Remage barrel pre-fit help

[Ghillie21]

So I've gone the route of getting a trued R700 action and a criterion remage barrel from Northland Shooters Supply. I would like to learn how to correctly install the barrel to the action.

Few questions I have:

- Is it necessary for me to remove the ejector pin to set headspace? I've seen mixed answers on this topic, clarification would be nice.
- How does the full process go? As far as I understand it right now:
1. I put some anti-seize on the threads of the barrel to prevent galling,
2. Put the barrel nut wrench on, and then the recoil lug and barrel nut
3. Put the action inside the action wrench and then put the bolt with the go gauge inside the action and hand tight screw the action into the barrel until I can feel the go gauge hit the barrel (or barrel lands? im not sure what it's supposed to hit). Then make sure the bolt closes on the go gauge and not on the no-go gauge.
4. If it closes on the no-go gauge start over and try again to get it just right. Once you get it just right, put on the NSS taper-loc tool to keep the recoil lug in place and then hold the action in place and then torque down the barrel using a torque wrench on the barrel nut to about 45-50 ft-lbs.

Does this sound right? I'm a complete beginner and this is why I've gathered from researching how to do this, If anyone can give me any advice or steps on how to install my remage barrel correctly that would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!

 

[bschneiderheinze]

I have never removed the ejector pin and have done around 20 on different actions and I only use a go and couple pieces of tape measured with caliber for no go. Is 50lbs the recommended torque I usually do a little more than that but I used bugholes and they don’t slip. Getting the recoil lug straight on a 700 that’s not pinned can be annoying

 

[Ghillie21]

I have never removed the ejector pin and have done around 20 on different actions and I only use a go and couple pieces of tape measured with caliber for no go. Is 50lbs the recommended torque I usually do a little more than that but I used bugholes and they don’t slip. Getting the recoil lug straight on a 700 that’s not pinned can be annoying

And you've never had any issues with accuracy or headspace? If so, what is the point of removing the ejector then, is it just ritualistic or hear say? I wonder

 

[JMGlasgow]

You remove the ejector so you don't get the wrong headspace because you think you have hit the shoulder in the chamber.

It's 1 pin to remove the ejector and have more peace of mind ensuring the headspace is correct.

 

[JMGlasgow]

One other thing...

If you aren't confident enough to do it yourself or don't fully understand the process, have someone help you or take it to a gunsmith and maybe they would show you as well. Excess headspace can be dangerous and isn't something you want to guess on

 

[Hybridhunternm]

I always remove it as well, not saying it is 100% a must it’s just too easy not to do it. You will probably have to untighten the barrel a time or two to get the headspace right, at least I did. But you’ll get it. Some good you tube videos out there!!! After the first one it’s not nearly as intimidating. Let us know how it works out!

 

[Hudsflywater]

I will say up front that I have never swapped out a barrel with a remage nut before. But I would definitely remove the ejector pin. That pin is putting pressure on the go (or no-go) gauge that could keep it from making full contact with the bolt face. It's pretty easy to do, and really easy with one of the tools made to do it. Then when you slide it all into the chamber there is nothing to interfere with the reading on gauge, its only doing its job reading the correct headspace. The front of the gage contacts the shoulder in the chamber, the rear the bolt face, thus setting the headspace on the chamber to action for proper specifications.

 

[whatsupdoc]

If you do not remove the plunger you will need to make 100% sure that the extractor on the bolt face snaps over the go gauge rim.
It is better to remove the plunger snap the gauge into the bolt face and adjust the headspace.

Another thing is you tighten the barrel until you just feel it stop against the go gauge, then you snug the barrel nut by hand
then you open the bolt and remove the go gauge. Then torque the barrel nut and finally you check with the go and no go gauges.

Check twice, three four times. There should be some vids on you tube that may help.

 

[Ghillie21]

One other thing...

If you aren't confident enough to do it yourself or don't fully understand the process, have someone help you or take it to a gunsmith and maybe they would show you as well. Excess headspace can be dangerous and isn't something you want to guess on

I mean, as long as the go-gauge feeds and the no-go doesn't I shouldn't have excess headspace, right? Assuming I remove the ejector

 

[JMGlasgow]

That is the general idea. And the correct term is chamber, not feed. The bolt shouldn't even come close to closing on the nogo gauge. It should close with very little resistance on the go gauge. If I remember correctly, there is about .004" difference between a go and nogo gauge.

 

[Ghillie21]

That is the general idea. And the correct term is chamber, not feed. The bolt shouldn't even come close to closing on the nogo gauge. It should close with very little resistance on the go gauge. If I remember correctly, there is about .004" difference between a go and nogo gauge.

Gotcha, thanks for the help. Much Appreciated! I think I can do it myself and it will be more fun to do so.

 

[Holliday]

I have done 2 Northland Remage installs. I used a go-gauge and then scotch tape on the back of the go-gauge cut with a razor blade around the rim for a no-go. The tape is about .002” which is usually less than the no-go (.004). I was told to do it this way by Dave Manson. Yields a tighter tolerance chamber. Less brass growth on initial firing.

I remove the ejector always. For me that is a given. Make darn sure you get that go-gauge under the extractor when setting the barrel.

When setting the barrel, I set it with ever so slight friction on the go-gauge as the handle drops. The barrel may turn a bit as you torque to spec, so it may take a couple or times to get it right. I make indexing marks with a marker so I can see how much it is turning while torquing to spec. Keep your torque wrench 90° to the barrel nut wrench for proper no math 1-1 torque

Done this way my current 6.5 cm barrel grows Hornady match factory ammo grows .003 .0035 and my new Alpha brass will grow about .004-.005 on initial firing.

 

[Holliday]

Another thing is you tighten the barrel until you just feel it stop against the go gauge, then you snug the barrel nut by hand
then you open the bolt and remove the go gauge. Then torque the barrel nut and finally you check with the go and no go gauges.

Exactly! DO NOT tighten the nut with the bolt closed on the go-gauge.

 

[bschneiderheinze]

And you've never had any issues with accuracy or headspace? If so, what is the point of removing the ejector then, is it just ritualistic or hear say? I wonder

All of the rifles have been 1/4 to 1/2 I don’t use a no go because I like my rifles to headspaced tight and I can adjust it with tape. I have a stock remmy 700 223 no work with a bugholes barrel that will shoot 3/8 group all day with 80 grain sierras. I will post a pick of a 6br bugholes on a oringin before we went to prefits. 5 shot group set up same way. Would order all my barrels from Southern Precision but he doesn’t have a reamer for the 6brx or 6GT that we shoot now. I might buy him some

 

[bschneiderheinze]

If you do not remove the plunger you will need to make 100% sure that the extractor on the bolt face snaps over the go gauge rim.
It is better to remove the plunger snap the gauge into the bolt face and adjust the headspace.

Another thing is you tighten the barrel until you just feel it stop against the go gauge, then you snug the barrel nut by hand
then you open the bolt and remove the go gauge. Then torque the barrel nut and finally you check with the go and no go gauges.

Check twice, three four times. There should be some vids on you tube that may help.

My experience is most gauges with grab ahold of the the extractor. I’ve never had a a problem with it and never had problems with brass or anything else I set up two BRs that way and still have the brass after near 20 firings running at 2880

 

[whatsupdoc]

If you are new to this, while screwing in the barrel the go gauge base hits the extractor and stops and he thinks it is bottomed out on the bolt face
causing gross excessive headspace. If you remove the plunger you can snap the gauge into the boltface where the extractor does not have to ride over the go gauge rim.

 

[1moaoff]

If this is new to you pull the extractor.

 

[Ghillie21]

If this is new to you pull the extractor.

Is that different than the ejector? Same word?

 

[Mike_in_FL]

Is that different than the ejector? Same word?

Yes, extractor grabs the case and ejector kicks it out the port. I'm just going to mention this since nobody else has, generally truing the action is not recommended for prefits. If the threads bind at all, don't force it.

 

[Ghillie21]

Yes, extractor grabs the case and ejector kicks it out the port. I'm just going to mention this since nobody else has, generally truing the action is not recommended for prefits. If the threads bind at all, don't force it.

Hmm, I believe the trued actions from NSS only have the receiver face squared and the lugs lapped, nothing done to the threads.

 

[Jscb1b]

Should you remove the firing pin so you are not feeling the firing pin spring?

 

[blue_ridge]

Another reason to remove the Ejector makes it easier to drop the headspace gauge into the bolt head. You’ll likely be checking the headspace numerous times with both gauges. With the ejector removed, I just pop the gauge past the extractor and it’s ready to go. If you don’t remove the ejector the whole process of is a pain in the ass.

I also clean the barrel and chamber throughly before starting. Even a new barrel may have some grit in the chamber that will prevent an accurate headspace chambering.

I run the NoGo gauge into the chamber and tighten the barrel to receiver until the gauge makes contact, then I put a small piece of painters tape on the barrel nut and another one right across from it on the receiver marking this point. That way I have a reference as I go about finding the proper amount of headspace and tightening the nut to the barrel.

I very lightly coat the threads with Rig Grease.

I torque the barrel to 90 ft lbs, but I start at 30 first. Recheck headspace to make sure it didn’t slip. Then torque to 60 ft lbs, check h/s. Then final torque to 90 ft lbs.

 

[Steelshooter842]

You remove the ejector so you don't get the wrong headspace because you think you have hit the shoulder in the chamber.

It's 1 pin to remove the ejector and have more peace of mind ensuring the headspace is correct.

I would think since the pin is in when you are shooting it you would want to set the headspace with it in. I've done a few and never removed the pin. I have thought about it and decided I shoot with it in so adjust with it in. It gets pushed inside the bolt so it shouldn't matter.

 

[blue_ridge]

I would think since the pin is in when you are shooting it you would want to set the headspace with it in. I've done a few and never removed the pin. I have thought about it and decided I shoot with it in so adjust with it in. It gets pushed inside the bolt so it shouldn't matter.

Theoretically you’re right, the ejector doesnt interfere with headspace during normal operation. However, when you are installing a new barrel and checking for headspace, you’re going to have to check it multiple times. If you have an ejector constantly pushing the headspace gauge it interferes with what you’re trying to do. You don’t want an ejector fighting you every step of the way.

Keeping the Extractor is ok because the gauge just clips under it like a normal rimmed brass case. This is why the gauges have a rim.