Re: Resizing New Brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phil3</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I understand pretty well I think about resizing brass that has been fired. But, what about new brass? I can resize the neck with a mandrel or expander, but trying to EXTEND headspace (assuming barrel needs it) is not really possible, short of firing the case and blowing the shoulder forward. Right? I just want shots fired from brand new cases to be as accurate as fired ones that I resize.
I thought I would just run all the new cases through the full length resizing die to set the shoulder back to what I need (if they need any setback at all - doubtful), and use the expander to expand the neck for consistent bullet tension and iron out any dents.
OR
Use a mandrel to size the interior neck dimension without any of the potential disadvantages of an expander being pulled through the neck (increased neck runout).
Recommendations? This is Winchester 223 brass.
I read the section on new brass on the sticky Reloading, but could not quite grasp the concept.
- Phil
</div></div>I will try to answer but I am not sure of what you are trying to achieve.
Fisrt off you can not really makenew brass the same as fireformed .
However that does not mean that new barss or even sized brass will shoot better or worse.
Some chambers shoot full length resized brass better than fireformed brass . This can usually be traced to chamber issues.
You can set a case to have less headspace and there by a tight chamber fit at the first firing.
The way to do it is first expand the necks witha mandrel of the correct size and then resize the necks with the neck sizing die only partialy down the length of the neck.
This leaves an expanded section at the junction of the neck and shoulder that does not easily enter the chamber neck area. So the case is pushed back against the bolt face with some force upon closing the bolt. Upon firing this results in a tight fitting fireformed case even if the chamber had excessive head space to start with. You must size down the neck a bit at a time until you can just close the bolt with some resistance then set the die there.
If you wish to avoid using reloading dies with expander balls for normal reloading then buy a set of Redding competition dies or use a Redding S type bushing die to resize.
Don't set back the shoulders of any new brass unless they will not fit in the chamber and you have proved that the shoulder is the problem . This is where trouble starts.
It would be much better if you asked specific questions rather than stated what you are going to do.
An expander mandrel can be used to iron out dented necks and other things but I would not use one alone to set the neck tension to reload . I would still run them through a neck sizing die of some kind.
My recommendations for a bolt gun are .
Uniform primer pocket , Uniform fashhole , trim case length mouth square . Chamfer inside neck.
Use correct expander mandrel to expand necks to fit neck turner mandrel .
Slight neck turn to clean up 80% of circumference , Partial resize necks with Redding bushing die to leave an unsized section at the junction of the neck and shoulder this section is not sized again ever . Bushing needs to be correct for turned neck. Polish inside necks. Chamfer outside neck.
Seat bullet with Redding comp seater . After firing the unsized section of the neck expands to fill the chamber less spring back and stays that way for the life of the case it is kept short so it does not cause hard chambering . Use a Redding body die to size the case and a bushing die to size the neck and the unsized section can be avoided with correct length adjsutment of the neck sizer.
Chamber fit can be monitored and case fit presereved with the body die . As it can just size a little or a lot or bump the shoulder if required.
It is hard to know if you are loading for a bolt or an auto as it changes slightly.
I bet it's an Auto and I have wasted my breath.
