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remove ejectors from aero bolt

frame12

Private
Minuteman
Jan 10, 2024
54
10
PacNW
Is there a doc or a video on doing this?
Is it a roll pin I'm seeing? Eyes aren't so good anymore.

something like:
lock a piece of brass in the bolt somehow
drive the roll pin out
carefully remove the brass at first and then suddenly loose grip and shoot springs across room
order new parts

T
 
Is there a doc or a video on doing this?
Is it a roll pin I'm seeing? Eyes aren't so good anymore.

something like:
lock a piece of brass in the bolt somehow
drive the roll pin out
carefully remove the brass at first and then suddenly loose grip and shoot springs across room
order new parts

T
Aero does not have any supporting information regarding the disassembly. They wouldn't even offer an exploded view parts diagram.
Unless somebody else has posted something to YouTube, there is no video showing the procedure.

You are correct about the roll pin retaining both ejectors.
WARNING: The actual ejector plungers are very short as are their accompanying springs. Two tons of fun.
 
Terry is right, no supporting info out there. Here is what I did. I used a brass case to push down on the 2 ejectors lightly to release their spring tension. With the case rim under the extractor, I used masking tape and a bench vice to hold the bolt head and brass case in place. Then just drive out the single coil pin that held the 2 ejector in place with the correct size punch. Hope this picture is useful to ya.


IMG_6091.jpg
 
For those who have removed them, are they the same diameter as an AR ejector and spring? If so, one could shorten those if the original is lost? Seems Aero could step up a bit with information, haven't checked to see if spares are available.
 
That single design flaw (my opinion) has kept me from buying one. Nothing that uses a 308 bolt face needs two ejectors and in my experience they show pressure sooner.

Last one I messed with was a Christensen 28 Nosler. I swore I’d never mess with another one. Never did get the speed it should’ve been able to obtain.

Engineers justifying their existence and need to be unemployed. My 2 cents.

To specifically answer your question, yes and you’ve gotten done good pointers above. I’ll add, you can remove the brass in a plastic baggie to prevent needing to order new parts. ;) Good luck!
 
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I made a "splint" using a short length of brass cleaning rod, my no-go gauge and a couple stiff rubber bands.
The splint provides enough side pressure to keep the gauge locked in place and free up a hand.
Wrapped the whole thing in a plastic bag when the pin was out out a little way.
Worked pretty good.

Not going to work to put it back together though. It could with a better splint design.


To put it back together, I'm using a Harbor Freight arbor press. There's already a hole in the ram that perfectly fits a 308 case.

I drilled a hole in a 2x4 to fit the back of the bolt at the correct distance from the back of the press to fit snug up against the back of the press, so I can tap on the roll pin without things moving.
Generally I prefer inserting roll pins with pliers as far as possible before using a hammer.
You can install one at a time, so that helps simplify things.

T
 
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