Gunsmithing Removing a loctited screw-

cal50

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 6, 2009
1,427
113
Ohio
Here is a tip on how to remove a screw that has been loctited from the factory. In this case I was swapping the barrel on my Browning Buckmark but this can be used on other apps.

Instead of applying heat to the entire area of the frame I wanted to try something new. I used a soldering iron. I turned it on and dropped the point down into the barrel screw and stood the pistol up on the grip. I let it sit there for around 5 minutes ( a beer). After 5 minutes the screw broke loose easily without stripping the head or bending Allen wrenches.

Red or locking grade loctite is dsmn strong stuff- unless you heat it to around 500 degrees to break it down. My barrel screw and sight bar screws were all REALLY set in place with the loctite.

Once removed I installed my fresh refinished and threaded barrel.

Note-

I tried the Kroil trick overnight with no help. Someone at Browning was determined to not have my barrel fall off.
 
Re: Removing a loctited screw-

All is well and good with that tip. Except IIRC, the Loctite brand of Anaerobic adhesives are "killed" at 320-350 degrees.

Small minor point of difference, but it may help others with different materials.

Sure is good to find things that work, eh?
 
Re: Removing a loctited screw-


I stand corrected. Thank you Flounder.






I never claimed to know everything, gimme another week.
smile.gif
 
Re: Removing a loctited screw-

482F or 483F Whatever it takes....

I know a lot of people avoid the red locking grade but if you apply heat its easy to remove. Without heat something bad will happen.
 
Re: Removing a loctited screw-

Another good tip came courtesy of JDJones of Mag-Na-Port. His quote was that, "Life is too short to Loctite screw threads on scope mounts". He recommended putting the Loctite on the heads of the screws only. I like to torque the scope mount screws down and put a 1/2 drop of the green wicking Loctite on the head of the screw...be sure that the slot or hex or Torx hole is cleaned out with some absorbent such as a Kleenex or Q-Tip. Sets firm but can be removed with just a little bit more torque than seated. JMHO
 
Re: Removing a loctited screw-

Its a reference to the movie Mr.Mom where he was asked about re-wiring the 110 house. His answer was 220, 221 whatever it takes!


I am sure the "tip" is nothing new but I forgot about it and had a perfect chance to try it. I bet a LOT of screws are ruined because people want to prove they are stronger than loctite.
Most people are but the screw head is not.
 
Re: Removing a loctited screw-

Re: the JD Jones trick mentioned above. Why not use fingernail polish? Can even get that in black these days... Acetone breaks the seal and just like covering the screws on a Rem 700 trigger, your ring screws won't be shifting.