I want to reload match quality ammo for my 308 and 223. I have none of the items, I’m looking for help to make sure I get quality items for this. If you could please help with manufactures, model and such so that I do not waste time and money doing it wrong. Also kind a ballpark for what it will cost for all of the equipment. Thanks for the help. Cliff
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Reloading Question
- Thread starter cliffw
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Re: Reloading Question
Well if your starting fom scratch you might want to look at the Rock Chucker Supreme kit for 319.00 comes with every thing you need but dies.for dies forester,redding.wilson,to name a few are your better match dies and cost about 140.00 to 200.00 a set.and on dies there's nothing wrong with rcbs,hornady and other cheaper dies IM
ther than that a good reloading book shood get you loading some good ammo.
Well if your starting fom scratch you might want to look at the Rock Chucker Supreme kit for 319.00 comes with every thing you need but dies.for dies forester,redding.wilson,to name a few are your better match dies and cost about 140.00 to 200.00 a set.and on dies there's nothing wrong with rcbs,hornady and other cheaper dies IM
ther than that a good reloading book shood get you loading some good ammo.Re: Reloading Question
As far as powder varget has worked great for me. I use sierra match kings for bullets. 168 for the 308 and 69 for the 223.
As far as powder varget has worked great for me. I use sierra match kings for bullets. 168 for the 308 and 69 for the 223.
Re: Reloading Question
We need some more info on your guns, because that drives some of the components.
For reloading equipment what's your budget?
Here was my setup from scratch when I started reloading for both .308 & .223 and it's served me well:
RCBS Rockchucker press
RCBS Chargemaster 1500
Redding S-type FL bushing die set for both calibers
RCBS shell holders
RCBS die mount primer tool
Lyman Accutrimmer hand trimmer (w a full set of pilots)
Things I added later
RCBS casemate prep center
Giraud trimmer
.308 Components:
powder- Varget or RL-15
Bullets- 175 SMK or 178/168 AMAX
brass- Win or Lapua (Win is MUCH cheaper and shoots as well)
Primers - any brand. I like Fed 210. I also see no difference between "match" and regular primers for accuracy, even at 1000 yds
.223 components:
Powder- TAC or RL-15
bullets- 77 or 69 SMK
Brass- LC or Win
Primers- any. I've even had good accuracy with Wolf 5.56 SRM primers
My list is not the end all be all. It's just what's worked very well for me. I don't have experience with other brands not listed, but it doesn't mean other stuff won't work well too.
We need some more info on your guns, because that drives some of the components.
For reloading equipment what's your budget?
Here was my setup from scratch when I started reloading for both .308 & .223 and it's served me well:
RCBS Rockchucker press
RCBS Chargemaster 1500
Redding S-type FL bushing die set for both calibers
RCBS shell holders
RCBS die mount primer tool
Lyman Accutrimmer hand trimmer (w a full set of pilots)
Things I added later
RCBS casemate prep center
Giraud trimmer
.308 Components:
powder- Varget or RL-15
Bullets- 175 SMK or 178/168 AMAX
brass- Win or Lapua (Win is MUCH cheaper and shoots as well)
Primers - any brand. I like Fed 210. I also see no difference between "match" and regular primers for accuracy, even at 1000 yds
.223 components:
Powder- TAC or RL-15
bullets- 77 or 69 SMK
Brass- LC or Win
Primers- any. I've even had good accuracy with Wolf 5.56 SRM primers
My list is not the end all be all. It's just what's worked very well for me. I don't have experience with other brands not listed, but it doesn't mean other stuff won't work well too.
Re: Reloading Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 280rem.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well if your starting fom scratch you might want to look at the Rock Chucker Supreme kit for 319.00 comes with every thing you need but dies.for dies forester,redding.wilson,to name a few are your better match dies and cost about 140.00 to 200.00 a set.and on dies there's nothing wrong with rcbs,hornady and other cheaper dies IMther than that a good reloading book shood get you loading some good ammo. </div></div>
What he said. Been using a Rock Chucker for 30 years. It may not be as fast as a progressive, but it is reliable and RCBS stands behind their products. The front part of the Speer manual is an excellent read for reloading.
Don't forget to add case gauges for your calibers, and a caliper of at least 6" capacity. A case trimmer.
You'll find other small tools you need as you progress. Stuff like primer pocket reamers, maybe the Hornady bushing set to measure from bullet ogives to base when seating. Lee factory crimp die if you decide to crimp. The Lee universal deprimer is a great tool, it saves decapping pins. Match micrometer seating dies like Redding seat from the ogive for consistent depth.
You may need a primer pocket swage if you use military brass with crimped primers. A Dillon pocket swage is expensive but worth it, but the RCBS tool works.
You'll find all sorts of little stuff you may need. It's great fun to produce your ammo that's more accurate than factory, tailored for your guns, and cheaper to boot.
Brass prep is the only real chore, at least to me. It's also the most important part for consistency and I labor at it.
Oh, and a stuck case puller for when you stick the first case in the die. It will happen. It saves frustration, time, and maybe a die.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 280rem.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well if your starting fom scratch you might want to look at the Rock Chucker Supreme kit for 319.00 comes with every thing you need but dies.for dies forester,redding.wilson,to name a few are your better match dies and cost about 140.00 to 200.00 a set.and on dies there's nothing wrong with rcbs,hornady and other cheaper dies IM
ther than that a good reloading book shood get you loading some good ammo. </div></div>What he said. Been using a Rock Chucker for 30 years. It may not be as fast as a progressive, but it is reliable and RCBS stands behind their products. The front part of the Speer manual is an excellent read for reloading.
Don't forget to add case gauges for your calibers, and a caliper of at least 6" capacity. A case trimmer.
You'll find other small tools you need as you progress. Stuff like primer pocket reamers, maybe the Hornady bushing set to measure from bullet ogives to base when seating. Lee factory crimp die if you decide to crimp. The Lee universal deprimer is a great tool, it saves decapping pins. Match micrometer seating dies like Redding seat from the ogive for consistent depth.
You may need a primer pocket swage if you use military brass with crimped primers. A Dillon pocket swage is expensive but worth it, but the RCBS tool works.
You'll find all sorts of little stuff you may need. It's great fun to produce your ammo that's more accurate than factory, tailored for your guns, and cheaper to boot.
Brass prep is the only real chore, at least to me. It's also the most important part for consistency and I labor at it.
Oh, and a stuck case puller for when you stick the first case in the die. It will happen. It saves frustration, time, and maybe a die.
Re: Reloading Question
All the above is right and accurate! RCBS is great stuff, I have a Lyman Tmag II press and it works great for me. I like RCBS dies, and I pick and choose from the other brands as far as case trimmers and so on. I just got a Lee clasic cast press to load for a cheytac. It is strong, and heavy duty. It should work well for what im going to do with it. Reloading is alittle work, but I enjoy it a great deal. Good luch and have fun!
All the above is right and accurate! RCBS is great stuff, I have a Lyman Tmag II press and it works great for me. I like RCBS dies, and I pick and choose from the other brands as far as case trimmers and so on. I just got a Lee clasic cast press to load for a cheytac. It is strong, and heavy duty. It should work well for what im going to do with it. Reloading is alittle work, but I enjoy it a great deal. Good luch and have fun!
Re: Reloading Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Notso</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We need some more info on your guns, because that drives some of the components.
For reloading equipment what's your budget?
Here was my setup from scratch when I started reloading for both .308 & .223 and it's served me well:
RCBS Rockchucker press
RCBS Chargemaster 1500
Redding S-type FL bushing die set for both calibers
RCBS shell holders
RCBS die mount primer tool
Lyman Accutrimmer hand trimmer (w a full set of pilots)
Things I added later
RCBS casemate prep center
Giraud trimmer
.308 Components:
powder- Varget or RL-15
Bullets- 175 SMK or 178/168 AMAX
brass- Win or Lapua (Win is MUCH cheaper and shoots as well)
Primers - any brand. I like Fed 210. I also see no difference between "match" and regular primers for accuracy, even at 1000 yds
.223 components:
Powder- TAC or RL-15
bullets- 77 or 69 SMK
Brass- LC or Win
Primers- any. I've even had good accuracy with Wolf 5.56 SRM primers
My list is not the end all be all. It's just what's worked very well for me. I don't have experience with other brands not listed, but it doesn't mean other stuff won't work well too.
</div></div>
The 308 and 223 are both Knights, Mk11 mod 0 and the sr15. As to the budget like everyone want to save money but know that you get what you pay for, so I would rather pay for good stuff the first time.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Notso</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We need some more info on your guns, because that drives some of the components.
For reloading equipment what's your budget?
Here was my setup from scratch when I started reloading for both .308 & .223 and it's served me well:
RCBS Rockchucker press
RCBS Chargemaster 1500
Redding S-type FL bushing die set for both calibers
RCBS shell holders
RCBS die mount primer tool
Lyman Accutrimmer hand trimmer (w a full set of pilots)
Things I added later
RCBS casemate prep center
Giraud trimmer
.308 Components:
powder- Varget or RL-15
Bullets- 175 SMK or 178/168 AMAX
brass- Win or Lapua (Win is MUCH cheaper and shoots as well)
Primers - any brand. I like Fed 210. I also see no difference between "match" and regular primers for accuracy, even at 1000 yds
.223 components:
Powder- TAC or RL-15
bullets- 77 or 69 SMK
Brass- LC or Win
Primers- any. I've even had good accuracy with Wolf 5.56 SRM primers
My list is not the end all be all. It's just what's worked very well for me. I don't have experience with other brands not listed, but it doesn't mean other stuff won't work well too.
</div></div>
The 308 and 223 are both Knights, Mk11 mod 0 and the sr15. As to the budget like everyone want to save money but know that you get what you pay for, so I would rather pay for good stuff the first time.
Re: Reloading Question
Since you're starting out, buy Lapua brass only - that will ensure best quality brass - no need to: turn necks or worry about neck thickness uniformity, weight sort brass, etc..
John Barsness' Advanced Reloading DVD (~$20) - do a google search.
Quality bullets, such as Berger, Hornady A-Max, Sierra Match King's, Sierra BlitzKing's (very accurate).
Corresponding Load Manuals for your bullet of choice. Then read the manual closely and use their recommendations for starting loads. Every rifle is different and what works for my 223 or 308 will most certainly not be of any use to you and could be downright dangerous. So take your time and do it right.
Build a rock solid loading bench in a QUIET location, free of excessive moisture exposure (i.e. mildew laden basements are no good.).
For safety's sake purchase a fire extinguisher - especially if there are children in the house.
Quality dial Micrometer (see Midway.com or Sinclair's websites)
Get a digital scale - Lyman, RCBS, etc.
Redding Competition Neck Sizing Dies with bushings. However, if you have an autoloader, you must full-length resize.
If you do get bushing dies, load a dummy round (no primer, no powder) into your Lapua brass and using your mircometer measure the diameter, at a couple locations, across the neck. Take that diameter and subtract 0.001" and use that for your bushing dimension.
RCBS Hand primer tool
RCBS Rockchucker press or Redding T7 turret press, or Lyman single stage press
Sinclair concentricity gage - for case runout
Quality powder - Hodgdon's Varget, H4895, H322, H335; Ramshot's TAC, Exterminator; IMR's 8028X, etc. Don't buy all of them, but consult the loading manuals and chose one or two per cartridge.
Hornady OAL gage
Case loading blocks - see Sinclair's
Primers: Remington 7 1/2m(for 223); and Federal 210m (For 308). CCI benchrest primers work great too.
Since you're starting out, buy Lapua brass only - that will ensure best quality brass - no need to: turn necks or worry about neck thickness uniformity, weight sort brass, etc..
John Barsness' Advanced Reloading DVD (~$20) - do a google search.
Quality bullets, such as Berger, Hornady A-Max, Sierra Match King's, Sierra BlitzKing's (very accurate).
Corresponding Load Manuals for your bullet of choice. Then read the manual closely and use their recommendations for starting loads. Every rifle is different and what works for my 223 or 308 will most certainly not be of any use to you and could be downright dangerous. So take your time and do it right.
Build a rock solid loading bench in a QUIET location, free of excessive moisture exposure (i.e. mildew laden basements are no good.).
For safety's sake purchase a fire extinguisher - especially if there are children in the house.
Quality dial Micrometer (see Midway.com or Sinclair's websites)
Get a digital scale - Lyman, RCBS, etc.
Redding Competition Neck Sizing Dies with bushings. However, if you have an autoloader, you must full-length resize.
If you do get bushing dies, load a dummy round (no primer, no powder) into your Lapua brass and using your mircometer measure the diameter, at a couple locations, across the neck. Take that diameter and subtract 0.001" and use that for your bushing dimension.
RCBS Hand primer tool
RCBS Rockchucker press or Redding T7 turret press, or Lyman single stage press
Sinclair concentricity gage - for case runout
Quality powder - Hodgdon's Varget, H4895, H322, H335; Ramshot's TAC, Exterminator; IMR's 8028X, etc. Don't buy all of them, but consult the loading manuals and chose one or two per cartridge.
Hornady OAL gage
Case loading blocks - see Sinclair's
Primers: Remington 7 1/2m(for 223); and Federal 210m (For 308). CCI benchrest primers work great too.
Re: Reloading Question
You all can keep you bench mounted presses.
I like a small arbor press and Wilson dies.
Lee hand held case length trimmer.
Any brand primer pocket cleaner, neck deburring tool and inside neck brushes.
Lee priming tool.
RCBS Chargemaster.
Brass - LAPUA is of course my first choice, but I like Hornady Match as well.
Bellets - SMKs for target, Barnes for hunting in the 308, Berger or Barts 52 gr for me, slower twist barrel in 223.
Primers - I like CCI BR myself.
As to why I like the arbor press and Wilson dies....
I am not tied to my bench. I can sit at the dining room table or even use the coffee table and still socialize with friends and family while breaking down and prepping brass. And, if you take just a small electric scale and a powder scoop, you can take it all to the range and work up loads on the spot.
Arbor press is a lot less expensive the a bench mounted press and Wilson dies are no more expensive than many standard dies and a lot less than "competition" styles dies yet I feel they are superior in the quality of the rounds they produce.
This of course is suggested for bolt guns as the Wilsons don't FL size, neck only. Lots of people say you MUST FL size foe a semi auto. I say horse crap. My neck sized loads worked fine in 2 different ARs, 1 in 243 the other 308.
As always, this is IMHO and YMMV.
You all can keep you bench mounted presses.
I like a small arbor press and Wilson dies.
Lee hand held case length trimmer.
Any brand primer pocket cleaner, neck deburring tool and inside neck brushes.
Lee priming tool.
RCBS Chargemaster.
Brass - LAPUA is of course my first choice, but I like Hornady Match as well.
Bellets - SMKs for target, Barnes for hunting in the 308, Berger or Barts 52 gr for me, slower twist barrel in 223.
Primers - I like CCI BR myself.
As to why I like the arbor press and Wilson dies....
I am not tied to my bench. I can sit at the dining room table or even use the coffee table and still socialize with friends and family while breaking down and prepping brass. And, if you take just a small electric scale and a powder scoop, you can take it all to the range and work up loads on the spot.
Arbor press is a lot less expensive the a bench mounted press and Wilson dies are no more expensive than many standard dies and a lot less than "competition" styles dies yet I feel they are superior in the quality of the rounds they produce.
This of course is suggested for bolt guns as the Wilsons don't FL size, neck only. Lots of people say you MUST FL size foe a semi auto. I say horse crap. My neck sized loads worked fine in 2 different ARs, 1 in 243 the other 308.
As always, this is IMHO and YMMV.
Re: Reloading Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: guntard007</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You all can keep you bench mounted presses.
I like a small arbor press and Wilson dies.
Lee hand held case length trimmer.
Any brand primer pocket cleaner, neck deburring tool and inside neck brushes.
Lee priming tool.
RCBS Chargemaster.
Brass - LAPUA is of course my first choice, but I like Hornady Match as well.
Bellets - SMKs for target, Barnes for hunting in the 308, Berger or Barts 52 gr for me, slower twist barrel in 223.
Primers - I like CCI BR myself.
As to why I like the arbor press and Wilson dies....
I am not tied to my bench. I can sit at the dining room table or even use the coffee table and still socialize with friends and family while breaking down and prepping brass. And, if you take just a small electric scale and a powder scoop, you can take it all to the range and work up loads on the spot.
Arbor press is a lot less expensive the a bench mounted press and Wilson dies are no more expensive than many standard dies and a lot less than "competition" styles dies yet I feel they are superior in the quality of the rounds they produce.
This of course is suggested for bolt guns as the Wilsons don't FL size, neck only. Lots of people say you MUST FL size foe a semi auto. I say horse crap. My neck sized loads worked fine in 2 different ARs, 1 in 243 the other 308.
As always, this is IMHO and YMMV.
</div></div>
Old school! I like it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: guntard007</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You all can keep you bench mounted presses.
I like a small arbor press and Wilson dies.
Lee hand held case length trimmer.
Any brand primer pocket cleaner, neck deburring tool and inside neck brushes.
Lee priming tool.
RCBS Chargemaster.
Brass - LAPUA is of course my first choice, but I like Hornady Match as well.
Bellets - SMKs for target, Barnes for hunting in the 308, Berger or Barts 52 gr for me, slower twist barrel in 223.
Primers - I like CCI BR myself.
As to why I like the arbor press and Wilson dies....
I am not tied to my bench. I can sit at the dining room table or even use the coffee table and still socialize with friends and family while breaking down and prepping brass. And, if you take just a small electric scale and a powder scoop, you can take it all to the range and work up loads on the spot.
Arbor press is a lot less expensive the a bench mounted press and Wilson dies are no more expensive than many standard dies and a lot less than "competition" styles dies yet I feel they are superior in the quality of the rounds they produce.
This of course is suggested for bolt guns as the Wilsons don't FL size, neck only. Lots of people say you MUST FL size foe a semi auto. I say horse crap. My neck sized loads worked fine in 2 different ARs, 1 in 243 the other 308.
As always, this is IMHO and YMMV.
</div></div>
Old school! I like it.
Re: Reloading Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: guntard007</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You all can keep you bench mounted presses.
I like a small arbor press and Wilson dies.
Lee hand held case length trimmer.
Any brand primer pocket cleaner, neck deburring tool and inside neck brushes.
Lee priming tool.
RCBS Chargemaster.
Brass - LAPUA is of course my first choice, but I like Hornady Match as well.
Bellets - SMKs for target, Barnes for hunting in the 308, Berger or Barts 52 gr for me, slower twist barrel in 223.
Primers - I like CCI BR myself.
As to why I like the arbor press and Wilson dies....
I am not tied to my bench. I can sit at the dining room table or even use the coffee table and still socialize with friends and family while breaking down and prepping brass. And, if you take just a small electric scale and a powder scoop, you can take it all to the range and work up loads on the spot.
Arbor press is a lot less expensive the a bench mounted press and Wilson dies are no more expensive than many standard dies and a lot less than "competition" styles dies yet I feel they are superior in the quality of the rounds they produce.
This of course is suggested for bolt guns as the Wilsons don't FL size, neck only. Lots of people say you MUST FL size foe a semi auto. I say horse crap. My neck sized loads worked fine in 2 different ARs, 1 in 243 the other 308.
As always, this is IMHO and YMMV.
</div></div>
I have an arbor press and Wilson Dies that collect dust now. Everything is fine until it is time to bump the shoulder.
I went to Redding S Die FL sizing dies and never looked back. SD's are now low single digits which was not obtainable with the Arbor set up for me.
I shoot a bolt gun.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: guntard007</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You all can keep you bench mounted presses.
I like a small arbor press and Wilson dies.
Lee hand held case length trimmer.
Any brand primer pocket cleaner, neck deburring tool and inside neck brushes.
Lee priming tool.
RCBS Chargemaster.
Brass - LAPUA is of course my first choice, but I like Hornady Match as well.
Bellets - SMKs for target, Barnes for hunting in the 308, Berger or Barts 52 gr for me, slower twist barrel in 223.
Primers - I like CCI BR myself.
As to why I like the arbor press and Wilson dies....
I am not tied to my bench. I can sit at the dining room table or even use the coffee table and still socialize with friends and family while breaking down and prepping brass. And, if you take just a small electric scale and a powder scoop, you can take it all to the range and work up loads on the spot.
Arbor press is a lot less expensive the a bench mounted press and Wilson dies are no more expensive than many standard dies and a lot less than "competition" styles dies yet I feel they are superior in the quality of the rounds they produce.
This of course is suggested for bolt guns as the Wilsons don't FL size, neck only. Lots of people say you MUST FL size foe a semi auto. I say horse crap. My neck sized loads worked fine in 2 different ARs, 1 in 243 the other 308.
As always, this is IMHO and YMMV.
</div></div>
I have an arbor press and Wilson Dies that collect dust now. Everything is fine until it is time to bump the shoulder.
I went to Redding S Die FL sizing dies and never looked back. SD's are now low single digits which was not obtainable with the Arbor set up for me.
I shoot a bolt gun.
