Hey guys so I reloaded a bunch of sierra .224 55 grain and 45 grain bullets in Lake city brass. I tried running a few of the rounds threw my 5.56 AR and they were hard to extract. I used Lee .223 sizing dies. Anyone have any advice? p.s. the same rounds ran easily through my mini 14.
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reloading question
- Thread starter DevilDog1988
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Re: reloading question
Hard to extract before or after firing? If after does the rifle not do it? If so then what kind of force/effort is required to manually cycle the bolt? How did they chamber? Sizing issues would most likely effect chambering and extraction of unfired rounds. Did you full length size? Full length sizing is generally considered neccesary in semi autos. Are there any pressure signs on the brass? Any odd marks at all, indicating FOD or damage in the chamber? Often with hot loads ARs will bend the rim or even tear it off but the BCG will cycle. Are these extremely light loads? I suppose too light could cause a failure to function.
A quick check would be to fire a fair quantity of factory ammo without doing anything to the rifle to see if its your reloads or the rifle.
Good luck, report back
Hard to extract before or after firing? If after does the rifle not do it? If so then what kind of force/effort is required to manually cycle the bolt? How did they chamber? Sizing issues would most likely effect chambering and extraction of unfired rounds. Did you full length size? Full length sizing is generally considered neccesary in semi autos. Are there any pressure signs on the brass? Any odd marks at all, indicating FOD or damage in the chamber? Often with hot loads ARs will bend the rim or even tear it off but the BCG will cycle. Are these extremely light loads? I suppose too light could cause a failure to function.
A quick check would be to fire a fair quantity of factory ammo without doing anything to the rifle to see if its your reloads or the rifle.
Good luck, report back
Re: reloading question
I would have to grab the charging handle by both sides of it and pull it back in order to extract it. I did not trim any of the cases but I the sixing was done by the sizing and depriming die. NOTE when I cycled the rounds i was not firing them. just pulling the charging handle to the rear fast to simulate hammered pairs.
I would have to grab the charging handle by both sides of it and pull it back in order to extract it. I did not trim any of the cases but I the sixing was done by the sizing and depriming die. NOTE when I cycled the rounds i was not firing them. just pulling the charging handle to the rear fast to simulate hammered pairs.
Re: reloading question
How many times have these cases been fired without trimming? Overly long cases can cause sticking, and pressure issues if fired. There are two different types of sizing die, neck and full length, which type do you have? Semi autos generally require full length sizing, if that is what you have make sure it is set correctly. Some rifles have tighter chambers and require a small base sizing die. Try cycling some factory rounds, if they do not have an issue, its your reloads, relegate then to the Mini 14, if they do have an issue clean and lube your AR with particular attention to the chamber and BCG.
How many times have these cases been fired without trimming? Overly long cases can cause sticking, and pressure issues if fired. There are two different types of sizing die, neck and full length, which type do you have? Semi autos generally require full length sizing, if that is what you have make sure it is set correctly. Some rifles have tighter chambers and require a small base sizing die. Try cycling some factory rounds, if they do not have an issue, its your reloads, relegate then to the Mini 14, if they do have an issue clean and lube your AR with particular attention to the chamber and BCG.
Re: reloading question
They had been fired atleast twice before just because they are military surplus and had the tarnishing marks that used brass gets. i think maybe the neck was too long. the 223 rem rounds i bought functiond smooth. what do u mean relegate them to the mini 14
They had been fired atleast twice before just because they are military surplus and had the tarnishing marks that used brass gets. i think maybe the neck was too long. the 223 rem rounds i bought functiond smooth. what do u mean relegate them to the mini 14
Re: reloading question
Troubleshoot the issue -- load a round, then try to extract it. If it's hard to extract, then your brass is too probably big for the chamber. Color the brass with a sharpie to see where it's contacting.
If you're not using a small base die, you've probably found a need for one.
Troubleshoot the issue -- load a round, then try to extract it. If it's hard to extract, then your brass is too probably big for the chamber. Color the brass with a sharpie to see where it's contacting.
If you're not using a small base die, you've probably found a need for one.
Re: reloading question
Buy one of these, learn how to use it, and get back to us:
http://www.lewilson.com/casegage.html
Buy one of these, learn how to use it, and get back to us:
http://www.lewilson.com/casegage.html
Re: reloading question
tight chamber in your AR, and looser chamber in the mini, def. trim your brass, and use a small base die...
tight chamber in your AR, and looser chamber in the mini, def. trim your brass, and use a small base die...
Re: reloading question
not sure if this will help, but, I had issues with 7.62LC brass fired out of a 240B even after trimming, hard to chamber and extract in both my Rem 700 and my Armalite AR10. I'm guessing it stretched and the shoulder of the case was just too long? Again' not sure is this was of any use but problem was solved when I used M118LR Brass or any commercial brass...was your brass fired out of a 249?
not sure if this will help, but, I had issues with 7.62LC brass fired out of a 240B even after trimming, hard to chamber and extract in both my Rem 700 and my Armalite AR10. I'm guessing it stretched and the shoulder of the case was just too long? Again' not sure is this was of any use but problem was solved when I used M118LR Brass or any commercial brass...was your brass fired out of a 249?
Re: reloading question
hey armydog, im ot sure if it was or not just because it did have the burn marks that used brass gets but since it was surplus its safe to assume that it could have been fired from a saw.
hey armydog, im ot sure if it was or not just because it did have the burn marks that used brass gets but since it was surplus its safe to assume that it could have been fired from a saw.
Re: reloading question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DevilDog1988</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I did not trim any of the cases ....</div></div>
That's it right there. Take a case, full length size it, trim it and seat a bullet in it. Use this as your 'test' case. Try cycling that through your AR and get back to us.
ETA:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/107333/lee-case-length-gage-and-shellholder-223-remington
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476992/lee-case-trimmer-cutter-and-lock-stud
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389104/lee-chamfer-and-deburring-tool
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DevilDog1988</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I did not trim any of the cases ....</div></div>
That's it right there. Take a case, full length size it, trim it and seat a bullet in it. Use this as your 'test' case. Try cycling that through your AR and get back to us.
ETA:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/107333/lee-case-length-gage-and-shellholder-223-remington
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476992/lee-case-trimmer-cutter-and-lock-stud
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389104/lee-chamfer-and-deburring-tool
Re: reloading question
I think i figured it out... on the lee deprimer die i had the deprimer pin lowered too much, i think that this made the brass wider at some point during the process, i unscrewed the deprimer a little and made some rounds and then cycled those, they worked a whole lot better and did not snag. this is the last time i will reload these cases. if anyone wants to trade accessories for once fired 223 brass send me a pm
I think i figured it out... on the lee deprimer die i had the deprimer pin lowered too much, i think that this made the brass wider at some point during the process, i unscrewed the deprimer a little and made some rounds and then cycled those, they worked a whole lot better and did not snag. this is the last time i will reload these cases. if anyone wants to trade accessories for once fired 223 brass send me a pm
Re: reloading question
I use a lot of LC brass for my 77gr loads, and I trim them to 1.750". Never had a problem with them. Full length die size them, trim them to proper length, and you should be good to go.
I use a lot of LC brass for my 77gr loads, and I trim them to 1.750". Never had a problem with them. Full length die size them, trim them to proper length, and you should be good to go.
Re: reloading question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DevilDog1988</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think i figured it out... on the lee deprimer die i had the deprimer pin lowered too much, i think that this made the brass wider at some point during the process, i unscrewed the deprimer a little and made some rounds and then cycled those, they worked a whole lot better and did not snag. this is the last time i will reload these cases. if anyone wants to trade accessories for once fired 223 brass send me a pm </div></div>
If the decapper is mounted on the sizing die (most are), having the decapping pin out too far might prevent the die from sizing down as far as you might want because the decapping die is bottoming out in the case.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DevilDog1988</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think i figured it out... on the lee deprimer die i had the deprimer pin lowered too much, i think that this made the brass wider at some point during the process, i unscrewed the deprimer a little and made some rounds and then cycled those, they worked a whole lot better and did not snag. this is the last time i will reload these cases. if anyone wants to trade accessories for once fired 223 brass send me a pm </div></div>
If the decapper is mounted on the sizing die (most are), having the decapping pin out too far might prevent the die from sizing down as far as you might want because the decapping die is bottoming out in the case.
Re: reloading question
I know that a lot of people use Lee dies but I don't. I use nothing but Redding Carbide dies and have never had a problem with them EXCEPT when I goofed up the setup on them. When that happned, I called Redding and they walked me through the setup and any problems went away. I have Dyslexia which makes reading and implementing written directions VERY difficult sometimes so getting oral help is just that, help.
I inventory all of my brass for checking the OAL (over all lenght), cracks, dents, and over all condition. I trim all of the too long cases in my RCBS case trimmer and recheck every one of them to make sure that they have the correct OAL.
I found that one other item that is quite important when reloading .223 rounds is to make sure you have adequate case lube on them. Not only does it make a difference extracting the rounds from the dies, but it also seems to make a difference on how they feed into the dies. I use RCBS's case lube and have never had a problem with getting the brass to feed throuh the RCBS Piggyback II progressive press.
I know that a lot of people use Lee dies but I don't. I use nothing but Redding Carbide dies and have never had a problem with them EXCEPT when I goofed up the setup on them. When that happned, I called Redding and they walked me through the setup and any problems went away. I have Dyslexia which makes reading and implementing written directions VERY difficult sometimes so getting oral help is just that, help.
I inventory all of my brass for checking the OAL (over all lenght), cracks, dents, and over all condition. I trim all of the too long cases in my RCBS case trimmer and recheck every one of them to make sure that they have the correct OAL.
I found that one other item that is quite important when reloading .223 rounds is to make sure you have adequate case lube on them. Not only does it make a difference extracting the rounds from the dies, but it also seems to make a difference on how they feed into the dies. I use RCBS's case lube and have never had a problem with getting the brass to feed throuh the RCBS Piggyback II progressive press.
Re: reloading question
damn reloading 223 is a pain! so i ran some different projectiles and they seemed good but when i cycled them through my rifle some of the projectiles got pushed into the brass. is this fixed by simply raising the depriming lee die??
damn reloading 223 is a pain! so i ran some different projectiles and they seemed good but when i cycled them through my rifle some of the projectiles got pushed into the brass. is this fixed by simply raising the depriming lee die??
Re: reloading question
if anyone wants a pic to see what i am talking about pm me your email address.
if anyone wants a pic to see what i am talking about pm me your email address.
Re: reloading question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: _9H_Cracka</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Buy one of these, learn how to use it, and get back to us:
http://www.lewilson.com/casegage.html </div></div>
That is your answer.
It is most likely your die hasn't bumped the shoulder back far enough.
That brass compression between the bolt face and the chamber is what makes the bolt lugs resist turning.
Until then:
Screw the die in 0.005" more and try it again.
Do not over bump either.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: _9H_Cracka</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Buy one of these, learn how to use it, and get back to us:
http://www.lewilson.com/casegage.html </div></div>
That is your answer.
It is most likely your die hasn't bumped the shoulder back far enough.
That brass compression between the bolt face and the chamber is what makes the bolt lugs resist turning.
Until then:
Screw the die in 0.005" more and try it again.
Do not over bump either.
Re: reloading question
In response to your question about the bullets being pushed in, are you using the separate crimp die? If so (assuming crimp die is also Lee) you need to lower it slightly to increase the crimp. If you are not using a crimp die, you need to invest in one. I use the Lee with good results.
In response to your question about the bullets being pushed in, are you using the separate crimp die? If so (assuming crimp die is also Lee) you need to lower it slightly to increase the crimp. If you are not using a crimp die, you need to invest in one. I use the Lee with good results.
Re: reloading question
i have a lee crimp die but no idea how to use it, sorry newbie at reloading, and the instructions are hazy
i have a lee crimp die but no idea how to use it, sorry newbie at reloading, and the instructions are hazy
Re: reloading question
sounds like a shoulder bump issue. provided the other "basics" are setup correctly. as mentioned... a black sharpie (.99 cents !!) is the best reloading tool I have.
sounds like a shoulder bump issue. provided the other "basics" are setup correctly. as mentioned... a black sharpie (.99 cents !!) is the best reloading tool I have.
Re: reloading question
Use the sharpie to color the brass or projectile to get an indication of where the brass or projectile is in relation to the chamber or barrel rifling.
Use the sharpie to color the brass or projectile to get an indication of where the brass or projectile is in relation to the chamber or barrel rifling.
Re: reloading question
The sharpie will,do the trick. Should always trim for AR's. The decapping pin should not extend more than 3/8" beyond bottom of case.
The sharpie will,do the trick. Should always trim for AR's. The decapping pin should not extend more than 3/8" beyond bottom of case.
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