Does anyone have pictures of the action area of the Rhineland Arms Leo stock ? Was wondering if there is more meat there for the Savage M93 17hmr than the Boyds tacti-cool stock ? The Boyds seem to split real easy between the trigger guard and mag plate. And yes already have the heavy mag plate and am torqueing 15 inch pounds......
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Rhineland Arms Leo stock
- Thread starter all2003
- Start date
I have one, you won't have to worry about splitting the stock. There is more wood and it it solid walnut. I had to clean mine up a bit on the inletting and I added pillars. I really like the stock.
I actually do have pictures of both, taken for a build thread I thought about doing but never got around to. This is the .22LR not the .17 though. There is a little more meat, but more importantly it seems to be much better quality meat. Where I think the real strength comes from isn't the wood itself but the way the bottom is inletted. Because it allows you to build a much bigger bottom metal and take advantage of the extra surface area. I'm not sure why Rhineland doesn't offer this product, I even sent them pictures of mine.
Here is the tacticool stock.
And the Rhineland.
I made a custom bottom metal, I feel the extra surface area makes this area (with takes the pressure from the action screws) much stronger. I had some 1/8" thick, 1" wide metal strap laying around so I just had to trim it, round the corners, and cut a slot for the magazine. It only took about half an hour.
The holes aren't centered, because the holes in the stock weren't perfectly centered.
Not real pretty, but it gets the job done. I eventually put some bedding compound between the bottom metal and stock to insure the pressure was distributed evenly.
There was a threaded insert at the bottom of the stock so I built a little monopod out of a threaded knob, some stainless allthread and a threaded disk. Ordered the parts from McMaster-Carr for like $8.
Finished Product.
Next to my Savage 10FP.
Here is the tacticool stock.
And the Rhineland.
I made a custom bottom metal, I feel the extra surface area makes this area (with takes the pressure from the action screws) much stronger. I had some 1/8" thick, 1" wide metal strap laying around so I just had to trim it, round the corners, and cut a slot for the magazine. It only took about half an hour.
The holes aren't centered, because the holes in the stock weren't perfectly centered.
Not real pretty, but it gets the job done. I eventually put some bedding compound between the bottom metal and stock to insure the pressure was distributed evenly.
There was a threaded insert at the bottom of the stock so I built a little monopod out of a threaded knob, some stainless allthread and a threaded disk. Ordered the parts from McMaster-Carr for like $8.
Finished Product.
Next to my Savage 10FP.
There's a pic of mine in the picture thread, http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-pics-your-rimfire-sticks-21.html#post2821362
The pics above show the inletting on both stocks well. I also took some wood off around the trigger and the magazine well on mine.
The pics above show the inletting on both stocks well. I also took some wood off around the trigger and the magazine well on mine.
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The savage rimfires have really thin wood and if you over torque the action screws you will hear a crack or crushing sound. If you pillar bed the stock you will solve this problem and chances are the rifle will be more consistent and groups will shrink. Heavier bottom metal will help but still won't be a 100% fix. Doing both will be though 
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