Rem 700 Finnish M39 “clone” build

[MK20]

I love the way my M39 shoots. I like the sights most of all. It is like a laser in my hand. It also managed to escape re-arsenal after the continuation war in Finland which is rather rare. I don’t want to shoot it out but I want to shoot a ton of rounds through a M39. I also want something I can take out hunting and not worry about beating up a little.

I was looking at Finn sight bases and noticed that they are secured to the barrel by screws, not solder.

Anyway, I decided to build a M39 “clone” on a 1965 Rem 700 long action I have that has a clip slot. It’s just the action, not the whole rifle. I wouldn’t ruin a nice rifle to build another nice rifle. I think I will do it in 30-06 with a birch stock like the original M39. I have the stock on my M39 to use as a pattern and I will just have to inlet it differently. I also plan on using a detatchable AICS type mag.

I plan on tig welding up the numbers and right hand range elevation slots on an original m39 sight slider and recutting them to match my 175 gr 30-06 load and re numbering.

It seems all I should have to do for the barrel is taper it properly and install a set of Finn sights. Time it correctly and I will be off to the races.

Does anyone see anything else I should think about?

@sirhrmechanic for his expertise

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Interesting project... tigging up the numbers on a ladder sight? That will be interesting.

Gutss I need to see pictures to really get what you have in mind. But sounds cool!

Sirhr

 

[MK20]

Normally it would be really hard to tig but the M39 sight is really thick as far as sights go.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Normally it would be really hard to tig but the M39 sight is really thick as far as sights go.

I still see it twisting and/or becoming brittle. Even thick metal is challenging to do with the heat involved. If it is thick, wouldn't it be easier to set the sight up on a surface grinder and remove the numbers and then re-stamp? Steel would be nice and soft and un-bent.

Again... pix will help me visualize what you are striving for and what you are starting with!

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[MK20]

Grinding and restamping would be easier as long as I can make sure to not let the adjustable slider get too loose.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

View attachment 7538184
Grinding and restamping would be easier as long as I can make sure to not let the adjustable slider get too loose.

From the looks of the slider you can just as easily grind the feet and tighten it back up. If you have access to a surface grinder you can work to tenths. And make everything slide very nicely. If you don’t have a surface grinder let me know you can mail it to me and I’ll just set it up and grind it for you some weekend.

 

[USMCsean]

If you ruin the rear sight in your endeavor, let me know. I may have a spare or two around.

 

[MK20]

Thanks guys. Fortunately, there is a surplus of cheap parts for these rifles out there right now so it seems like the time to do it. I do not have a surface grinder but my friend does have a Bridgeport mill so that is an option as well.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Thanks guys. Fortunately, there is a surplus of cheap parts for these rifles out there right now so it seems like the time to do it. I do not have a surface grinder but my friend does have a Bridgeport mill so that is an option as well.

Fixturing it in the bridgeport will be a challenge, too. But, yes, you can do it that way. High speed and shallow cuts.

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[RPN]

Why not tig and grind the cam surface - leave the numbers as is, but change the profile of the ramp. All the alterations are hidden, and the visible parts look original.

Just take it out, shoot it at known distances and file the ramp to suit actual impact at that distance, then fair the curve between the points. Seems much simpler and tidier.

 

[MK20]

If you look at the setup, the cam surface is straight and the markings on the bar are varied, vs a weapon like an AK where the bar is regulated regularly and the cam surface is curved. The straight cam surface is actually better as it lets you change the bar out if you ever change the issue service load, which the Finns were doing at the time.
The D166 load used was a 200 gr Lapua D166 bullet at around 2400 FPS.

I may end up seeing if I can find someone to show me how to do the math so I can just make my own sight bars. I could have a few for different loads.

 

[USMCsean]

Mr Mansner did it right with the rear sight.

 

[Mike@NDS]

Or, you could just shoot it first to see what the conversions are.

I like the overall project idea, kind of like a "sleeper" hot rod.

 

[fdkay]

Seems to me, it would be easier to concoct a handload that matches the sight.

 

[MK20]

true, but the point is to be able to shoot a more modern round with the rifle type that I like.

 

[Forgetful Coyote]

I love the way my M39 shoots. I like the sights most of all. It is like a laser in my hand. It also managed to escape re-arsenal after the continuation war in Finland which is rather rare. I don’t want to shoot it out but I want to shoot a ton of rounds through a M39. I also want something I can take out hunting and not worry about beating up a little.

I was looking at Finn sight bases and noticed that they are secured to the barrel by screws, not solder.

Anyway, I decided to build a M39 “clone” on a 1965 Rem 700 long action I have that has a clip slot. It’s just the action, not the whole rifle. I wouldn’t ruin a nice rifle to build another nice rifle. I think I will do it in 30-06 with a birch stock like the original M39. I have the stock on my M39 to use as a pattern and I will just have to inlet it differently. I also plan on using a detatchable AICS type mag.

I plan on tig welding up the numbers and right hand range elevation slots on an original m39 sight slider and recutting them to match my 175 gr 30-06 load and re numbering.

It seems all I should have to do for the barrel is taper it properly and install a set of Finn sights. Time it correctly and I will be off to the races.

Does anyone see anything else I should think about?

@sirhrmechanic for his expertise

Why not run the Lapua D46's to get even more "Finnish"-ish? From what Ive read they shoot remarkably well IIRC German Salazar has used them to win a State High Power prone championship....??

Also curious why not just chamber in 7.62x53R? Shouldnt be a issue opening the bolt face to fit..?

 

[MK20]

too big of a case head. hard to source brass. I have 500 pieces of FGMM 30-06 brass. D46 bullets are expensive. Hornady 178 BTHP are much cheaper, and are ballistically very good. Also, the finn sights are regulated for the 200 gr D166 bullet and not the 185 D46 bullet. Basically I want something that is as easy and cheap to load for as a 30-06 but shoots like an original M39.

 

[M77]

following with interest

 

[fdkay]

too big of a case head. hard to source brass. I have 500 pieces of FGMM 30-06 brass. D46 bullets are expensive. Hornady 178 BTHP are much cheaper, and are ballistically very good. Also, the finn sights are regulated for the 200 gr D166 bullet and not the 185 D46 bullet. Basically I want something that is as easy and cheap to load for as a 30-06 but shoots like an original M39.

I would think you could match the ballistics closely with the 208 grain hornady.
You say you want it to "shoot like the M39" but want the better ballistics of the 30'06 round.
You are not shooting an M39, you are then shooting an M700 30'06 with iron sights.

 

[USMCsean]

Why not run the Lapua D46's to get even more "Finnish"-ish? From what Ive read they shoot remarkably well IIRC German Salazar has used them to win a State High Power prone championship....??

Also curious why not just chamber in 7.62x53R? Shouldnt be a issue opening the bolt face to fit..?

That would be an excellent choice.

 

[Random Guy]

This statement created some cognitive dissonance...

I think I will do it in 30-06 with a birch stock like the original M39. I have the stock on my M39 to use as a pattern and I will just have to inlet it differently. I also plan on using a detatchable AICS type mag.

Why? Well, I have never seen an artic birch M700 stock for sale....in fact I have never seen any loose artic birch stocks except original M39 replacement stocks. The unique artic birch wood from Finland (Scandinavian countries) is what makes the M39 unique looking, IMO. It's not the same birch species we have here in the USA, that is for sure.

Second, using a detachable AICS mag would seem to negate the need to mimic an M39 rifle, and it would be way easier and way cheaper to find a M700 stock that used the AICS system - than try to fabricate a custom made stock in artic birch - assuming the proper wood material can even be found in the USA. (If one is located in a Scandinavian country, then I assume an artic birch stock blank could be found, but in the USA...I'm not so sure,) .

 

[AMG04]

Hornady's 208 BTHP may align nicely with the original sights out of the 30-06.

 

[Squidder_K]

Why worry about the rear sight? If you are using a Finnish M39 front sight you can go switch them out till you get it right. Most front sights nowadays seem to go from 8.1-8.9 mm. There are larger and smaller ones out there, but are harder to find. Or go the poorboy route and either file or add a light coat of nail polish to the front sight to compensate, till you get it spot on. Measure it, then ebay the correct size.