Reloading bench surface

Dildobaggins

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  • Jun 26, 2020
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    I built a reloading work bench about a year ago. Thing is sturdy and level as can be, but it's made of 2x4s and the top is sande plywood that is stained from locktite and grease and kind of beat up.

    It looks like an eye sore. Any ideas for a durable top surface? What do you guys use? Was thinking about painting it with porch and patio paint? Sheet metal the top and paint the legs?

    Thanks fellas
     
    I've done one with stainless which was easy cleanup, but scuffed objects up and ultimately held onto some significant beauty marks from dropping things.

    If you're so inclined, I'd recommend a pour epoxy. You can add color(s) plus a top coat that can be reapplied if needed. People do alot of bar tops with them out here, and they take a beating.
     
    I use G-Floor secured with carpet tape. Holds up very well and easy to trim around things like t-slots and other mounting systems.
     

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    The top of my bench is just plywood from the big pallet I used for lumber to make it from. It was a big pallet used for shipping large parts and toolboxes.
    Someplace in that shipment pallet was this sheet of nice plywood that I used as the top.
    Total cost to me to build that heavy duty bench was only my time and labor and a few screws from the hardware/lumber store, so basically nothing.
    I like the good grade plywood for the top as it is not so slick that things skid away but the downside of that is over the 30 years I have used it the top has gotten a bit of rough but not to the point I want to replace it as I have written down pet loads for various rifles and it is easy to just look at the top and get what info I need. The only thing I would have done different if I was doing it today would be to invest in some really nice grade marine type laminate plywood for the top. Otherewise, this thing has lasted for 30 years and I am sure it will still be there when I am gone and my kids can fight over who gets to take it home.
     
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    we went 3 2x10's on metal legs I wanted to use wood pegs and dado joints so there would not be any screws or bolts showing , then sanded the hell out of it before charring it with a torch and staining it I really should have watched the full video on Shou Sugi Ban before staining it's just a touch too dark in some places for my taste , but live and learn but routed for the t tracks to fit in place another learning experience we should have routed full length not just a part deep and long enough for the tracks to fit in ( making it a little easier to clean them out ) . I will try more of that when we start on the cabinets .
     
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    One of the neatest bench/desk reloading things I have seen and was involved with started out as a metal Govt. surplus desk and there are many types.
    He didn't have a lot of room to dedicate to this endevor at the time so we got a Govt. surplus desk with locking drawers and went from there. It was cheap at the time, heavy, and fit in where he needed it.
    He lost 1 small drawer on the right side where we mounted the press using steel plates on the botom side to sandwich the press onto the right side of the desk due to how far down the press hung below the top surface. Little bit of steel plate and a few bolts and we were there. He put a bottom into that empty hole with plywood and screws and keeps various in there as opposed to leaving them on top.
    All of the other drawers are still lockable and hold things like primers for 1 drawer, tooling in the next down, large drawer under that that stores powder as needed on the left side and on the right side he has a drawer for dies and 2 under it for brass or whatever.
    All of that in 1 location and easy to move if you unload it and dismount the press yet heavy duty and stout. Everthing you need but buy a nice comfortable chair to sit in.
    If I was going to do it again this would be the way I would go.
    To this day, it sits in his office and does other functions too such as a laptop that is easily cleared away, then he get down to bizness.
    He has progressed and now has a Dillon on top of it on the left side that works well but his Rockchucker is still on the right side and all of the drawers still work and are lockable. His kids were never able to get into it when they were young and dumb.
     
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    One of the neatest bench/desk reloading things I have seen and was involved with started out as a metal Govt. surplus desk and there are many types.
    He didn't have a lot of room to dedicate to this endevor at the time so we got a Govt. surplus desk with locking drawers and went from there. It was cheap at the time, heavy, and fit in where he needed it.
    He lost 1 small drawer on the right side where we mounted the press using steel plates on the botom side to sandwich the press onto the right side of the desk due to how far down the press hung below the top surface. Little bit of steel plate and a few bolts and we were there. He put a bottom into that empty hole with plywood and screws and keeps various in there as opposed to leaving them on top.
    All of the other drawers are still lockable and hold things like primers for 1 drawer, tooling in the next down, large drawer under that that stores powder as needed on the left side and on the right side he has a drawer for dies and 2 under it for brass or whatever.
    All of that in 1 location and easy to move if you unload it and dismount the press yet heavy duty and stout. Everthing you need but buy a nice comfortable chair to sit in.
    If I was going to do it again this would be the way I would go.
    To this day, it sits in his office and does other functions too such as a laptop that is easily cleared away, then he get down to bizness.
    He has progressed and now has a Dillon on top of it on the left side that works well but his Rockchucker is still on the right side and all of the drawers still work and are lockable. His kids were never able to get into it when they were young and dumb.
    People underestimate what you can do with reclaimed/salvage items all the time I’ve realized. My little brother built these with junk wood he found laying around or had given to him. Perspective and imagination along with a need make lots of things possible.
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    1FF7D5FB-99C5-4610-858C-8E7DF87BC627.jpeg
     
    Menards (Midwest hardware type store) has pre cut counter top material. It’s a laminate it’s stupid cheap. Cleans up great. Has a warm feeling. But could scratch if you use a utility knife for something. That’s the route I went, I’d do it again. If I had to start from scratch.
     
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    I like the floor mat idea. I use old towels on my tops currently. The mats would help with items sliding and absorb impact if item is dropped or set down hard. I like my work surface to have some grip
     
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    Mine is butcher block with neoprene pads for where I bang on stuff. That said I do quite a bit of gun work (not loading) on my work bench in the garage. That has a 5/8” plywood top on some of it and a 5/8” mild steel plate on the rest.