member Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
So cleaning the dies should be like cleaning the bore and/or the chamber. What do/would you use for 338LM-sized chamber? I assume thar 45-cal brush is fine for 308-cal chamber (been using it with a patch over it).
Thanks!
Mouse
NRA Life Member Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
Next time you're in the drug store, or your wife is getting cosmetics crap at Macys, go and look for wooden handled Q-tips.
Ask the counter lady nicely for some, or just buy them. Get a bottle of Isopropyl alcohol from the drugstore and use the rigid Q-tips to clean out any shipping oil/grease, lube and/or assorted gunk. You can twist up a paper towel and snake it through the die to dry things out.
It's not rocket science.
Chris
I'm always looking for a new sizing lubricant. I have a can of Ballistol I bought years ago. I poured some into a small container and tried it this afternoon on some 308 brass. You're right! It works great. I'll be putting this old can of Ballistiol to work!
