Reloading Tikka T3x 308 - Fires when chambered after bolt lock

[Rommel Garcia]

New reloader here. Reloading for my Tikka T3x 308. I made sure that before I touched my first brass to reload, I read my Lyman 50th Edition Reloading manual, watched all the YouTube videos on step-by-step reloading, and read a lot on reloading forums. I was able to determine my COAL using the Hornaday OAL Gage and the length of my chamber using the Sinclair Chamber Length Gage. My COAL maxed out at 2.9605". My max chamber length is at 2.0460". This is my first time using a chamber length gage and I tried forcing the brass with the insert to move forward and it was really hard and the bolt was not closing. End up using a vise without damaging the bullet and seated the insert where the bolt closed with some resistance. My brass is Hornady and the bullet is Barnes TTSX BT 168gr. With an FL sized brass, having a case length of 2.0110" I seated a bullet and the COAL was at 2.9095". When I chambered it, it was tight so I backed it down to 2.8805" and I could close it without fighting it but still giving some resistance.

The brass is only fired once and doesn't need trimming since it's way under the chamber length. The case length after resizing was at 2.0080". I tried loading a couple of my available ammo - Hornady ELDX 180 gr (tight fit in the chamber now where before it wasn't), Core-Lokt 180gr (tight fit in the chamber now where before it wasn't and I see the nose getting scratched by the lands, never happened before) and HSM 180gr which run so smooth, no friction whatsoever. The latter has no evidence of scratching. I tried measuring the case length of it which is at 2.0050". It matches exactly what the recipe calls for. The reason I'm trying to go over it is because of what I measured in the chamber. Now I tried to load again the HSM ammo just to make sure it was still smooth and consistent. On my 3rd load, upon locking the bolt, it fired! It drilled a hole in my basement ceiling, went to the kitchen, and stopped at a wall just in front of my dryer. Thank goodness, no one was hurt. But my ears are still ringing after 5 hours.

Now my question is, did I damage my bolt when I tried to force the brass with chamber length gauge to go in further? I've upgraded my trigger using MCarbo Tikka Spring Kit and the trigger pull is at 2lbs. Put blue loctite on the trigger screw. Dropped tested it multiple times and it was not engaging the trigger. I'm thinking of taking it to my gunsmith to have them check it but is there anything I can do before then? The other thing that I did was to replace the magazine with a TIkka 30-06 magazine for longer COAL and the LA bolt stop.

This experience will not stop me from reloading . I just have to be careful next time.

 

[Edsel]

“The gauge is made of 12L14 soft steel so it will not damage your chamber.”

Unlikely, according to Sinclair’s claims…

Be very careful…

…it only takes one innocent mistake to cause a fatality.

Remember this incident as a “blessing” to forever discourage further such events.

 

[Rommel Garcia]

“The gauge is made of 12L14 soft steel so it will not damage your chamber.”

Unlikely, according to Sinclair’s claims…

Be very careful…

…it only takes one innocent mistake to cause a fatality.

Remember this incident as a “blessing” to forever discourage further such events.

Thank you, Edsel. Yeah, I read that too as well. Maybe the sear got misaligned or damaged? It pushed me to chamber round outside the house with the muzzle pointed to the ground next time. That was really scary.

 

[Edsel]

Odds are, it’s your trigger spring.

Trigger tension gauges aren’t particularly reliable.

Although I’m guilty of doing the same modifications myself, my rifles are only range toys which remain unloaded unless I’m at the range…

 

[Edsel]

I have all my triggers down to 500 grams using NRA weights, and they have been reliable.

But, to repeat - my Tikkas are purely recreational rifles.

They are my “unsafe rifles” and are never “put to the test.”

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I’ve had a Tikka fire dropping the bolt and witnessed it one other time. Both times had aftermarket springs.

This is part of the reason why I hate the tikka design how the safety has to be off to run the bolt. It’s dumb. People say it’s no big deal but it’s absolutely a safety issue as you’ve found out fire hand.

 

[Rommel Garcia]

I’ve had a Tikka fire dropping the bolt and witnessed it one other time. Both times had aftermarket springs.

This is part of the reason why I hate the tikka design how the safety has to be off to run the bolt. It’s dumb. People say it’s no big deal but it’s absolutely a safety issue as you’ve found out fire hand.

I’ve had a Tikka fire dropping the bolt and witnessed it one other time. Both times had aftermarket springs.

This is part of the reason why I hate the tikka design how the safety has to be off to run the bolt. It’s dumb. People say it’s no big deal but it’s absolutely a safety issue as you’ve found out fire hand.

This is making me think to reinstall the OEM springs.

 

[Rommel Garcia]

View attachment 8507299

I have all my triggers down to 500 grams using NRA weights, and they have been reliable.

But, to repeat - my Tikkas are purely recreational rifles.

They are my “unsafe rifles” and are never “put to the test.”

I might have to reinstall the OEM Springs. Would it be better to replace the entire trigger assembly with a reputable brand?

 

[XLR308]

I personally use an inert case for initial set up and when satisfied just pull the bullet and put that case back in the batch of brass it came with.
It sounds like you definitely have a sear engagement issue as in you have over adjusted the trigger and your brass has not had the shoulder set back far enough.
You said you had rounds that chambered easily before but now your having issues with resistance closing the bolt.
Its not your chamber and it doesn't work that way, your chamber isn't going to magically get shorter.
Look elsewhere for what is causing resistence, stuck ejection plunger, carbon build up, long headspace on sized brass, or trigger sear issue.

 

[Edsel]

I might have to reinstall the OEM Springs. Would it be better to replace the entire trigger assembly with a reputable brand?

Put the original spring back.

While I personally don’t understand the exact mechanics of the Tikka trigger - it’s like that of the Steyr AUG - mess with the tension and so many things go out of whack.