Resizing 300 win mag... how much lube?

nuclear_shooter

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Minuteman
Jun 28, 2013
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So, I started to FL size some of my 300 win mag brass. I am using Imperial case sizing wax. Right there on the top it says 'use sparingly'. So that's exactly what I did. And it was a disaster. I had the entire brass lightly coated, with a little bit extra just above the belt, and on the neck. I tried to get some on the inside, mostly unsuccessful. I got the brass about half way up the die when it just stopped. I would have probably ripped the press off by bench before it when up any more. I thought that the neck sizer/decapper was bottoming out so I ran that up, and eventually totally removed it, same issue. Then I basically lubed the neck sizer, and put a lot more lube on the base, and it when in fine. So my question to you is how much lube do you use on your brass? Do you lube any parts of your die before resizing? Anybody who reloads any belted magnum is welcome to respond! Thanks.
 
If your die was completely dry, then you may need to put a little more lube on the first couple of cases. I use Imperial wax and it works great on .300 Win. Mag brass and you do use it sparingly.

Recently, I tried some Mobil 1 synthetic 20-50 Wt. motor oil for case lube. I was surprised how well it works.
 
If your die was completely dry, then you may need to put a little more lube on the first couple of cases. I use Imperial wax and it works great on .300 Win. Mag brass and you do use it sparingly.

Recently, I tried some Mobil 1 synthetic 20-50 Wt. motor oil for case lube. I was surprised how well it works.

Die was brand new from Redding. I had cleaned out the packing grease with isopropyl, and just started running them. I would say at first I used a 2mm x 1mm blob on my finger, and then doubled it to get it to finally run.
 
I don't move my brass all that much with the Warner die but have never had one stick using Rooster case lube . As said , a quick dusting on each side is all I've needed .
 
Don't overlook the fact resizing the 300 requires an attitude that you mean to do it. Lube it and lean on the press lever. Imperial is great stuff and works well on any resizing job.
 
Don't overlook the fact resizing the 300 requires an attitude that you mean to do it. Lube it and lean on the press lever. Imperial is great stuff and works well on any resizing job.

Oh believe me i was. Something was wrong, when I finally got it working it took effort but not like before. Before I felt like I was going to rip my press off the bench.

Edit: Do any of you guys put lube on your dies before your first use/after cleaning?
 
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"...and put a lot more lube on the base, and it when in fine."

Keep it up or you'll get a stuck case.

You can't put enough lube inside a case to keep the outside from getting stuck.

There are no calibration marks for how much lube to use, it's a learned thing; if it takes unreasonanble pressure to size don't just keep pushing, add more lube or get stuck.

Sure, a freshly cleaned die is bare steel and needs a bit more lube than it will later.

All conventional sizing lubes work fine if used correctly, nothing works well if it's used incorrectly.
 
I have stuck two cases. Both went in fine but wouldn't come out. If your problem is getting the case into the die in the first place, I think it is other than a lube issue. I use a tiny amount of imperial on 300 win in a clean die on a redding big boss.
 
You get a feel for how much imperial, when doing a large batch I'll keep the index finger and thumb coated and lube every case as I'm inserting into the press. You'll find that its the body taper that needs it the most. It soon becomes apparent when there's not enough on the case but touch wood I've never had a stuck case yet. As mentioned above the first case in clean dies will need more, careful not to let it build up around the shoulder and neck.
 
I use Imperial wax for all my rifle cases on a single stage press and never have had an issue including with my 300 WM. I do swab some lube inside the die after cleaning. Are you cleaning your brass before sizing?
 
You get a feel for how much imperial, when doing a large batch I'll keep the index finger and thumb coated and lube every case as I'm inserting into the press. You'll find that its the body taper that needs it the most. It soon becomes apparent when there's not enough on the case but touch wood I've never had a stuck case yet. As mentioned above the first case in clean dies will need more, careful not to let it build up around the shoulder and neck.

I remain convinced it was a lube problem, as adding more allowed me to smoothly resize it.

So I guess nobody puts a little lube on their brand new dies first? What about on the inside of the neck?
 
I may be adding another cleaning step to my process, but when sizing .223 / 5.56 & .308 brass with Imperial, I dab a bit on my fingers and turn the case covering the mouth of the case and about 2/3 the way down. I also take a Q-tip lightly rolled in the wax and quickly dunk it in the case neck. I'll do about 10 cases before I add a bit more to the Q-tip. You could probably accomplish the same thing with a pipe cleaner. Just bend the tip of the pipe cleaner over once or twice to get the neck size you need. This would last longer than a Q-tip. All that said, I have not stuck a single case to date since adding this step, and I've sized thousands of rounds.
 
I remain convinced it was a lube problem, as adding more allowed me to smoothly resize it.

So I guess nobody puts a little lube on their brand new dies first? What about on the inside of the neck?

Yes you certainly want to lube inside the neck either by scraping the mouth against your finger covered in lube or using some sort of applicator like a q-tip. no need to lube a new or cleaned die, the cases will do it for you.
 
if the brass is really hard to size the put some in the neck and it should be a little easier

Only if he is feeling too much resistance on the neck expanding downstroke. He said nothing to indicate an expanding problem.
I use a q-tip laced with ISDW on the inside of my necks, doesn't take much, and expanding is effortless. New dies require a bit more lube in the beginning and a lot less once they are seasoned. 223 requires far less lube than a 300WM, that is just common sense.
 
I clean a die when I first get it, then spray a little bit of Hornady one shot on it. For my cases I stand them up on a cookie sheet (a little bit of a pain), then spray down on them about a 45 degree angle from two sides. This lubes the inside of the neck a little, the outside of the case, and with a little lube in the new die, allows full lubrication for the first few cases until the cases transfer lube to the die.
 
So, I started to FL size some of my 300 win mag brass. I am using Imperial case sizing wax. Right there on the top it says 'use sparingly'. So that's exactly what I did. And it was a disaster. I had the entire brass lightly coated, with a little bit extra just above the belt, and on the neck. I tried to get some on the inside, mostly unsuccessful. I got the brass about half way up the die when it just stopped. I would have probably ripped the press off by bench before it when up any more. I thought that the neck sizer/decapper was bottoming out so I ran that up, and eventually totally removed it, same issue. Then I basically lubed the neck sizer, and put a lot more lube on the base, and it when in fine. So my question to you is how much lube do you use on your brass? Do you lube any parts of your die before resizing? Anybody who reloads any belted magnum is welcome to respond! Thanks.
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Magnum Cal. Brass & FL sizing . Lubing Case is good but ( The type Press you use ) on Mag. Brass, makes it Night & Day on the up-down-stroke effort for the resizing of Mag. cal. Brass .

( I Find ) it Way easier and way smoother on the resistance if I use my old heavy Press on resizing the Mag. Brass . I use an old Pacific cast iron press with a big long handle for them .
(for example) I 'will NOT' use my light-weight LEE re size press . It is a POS for that application & does NOT do the job . I keep the LEE set-up strictly for capping only.
.
 
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Magnum Cal. Brass & FL sizing . Lubing Case is good but ( The type Press you use ) on Mag. Brass, makes it Night & Day on the up-down-stroke effort for the resizing of Mag. cal. Brass .

( I Find ) it Way easier and way smoother on the resistance if I use my old heavy Press on resizing the Mag. Brass . I use an old Pacific cast iron press with a big long handle for them .
(for example) I 'will NOT' use my light-weight LEE re size press . It is a POS for that application & does NOT do the job . I keep the LEE set-up strictly for capping only.
.

I'm using an RCBS Rock Chucker, bought it in Jan.
 
I'm using an RCBS Rock Chucker, bought it in Jan.
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That's a good heavy press . Make life easy with a heavy & long handle .
Always on the 1st & 2nd Case when doing a re-size run .. I will lube a Mag. Case & then I will bump it partially up Die & then back down . then maybe halfway up & down & then a full stroke when resizing . After the 1st & 2nd Case like that . the Die is well seasoned & all is smooth sailing after that for just banging them out one stroke @ a time.

Only time I ever got a stuck case in Die was a Magnum case, Was several years back, when I chose to use that One-Shot aerosol/canned spray lube . Never touched that stuff again after that one fiasco .
For my Case Lube . I just use a home brew of lube mixed with mineral spirits & alcohol in a small spray bottle . Works great & cheep.
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