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Reloading for M1 and M1A

dmuldrew

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
May 24, 2002
314
33
69
Missouri
Ok I have a lot of experience reloading for my precision bolt guns, a little experience for handguns, and ZERO experience reloading for the M1 and the M1A, both which I have recently acquired.

Since it'll soon be winter here in ND, I want to be prepared for winter projects. So I'll have to buy some dies.

I have .308 dies, and have both full length sizers, and neck sizing dies. I have no 30-06 dies so I'm gonna need to purchase those. My question is, do I need small base dies for reloading for these rifles. I know of some posts here for load data. I have a Supermatch M1A, a GI Garand, and a Fulton Armory Garand with a Kreiger GI contour barrel. Help me make the cold winter here in ND productive. Thanks
 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

Handloading for competition has some great info on reloading. Zedicker has some great down loads for these rifles specifically. Do a search for Zedicker M1A reloading and I'm sure you'll get the info. I am also sure someone here will chime in and mabe have the link for what I'm talkin about.
 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

I have reloaded for 3 M1A's. Always used fl sizing die and never had a problem. With 173 pulled bullets with W748 would get .9- 1.0" out of Springfield M1A's after bedding and unitized gas system. When rebarreled with Kreiger around .6. Load to max mag lenght- 2.830- 2.840.

david
 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

Dennis,

I strongly suggest you use small base dies for your autoloading rifles.

Are they completely necessary? No, not if they were chambered with a fairly liberal reamer.

Are you planning on using brass shot in one rifle in another? If so then the small base dies will uniform your loaded cartridges for all your rifles.

If you're swapping brass between bolt-action 308s and your Supermatch, definitely go with small base dies. For both your Garands with GI chambers it's probably not needed (but with a small base ides you'll have 100% confidence your reloads will be interchangeable).

Small base dies will work your brass a little more than full-length dies -- but your brass will be closer to factory virgin dimensions for each firing.

The Zediker recommendations are spot-on.

 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

In any auto loader you should use a smallbase die...
Have to go with sinister.....
you can use full length but you will find in time that
you will have a problem....Avoid the problem Small Base..
 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

I and small bases dies AND a regular set for M1 and M1a. I could make the regular FL size work, but then who wants to keep readjusting the same die for bolt gun dimensions back and forth every time you change over from auto to bolt? Both FL and small can be made to work in an auto but having both is convenient for the above reason. Just my .02 cent. I am presuming you have a 208 bolt gun too.
 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

I just remembered that Zedicker has a down load on brass too. Once fired twice fried. Look into Forster dies. They make a National Match set autos. I believe they size the brass a little more than a standard 308 full die. Not sure if it would be the same as a small base die. I agree with offcant721, I too would rather not keep adjusting the same die for bolt and auto. Forster dies are great quality and not much more than RCBS.
 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

I stopped using small bse dies for my Supermatch and have found that it extends brass life without creating any other issues.
This is ONLY after taking measurements of sized and fired brass to be certain that a regular FL die would do the job 100% of the time.

Do get a head space measure tool so you can measure the shoulder datum on the fired cartridge and set up your (dedicated the M1A sizing) die to bump the shoulder back no more that 0.002" and you'll have no issues with the brass. Always try your sized brass in the chamber of the M1A you're firing it in, prior to loading it. That helps confirm your FL die set up.

A BIG post script here, if you're loading for the M1A and don't get full bolt closure, PLEASE don't think you'll be able to fire that round and go on. Take the time to remove the round safely without firing. Firing the round will let you buy a new scope mount, magazine, bolt, and trigger group, assuming you still have your eye sight.

As Sinister said, best not to interchange brass, but to keep a dedicated batch just for the M1A, it's easier to maintain that way.

Can't help with the Garand, never loaded for one.
Best of Luck.
 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

I think that only your rifle can tell you whether you need S/B dies.

Then, if you do, buy a second set of dies, this time S/B.

This is not so much an either/or question. Unless the rifles all like standard F/L dies, you're probably going to need both type dies for at least one of the chamberings.

In general, the Garand prefers powders no slower than IMR-4064, and bullets no heavier than 175/180gr. Exceeding these limits can risk a bent Oprod. Since they already have an intentional bend, it can be really tricky figuring out whether they are good or bad.

When port pressures are getting definitely over the top, the Oprod will dismount from the bolt. STOP right there and cease using the load.

The M14/M1A is somewhat more forgiving, but has similar kinds of limitations on burn rates and bullet weights, and for my own purposes, I choose use the same set of limits for the M14/M1A as for the Garand.

I use 42.2gr of IMR-4064 with the 175 in the M1A, 50gr of IMR-4064 with the 150/155 in the Garand, and 47.0gr of IMR-4064 with the 175 in the Garand.

Greg
 
Re: Reloading for M1 and M1A

I plan on keeping the brass rifle specific, so I won't be using brass from the bolt gun in the gas gun and vice versa. Anyone have experience using the RCBS X-die? Allegedly this die prolongs case life by limiting working of the brass while sizing. They come in regular and small base as well, the following is their spiel.

"The patented X-Die eliminates the need for repeated trimming after an initial case trim of .020" off the maximum case length. A specially designed mandrel contacts the case mouth and reduces the growth rate. Because of an extremely close tolerance between the mandrel and die neck wall, the neck wall of the case does not thicken as the case length is pushed back. Cases repeatedly sized in the X-Die will initially grow a few thousandths of an inch, then stabilize below the maximum case length with no discernable loss of accuracy or case life. Set contains X-Die Full Length Sizer Die."