I would like to know the proper way to change .308 win brass into .260 rem brass. I have a bunch of 308 brass, but shoot my 260 more often. I've never changed brass from caliber to another, and am clueless. I appreciate any help. Thank you.
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Resizing brass from 308 to 260
- Thread starter STR
- Start date
I wouldn't suggest it - you have to turn the necks and remove material in order to have a decent result. Sell your 308 brass and pick up some 260 instead.
necking down 308 brass
Turning the necks on necked down brass is seldom necessary, unless you are running a custom/tight neck chamber. Have done thousands w/ no need to do so.
However, I do occasionally turn lightly for uniformity.
My 308 brass has been necked down as far as 243, w/o the need for turning.
Measure up your chamber and your fired brass and a loaded round that has been necked down. That will tell you what you need to know.
Turning the necks on necked down brass is seldom necessary, unless you are running a custom/tight neck chamber. Have done thousands w/ no need to do so.
However, I do occasionally turn lightly for uniformity.
My 308 brass has been necked down as far as 243, w/o the need for turning.
Measure up your chamber and your fired brass and a loaded round that has been necked down. That will tell you what you need to know.
Ok, I didn't listen to the first advise, because I have heard from to many guys that you can resize 308 brass to 260 brass. So, I went and set up my press with my full length resizing die, and tried a lubed 308 case. It went in and out like butter. It turned out just fine. I did 21 more, and loaded them up with a load that I know works well in my rifle. Guess what, it shot them perfectly as when I use factory made 260 brass. I didn't have to trim shit. That's why I give advise on things I do and know the facts, and not shit I read about. Thanks anyways.
STR, I would advise inside neck ream. Anytime you go from a bigger caliber to a smaller caliber those
necks are thicker and may cause a problem. I make different cases all the time and most of the time
start with a form die.
necks are thicker and may cause a problem. I make different cases all the time and most of the time
start with a form die.
I was expecting to see just that J.J., but I really didn't measure the neck wall thickness. I loaded one and test fit in the rifle. It went in very smoothly, and so I loaded up the other 21. I was a little apprehensive about running it through the rifle, but it ran just fine, and printed some damn nice groups out of a brand new barrel. Now that I have more time, I will compare neck thickness with factory made 260 brass. BTW, I was resizing Black Hills brass, and I had about .001 tension on the bullets. Thank you for the heads up.
Thank you guys. Neck turning is one of the only steps I have never done in all the reloading I have done. I guess I will be looking into the tool needed for this. I'm sure it is a good idea even though it's time consuming. I always thought it was something bench rest shooters did to squeeze every bit of accuracy out of their loads and rifles. I do have one bench rifle, but hardly ever shoot it. Again, thanks to all for your help.
