is there an inexpensive effective way to easily remove moly from scenar bullets without damaging the jacket?
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removing moly from bullets
- Thread starter bbtoys
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Re: removing moly from bullets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bbtoys</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> is there an inexpensive effective way to easily remove moly from scenar bullets without damaging the jacket? </div></div>
If it's a good moly job, it's plated into the pores and good luck. If it's a hack job using the BBs and coffee can method, you might try mineral spirits, or just tumble it off with walnut/corn.
I've had mixed results getting the good stuff off via tumbling.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bbtoys</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> is there an inexpensive effective way to easily remove moly from scenar bullets without damaging the jacket? </div></div>
If it's a good moly job, it's plated into the pores and good luck. If it's a hack job using the BBs and coffee can method, you might try mineral spirits, or just tumble it off with walnut/corn.
I've had mixed results getting the good stuff off via tumbling.
Chris
Re: removing moly from bullets
i don't know how good of a job they do but it's the lapua scenar 155gn moly bullets and i just don't want to shoot moly in my rifle.
i don't know how good of a job they do but it's the lapua scenar 155gn moly bullets and i just don't want to shoot moly in my rifle.
Re: removing moly from bullets
I have tumbled moly off many times in the tumbler. I got a batch of media just for it. takes about a day in a half to 2 days to get it all off. They shot just as good as naked bullets in the 243AI i had. could not tell any difference other then the naked bullets were really shiny and the tumbled bullets dint have quit the shine.
I have tumbled moly off many times in the tumbler. I got a batch of media just for it. takes about a day in a half to 2 days to get it all off. They shot just as good as naked bullets in the 243AI i had. could not tell any difference other then the naked bullets were really shiny and the tumbled bullets dint have quit the shine.
Re: removing moly from bullets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balkandom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe try it with steel media and a Thumlers? </div></div>
I think S/S media would be too harsh.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balkandom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe try it with steel media and a Thumlers? </div></div>
I think S/S media would be too harsh.
Re: removing moly from bullets
I used a crush walnut,corn cob mix it works really well on removing. I also run the brass/metal polish additive to get most all the shine back once it takes the moly off. works very well. Just takes some time to get them all most new looking.
I used a crush walnut,corn cob mix it works really well on removing. I also run the brass/metal polish additive to get most all the shine back once it takes the moly off. works very well. Just takes some time to get them all most new looking.
Re: removing moly from bullets
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shoot4fun</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balkandom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe try it with steel media and a Thumlers? </div></div>
I think S/S media would be too harsh.
</div></div>
Nope, works beautifully. No dimensional change on the bullets and they are just as shiny and pollished as brand new factory bullets. I haven't tried this with plastic ballistic tips, but OTM (inspect the tips for pins in the HP though) and surprisingly Lead spitzers come out looking beautiful. (I was pretty shocked about the lead, they didn't look blunted or anything)
Editted to add: you do need to tumble them twice. First time to get the moly off and the second time to actually pollish them if you want them really shiny and looking new. If you try it in just one batch the suspended moly in the water settles on the bullets and keeps you from getting them clean.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shoot4fun</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balkandom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe try it with steel media and a Thumlers? </div></div>
I think S/S media would be too harsh.
</div></div>
Nope, works beautifully. No dimensional change on the bullets and they are just as shiny and pollished as brand new factory bullets. I haven't tried this with plastic ballistic tips, but OTM (inspect the tips for pins in the HP though) and surprisingly Lead spitzers come out looking beautiful. (I was pretty shocked about the lead, they didn't look blunted or anything)
Editted to add: you do need to tumble them twice. First time to get the moly off and the second time to actually pollish them if you want them really shiny and looking new. If you try it in just one batch the suspended moly in the water settles on the bullets and keeps you from getting them clean.
Re: removing moly from bullets
I have used Dawn dish soap in a can and let them soak a while, slosh around, and that has taken it off before.
I have used Dawn dish soap in a can and let them soak a while, slosh around, and that has taken it off before.
Re: removing moly from bullets
Just gave the SS media a try with 250 "semi-pro" coated SMKs. They did not come from Sierra coated, but it was applied by an very experinced moly-shooter.
Regardless, about 7 hours with a little dawn and lemishine and they came out looking sparkling new. No issues with rounding the tip, etc.
ZY
Just gave the SS media a try with 250 "semi-pro" coated SMKs. They did not come from Sierra coated, but it was applied by an very experinced moly-shooter.
Regardless, about 7 hours with a little dawn and lemishine and they came out looking sparkling new. No issues with rounding the tip, etc.
ZY
Re: removing moly from bullets
I would dampen the tumbling media with Windex. The cleaning agents can add considerably to the media's effectiveness, and I have long ago found dampening the media adds greatly to its effectiveness.
Since cartidge brass is not involved, there should be no consequent reluctance to employ ammonia or most other cleaning additives.
You can even add unsweetened Kool-Ade lemonade mix to the damp media; it's essentially pure citric acid, a long recognized and approved brass/copper cleaner.
Greg
I would dampen the tumbling media with Windex. The cleaning agents can add considerably to the media's effectiveness, and I have long ago found dampening the media adds greatly to its effectiveness.
Since cartidge brass is not involved, there should be no consequent reluctance to employ ammonia or most other cleaning additives.
You can even add unsweetened Kool-Ade lemonade mix to the damp media; it's essentially pure citric acid, a long recognized and approved brass/copper cleaner.
Greg
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