Gunsmithing Remage out of a factory rem barrel?

[3-0-hate]

So I'm trying to put some lipstick on a pig here. I've decided that I'm going to do a remage conversion on my rifle. I found a killer deal on a factory 308 sps 26" barrel that is unfired outside of the factory. I would like to have the camber set back a bit also to reduce the long ass throat on these factory barrels.

Something that is a possibility? Reason I want to do this is so I can switch over to a 6creed and back again as I desire. What should I be looking at cost wise for this kind of work? Anyone here willing to do it for me?

Thanks all!

 

[flyer]

I was thinking about this kind of.

I'm going to be using an ARC Barloc barrel tensioner soon. It will work with Savage pre-fit barrels but they also make a Remage version.

Like the bolt lugs in an ARC action, the Barloc has toroidal geometry so it can accommodate some misalignment which could be in the receiver face (If you were using a Barloc on a Remington that hasn't been trued up) or the barrel threads.

In my case I'm worried about buying Savage take off and pre-fit barrels only to find that I don't have enough barrel threads to screw it in to the receiver far enough because they were not designed to have a tensioner and a nut.

The solution would be to pay a very good Machinist to chuck up your barrel in a lathe, pick up the threads and extend them down the barrel. That's not easy, not cheap and might happen often with my luck.

My potential solution is to buy a standard threading die instead of try to thread on a lathe. The threads of the die will pick up the existing thread and with a Barloc, a bit of misalignment can be tolerated so no lathe required.

With a Remington barrel, you'll have to get the shoulder cut back so a lathe is required but you could use a threading die in the way I've described so potentially much less machining time.

This is probably not a good idea if you don't use a Barloc and it's a better idea for a Savage barrel where only a few threads would need to be cut and there would be no shoulder to deal with.

Any way, if the issue comes up, that's how I intend to handle it. A Chinese thread die might be $25 so it's a cheap solution for me. Making a Remage would be more expensive and then add a Barloc, I'm not sure if it makes $ense.

 

[Red_SC]

Flyer, the

I was thinking about this kind of.

I'm going to be using an ARC Barloc barrel tensioner soon. It will work with Savage pre-fit barrels but they also make a Remage version.

Like the bolt lugs in an ARC action, the Barloc has toroidal geometry so it can accommodate some misalignment which could be in the receiver face (If you were using a Barloc on a Remington that hasn't been trued up) or the barrel threads.

In my case I'm worried about buying Savage take off and pre-fit barrels only to find that I don't have enough barrel threads to screw it in to the receiver far enough because they were not designed to have a tensioner and a nut.

The solution would be to pay a very good Machinist to chuck up your barrel in a lathe, pick up the threads and extend them down the barrel. That's not easy, not cheap and might happen often with my luck.

My potential solution is to buy a standard threading die instead of try to thread on a lathe. The threads of the die will pick up the existing thread and with a Barloc, a bit of misalignment can be tolerated so no lathe required.

With a Remington barrel, you'll have to get the shoulder cut back so a lathe is required but you could use a threading die in the way I've described so potentially much less machining time.

This is probably not a good idea if you don't use a Barloc and it's a better idea for a Savage barrel where only a few threads would need to be cut and there would be no shoulder to deal with.

Any way, if the issue comes up, that's how I intend to handle it. A Chinese thread die might be $25 so it's a cheap solution for me. Making a Remage would be more expensive and then add a Barloc, I'm not sure if it makes $ense.

Flyer, the remaining barrel shank will still need to be turned down to the major diameter of the thread before the thread die can cut the thread, if I'm understanding your intent.

 

[flyer]

Yeah, I mentioned that a few times.

 

[supercorndogs]

I would not expect a cheap chinese threading die to be a good idea. The only one I ever bought made me regret it. Art was visually not even close to what it was marked. It appeared the entire thing was cast. The cutting parts and all. Like you made a mold of a real die, and poured some piss poor pot metal in it.

 

[flyer]

I guess I should say I look for listings with HSS in the description, I've had luck with that. Of course if I can find lightly used or NOS American or European taps and dies, I go that way.

I have seen shitty Asian thread dies but they were all from big box store tap and die assortment sets.

So don't scrape the very bottom of the barrel and if it doesn't screw on to the original thread with ease (or its just cutting away old thread lube and gunk), stop and regroup.

Oh, this should be obvious but don't cross thread.

 

[3-0-hate]

Well, in my situation, with a Remington barrel, the shank is significantly smaller than the shoulder, so it will need to get turned on a lathe anyways. I wouldn't pull it to use a die when I could just have the threads continued on the lathe. I know it's difficult to do, but the results would likely be much more positive.

 

[flyer]

Like I said, it might not make sense due to the shoulder and I wasn't really thinking about making a Remage barrel when I had the thought a while ago.

Picking up and cutting threads on a lathe is not a skill everyone has, I'm just offering a potential alternative for times when a skilled Machinist is not available or you want to DIY.

I think it makes a lot of sense if I have to extend the threads of a Savage barrel which is what gave me the idea.

 

[Sierra770]

It might be worth asking Bugholes if he is able to make it into a Bugnut system for you. Same convenience as a Remage but you can keep the same barrel profile.

 

[Another Casual]

If you had a lathe and the skills and wanted a project is wholeheartedly endorse you. But if you're going to be paying for the work, just save a little longer and get a criterion. By the time you get the Remington barrel, have kt set back, re chambered, re contoured and threaded for the remage etc you'll be easily past the $325 or so for a criterion but the difference is you'll have a Remington barrel at the same price point. If nothing else you can get some of your money out of the criterion if you're not happy. If you're not happy with the modded Remington...doubt it will sell. There's a reason the takeoffs are cheap, limited usefulness to a small population. Food for thought, your mileage may vary.

 

[3-0-hate]

If you had a late and the skills and wanted a project is wholeheartedly endorse you. But if you're going to be paying for the work, just save a little longer and get a criterion. By the time you get the Remington barrel, have kt set back, re chambered, re contoured and threaded for the remage etc you'll be easily past the $325 or so for a criterion but the difference is you'll have a Remington barrel at the same price point. If nothing else you can get some of your money out of the criterion if you're not happy. If you're not happy with the modded Remington...doubt it will sell. There's a reason the takeoffs are cheap, limited usefulness to a small population. Food for thought, your mileage may vary.

I totally get your viewpoint. And part of me is tempted to just get this one installed and have a recoil disk (tube chassis) cut for the correct headspace. But the 308 barrel is literally just for practice and screwing around with subs through the can on yotes. I want to be able to R&R this thing myself. I got a quote from a local Smith who has done good work for me in the past, for $275; turned, threaded, installed and even thread and time the muzzle for my brake. I'd be saving a little now and a little later imo.

 

[fdkay]

once a barrel is headspaced, you can remove it and reinstall it.
Just make sure you use the same recoil lug.

 

[spife7980]

Once headspced, his wouldn’t be aside from purely just lucking out.

A smith will charge what... 275-300 to chamber a barrel? Plus say 45 bucks or whatever to buy your factory barrel and you’re at 305

A criterion is that much. That’s the beauty of the criterion remage. And you already state that you’re wanting to remage and not do shouldered barrels so you’re going to need the tools from northland anyways. And you’ll end up with a better shooting barrel for the same cost.

 

[fdkay]

Once headspced, his wouldn’t be aside from purely just lucking out.

A smith will charge what... 275-300 to chamber a barrel? Plus say 45 bucks or whatever to buy your factory barrel and you’re at 305

A criterion is that much. That’s the beauty of the criterion remage. And you already state that you’re wanting to remage and not do shouldered barrels so you’re going to need the tools from northland anyways. And you’ll end up with a better shooting barrel for the same cost.

I meant once headspaced to HIS action.
(he said he wanted it set back and rechambered)

 

[ptm121]

Once headspced, his wouldn’t be aside from purely just lucking out.

A smith will charge what... 275-300 to chamber a barrel? Plus say 45 bucks or whatever to buy your factory barrel and you’re at 305

A criterion is that much. That’s the beauty of the criterion remage. And you already state that you’re wanting to remage and not do shouldered barrels so you’re going to need the tools from northland anyways. And you’ll end up with a better shooting barrel for the same cost.

Right. Paying for any machine work on a barrel kills the idea of a Rem-age.

 

[SporterII]

Buy a remmage barrel, nut, lug and wrench. The barrel you have with its lug is already a fit. It does not need to go back on too tight to manage. It can be a switch barrel. Simple.

 

[3-0-hate]

Well, after talking to my gunsmith, he said he would just charge me his normal rate of $65 to turn the shank to the major diameter of the tenon threads and continue them on up. I also picked up a match stainless Criterion 6 creedmoor barrel as well, and it needed to have the muzzle turned for my brake too, so another $65 for that one. All said and done, I have a brand new .308 factory barrel, converted to a remage shank, and a criterion barrel, for a grand total of $600.

I went out yesterday and shot a bit in the desert with the 308 barrel. Using the same load I developed for the last barrel (155gr Hornady ELD-M over 46.8gr Varget, Lapua case and FGGM primer) and it hammered. The furthest back I was able to get was 660 yards and it put a group on the steel just under 4" in total size, and the wind was gusting pretty well. The rounds were going right where I wanted them.

I can't wait to get setup for 6 creed loading and see how well that Criterion barrel performs.