Reverse threaded muzzle

[Guns&WhiteWater]

I was wondering if getting a muzzle threaded in reverse and getting some TBAC NT and CB brakes made with reverse threading would be possible. Seems like a better idea than reverse threaded cans if it was easy to do, seeing as I spin my cans on and off repeatedly but hardly ever remove the brakes. Any thoughts on this?

 

[roostercogburn98]

Reverse like left hand threads?

 

[dk17hmr]

Area 419 hellfire system?

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

Reverse like left hand threads?

Yes

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

Area 419 hellfire system?

I really like my TBAC system and would prefer to stay with it. Haven’t given much thought to any other system.

 

[Aftermath]

I have been giving serious consideration to pin and weld the muzzle devices on every rifle. It's not hard to do and it's not really much more trouble to undo.

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

Would that have any impact on a barrels potential accuracy?

 

[justincase]

I was wondering if getting a muzzle threaded in reverse and getting some TBAC NT and CB brakes made with reverse threading would be possible. Seems like a better idea than reverse threaded cans if it was easy to do, seeing as I spin my cans on and off repeatedly but hardly ever remove the brakes. Any thoughts on this?

I here some Russian rifles and German older rifles have opposit threading and it works great

 

[45-90]

I have a couple of hand removable brakes, one is a 419 on my Dasher... would I by another? Kinda iffy. It's not that easy to remove by hand after shooting.
The other brand I had to mill wrench flats on the brake remove it.

I don't have problems with muzzle brakes coming loose if lubed, part way, glued with blue loctite on the last two threads and torqued.

I wouldn't pin and weld, instead for a definite non loosing brake just drill and thread brake and barrel part way of course, and put a set screw through both, use blue loctite for removal and even a jam set screw for serious work. Easy to remove with a hex key and easy to install, no heat no welding....and easy to change...plus if ya decided later ya don't want a muzzle device a tiny set screw can be screwed into the barrel to look like holes not used for scope mounts on most every action. And tread on your muzzle thread protector for a clean look.

 

[Aftermath]

Would that have any impact on a barrels potential accuracy?

Done properly, I don't see how. No worse than the threading of the barrel and then screwing on a weight (the brake).
I have a couple pinned and welded AR types and those are as accurate as any of the other AR's that are not pinned and welded. I wore out a barrel pre-covid days and ammo was cheap(er) doing stupid shit and rather than buy another CB, I just filed on the weld until it was flat (I leave the weld pretty obvious so the dipshits can see it), punched it and then drilled it until I could get the little pin out. It wasn't much work and since I don't mind tinkering around, it was free. That brake is now on the replacement barrel and you have to really look hard to see that I even filed on it.
When I install and pin/weld, I measure how deep I want to go into the barrel, install the brake, clamp the barrel on the drill press and set the depth to drill. I chamfer the hole slightly, install the correct diameter pin in the drill press, push it to depth and set the press so it is applying downward pressure and then TIG it, using the pin itself as filler rod. The best ones I have done, the weld stays mostly inside the chamfer. The worst ones have a little air dimple because the gas was wrong or something. They still work just fine.
I may have a problem in the future because I started just inverting the drill bit and using the shaft as the pin. When I go to drill, that bit may create some problems. If so, I'll just buy another CB.

EDIT: The pinned and welded stuff is for avoiding the SBR crap.

 

[Zak Smith]

You should just red loctite the brakes to the muzzle threads.

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

You should just red loctite the brakes to the muzzle threads.

All of my CB, NT, and Flash hider TBAC brakes are red locktited to the muzzle threads. The only time I have had a problem with them coming loose when unscrewing a can was when the barrel was really hot. I have no complaints but was thinking that a left hand threaded brake would be a small improvement to the system in these cases.

@Zak Smith on a side note, I really need more TBAC hub-to-CB adapters, but they have been OOS for a while. Any idea when more will hit the market?

 

[Tokay444]

Would that have any impact on a barrels potential accuracy?

Yes.

 

[TheOE800]

I had a muzzle device of a smaller thread size milled out and rethreaded to a larger diameter thread, so it’s possible. I wouldn’t do it again though.

 

[D̷e̷v̷i̷l̷D̷o̷c̷A̷Z̷]

All of my CB, NT, and Flash hider TBAC brakes are red locktited to the muzzle threads. The only time I have had a problem with them coming loose when unscrewing a can was when the barrel was really hot. I have no complaints but was thinking that a left hand threaded brake would be a small improvement to the system in these cases.

@Zak Smith on a side note, I really need more TBAC hub-to-CB adapters, but they have been OOS for a while. Any idea when more will hit the market?

Thunderbeast CB Adapters

www.eccomachine.net

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

Thunderbeast CB Adapters

www.eccomachine.net

Thank you. I have two similar ones from Energetic Armament but these bottom out on the threads of the brakes instead of the conical shoulder, which has always bothered me. I have only one TBAC HUB adapter and it fits perfectly, so I am hesitant to purchase anything other than the ones made by TBAC.

 

[kthomas]

This seems to be a solution looking for a problem, IMO.

You also have the issue of tightening the can on the muzzle device could loosen the muzzle device from the barrel, if they are opposing threads.

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

This seems to be a solution looking for a problem, IMO.

You also have the issue of tightening the can on the muzzle device could loosen the muzzle device from the barrel, if they are opposing threads.

I don’t know, 90% of the time it isn’t an issue, but when it is, I think a left hand threaded brake would be a simple solution.

I never crank my cans on hard enough to worry about loosening my brakes if they were left hand threaded. But I have had cans that had to be cranked off with quite a bit of torque.

 

[kthomas]

I don’t know, 90% of the time it isn’t an issue, but when it is, I think a left hand threaded brake would be a simple solution.

I never crank my cans on hard enough to worry about loosening my brakes if they were left hand threaded. But I have had cans that had to be cranked off with quite a bit of torque.

Can't say I've had any troubles like that (yet).

But I also use mounts with tapers that don't allow carbon to get into the threads, so perhaps that's a big help on that front.

 

[D̷e̷v̷i̷l̷D̷o̷c̷A̷Z̷]

Thank you. I have two similar ones from Energetic Armament but these bottom out on the threads of the brakes instead of the conical shoulder, which has always bothered me. I have only one TBAC HUB adapter and it fits perfectly, so I am hesitant to purchase anything other than the ones made by TBAC.

This work as they should, Ecco knows what they are doing. Buy w confidence

 

[Zak Smith]

FWIW, I categorically hate using left-handed threads on pistol barrels.

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

Why is that?

 

[Oldrifle]

I previously had a muzzle device cut out with a smaller thread size; simply redloctite the brakes to the muzzle threads.