Ruger 10/22 accuracy

[Guthwine]

I have a more or less off the shelf Ruger 10/22 as a fun rifle. It sits in an Archangel Stock and in my ammo testing settled on the Stinger since it got the best results. (See the 5 shot groups attached -as a comparison 2 10 shot groups with CCI HV HP - groups not shot with the Holosun an Athlon now sits on it)

I also played around with different torque values with the action screw and this is the best result i got.

So basically I am asking if I should be happy with the result or if the regular 10/22 is capable of more than that?

 

[ESBVader]

What was the distance to target?

Have you tried establishing groups with subsonic ammo? You'll probably find greater accuracy with it.

 

[Guthwine]

Oh sorry, target distance is 50 meters.

So far I have only tried high velocity ammo, (every brand I can get around here RWS, CCI, etc) so it cycles properly but good point might be worth a try to test slower ammo for accuracy.

 

[ESBVader]

Personally, without knowing weather conditions or shooter skill, I think I would generally say that you can pull better accuracy out of a 10/22.

If you can get any higher quality subsonic ammo, I would try that and see how that affects your group size.

 

[want2learn]

i have a mid 1970's, mostly off the shelf 10-22 with an inexpensive Bushnell rifle scope. The original scope died a couple of years ago and Bushnell replaced it with this model, nothing fancy but it works.

I recall tuning the stock trigger a little bit many years ago, not sure if i used different springs or polished surfaces or both and i added a thicker recoil pad for length of pull as well as a bolt lock/release rocker lever. It's still in the original wood stock with the barrel band set up.

Shooting 10 standard CCI and the occasional SK .22LR round through the rifle on a bench it will generally shoot around 2 - 2.5 cm groups at 50 yards....sometimes a little better, sometimes a little worse (at least i seem to recall loading 10 rounds in the rotary magazine).

I recall purchasing the CCI mini-mag most often as they work particularly well in this rifle and are readily available here. I don't recall ever trying premium/expensive target loads.

I've read a lot of articles over the years of very cool upgrades. There are certainly many aftermarket parts for these rifles. I bet you could further improve the aesthetics and performance of the rifle if you threw more money at the rifle. Truthfully, I considered doing some more modifications to the rifle, maybe a different barrel or making a hole at the back of the receiver to facilitate optimal cleaning but i never ended up following through on them.

I use this rifle to teach others. It's very non threatening for new shooters, light and easy to handle with little if any recoil concerns.... and of course a lot of fun to learn on......

For myself, it's mostly a have fun plinking away rifle while my bolt action rifle is cooling down.....and for some reason it still holds a good bit of sentimental value for me. It was one of my first purchases with my own hard earned newspaper route money.

i should take it out again next time i go to the range.

 

[straightshooter1]

Optics can make a sizable difference too.

Also, I put a better trigger in that helped in having a lighter trigger pull with my 10/22

 

[*rim-star*]

The best I have seen a factory 10-22 do at 50 yards was about .6 That was with Eley Club and a trigger job only. It was the deluxe sporter model.

 

[Hoop]

The trigger is the place to start then you go down the rabbit hole, I have been down that hole twice.

There is also Connecticut Precision Chambering he can do a lot of things to a 1022, including threading the barrel into the receiver getting rid of the barrel block. Plus he does all sorts of things to the bolt etc. I got great results with him.

 

[Guthwine]

I had really hoped to avoid that rabbit hole for this rifle as most of the comming budget is going into another long range project.

I just want to get the most out of the existing system for this plinker. I will let you know how the tests go with the sub ammo. Thank you all for the suggestions.

 

[Drstrangelove]

I put together a Ruger Charger receiver with a Kidd trigger group and a TacSol barrel, mounted in a Boyds stock, and topped it off with an FFP 14x mil/mil fine reticle scope. First time shooting it yesterday with CCI minimags at 50m. I’m very happy.

10rd group

 

[hlee]

Ask yourself this one simple question. Only you can answer it, and no number of Internet opinions should sway you differently.

Does the rifle do what you need it to do? Are you satisfied with the results? Ok, that’s 2 questions. If so, full stop. Go. Be happy. Continued residence here will only fill you with frustration and despair.

If not, my experience has been that Lapua CenterX is of sufficient quality to show you what the rifle can really do, without being cost prohibitive. A small investment in quality ammo will tell you all you need to know. My kidd supergrade shoots CenterX a bit better than MOA at 50 yards. My Ruger with aTacSol barrel shoots the same ammo just a bit worse. If your rifle won’t shoot a random lot of centerX to moa or better, you’ve got headspace for improvement.

 

[candyx]

ELEY Tenex ammo , foul the barrel with 4-5 shots then shoot your groups.

 

[Snuby642]

Get standard velocity ammo not subs.
A little trigger work and a barrel upgrade put my 10/22 sub moa with cci sv.

I got an E R Shaw barrel not much over 100$ at the time, worth every penny.

Thier stock barrels are lacking and triggers both easy dyi projects.

I found better ammo didn't fix much on the stock platform.

Imho

 

[Mr. Wolf]

I got bit by the 10/22 bug recently. The Takedown 16” model will do .6“ at 50 yards reliably with Aguila Rifle Match and CCI standard velocity. I haven’t tested it out with better ammo yet.

There are some interesting points made by STKO on YouTube.


Cheap and simple to test on any 22LR setup... but an interesting and not too expensive rabbit hole.
YMMV, happy shooting.

 

[Guthwine]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I spent 1 and half hours at the range today and tried different ammo and torque setting again (with and without muzzle device) and I found a good setup with RWS Rifle Match. (previosly I only tested with the RWS Match Target) With one exception it also had no problem feeding.

The groups (50m - 5 Shots) are way better but they are not as consistent as I'd hope, there are still flyers sometimes but this could just as well be me. So we'll see how it performs next time all cleaned and ready. And maybe I'll talk myself into some trigger work.

 

[Tomiboy]

Get standard velocity ammo not subs.
A little trigger work and a barrel upgrade put my 10/22 sub moa with cci sv.

I got an E R Shaw barrel not much over 100$ at the time, worth every penny.

Thier stock barrels are lacking and triggers both easy dyi projects.

I found better ammo didn't fix much on the stock platform.

Imho

CCI SV is sub-sonic

 

[hankpac]

I put a Shilen heavy barrel on it and a Volquartson trigger housing group. Sweet shooting. Ground Squirrel medicine in Oregon. Replaced the barrel about 10 years ago. Got the trigger group about 2 years ago. I'd like to put a Stainless steel receiver on it, but I can't find the guy who was doing investment casting of those, 50 bucks! Put's em right where I want them up to 100 yards. After than the bullet is what affects accuracy more than anything else. It drops into transsonic around there, and it wobbles the placement a little. Stingers were a little too expensive back when I last loaded up on a few thousand (long ago), so I put more into a few other brands of hollow point, 30 gr gilded, and they shoot adequately. I think I will drop a little money on a better scope, but this red lensed cheapo seems to be holding it's zero just fine for 20 years now. The gun is 25 years old. Bought when bullets where 10 bucks for 500. In Oregon, no sales tax.

 

[hlee]

CCI SV is sub-sonic

But, CCI also has their “quiet” ammo that is more sub-sonicer...

 

[Snuby642]

Some of you bumb shits dont know the difference so just to clarify sv standard velocity is sub sonic.

However some manufacturers sell sub sonic ammo at a premium to dumb shits.

All it has to do is not crack sonic it does not have to plod along at 900fps.

Some dumb shits are running around in search of special sub sonic ammo purchased at a premium and generally sucks balls.

Buy any brand of standard velocity and get better results cheaper.

So yes and no sv is subsonic but not (sub sonic ammo) its a marketing lable for dumb shits.

Run 1050 fps and rock on.

 

[melglass]

Last time out with the Magnum Research barreled 10/22. 5-6 mph wind with complete reversals. Was able to stay up top of it for all but a few shots.

 

[ronnielee54]

Connecticut Precision Chambering (CPC) can do a full tune up on your rifle using existing parts for around $200. That includes barrel, trigger group, and bolt. That is less than the cost of a good barrel.

 

[Billsail]

The best money I ever spent on a 10-22 was for a KIDD barrel.

 

[IrishWind]

I am very happy with my 10/22. Shoots very well for a mass produced plinker.

 

[ScottPriestley]

With rimfire I always start with CCI SV and hope it likes it. Then usually I can tighten it up with Eley or Lapua. I prefer standard velocity which is 1070fps and 40gr pills. Ive had the best results with that combo. Although Aguila did decent with some HV stuff - really just gotta figure out what your barrel likes.

 

[johnnyvw]

First time out today with my new Feddersen bull barrel on an otherwise stock 10/22. After 50 rounds of shooting for fun, I put up a page of 2" bullseyes at 100 yards. Using SK rifle match ammo, all but one of 10 rounds was sub-MOA, average of the 10 was 0.418 MOA. 70% were sub 0.5 MOA. I'm liking this barrel!

 

[Halfnutz]

If you end up having any reliability issues an aftermarket extractor does wonders. Radiusing the back of the bolt and giving the bolt surfaces a good stoning and polishing along with the guide rod made a night and day difference with mine.

 

[ToddM]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I spent 1 and half hours at the range today and tried different ammo and torque setting again (with and without muzzle device) and I found a good setup with RWS Rifle Match. (previosly I only tested with the RWS Match Target) With one exception it also had no problem feeding.

The groups (50m - 5 Shots) are way better but they are not as consistent as I'd hope, there are still flyers sometimes but this could just as well be me. So we'll see how it performs next time all cleaned and ready. And maybe I'll talk myself into some trigger work.

Those groups are really pretty good for a stock rifle at 55yds, you notice overall the groups are strung vertical in nature, so that can be ammo, it can be the bullet being damaged when the action cycles, it can be the shooter of course, and it can be inconsistant ignition. Trying every match ammo you can helps too. I've seen guns that would shoot various match ammo 1" at 50yds and then it finds one it likes and it will be half that.

One thing you can do to check bullet damage is shoot a mag but hand eject every other round carefully and inspect the bullets, sometimes a feed ramp or chamber side can really do a number on random rounds here and there. I'll do that for 2-3 mags to get enough samples to catch random issues.

22's are notorious for not having solid firing pin contact, and it's crucial for rimfires to have solid consistent firing pin hits. Save some of your brass and look at the firing pin hits. Years ago (I haven't seen the insides of a new 10/22 for over a decade) there was a channel in the bolt the firing pin set in, and it could ride up in that channel and change the amount of firing pin hit the rim. Some guys pinned the bolt above the firing pin to keep it from sliding up the channel. The same can be true if the bolt face isn't square.

Also if you are getting single flyers, keep track of which round it is. 10/22's are notorious for "first round flyers" the first hand loaded round shoots to a different location than the rest that are cycled by the action while firing. In fact some guys shoot the first round into the dirt before they start shooting groups. It's my understanding this is usually due to the bolt face not being squared up.

Not that familiar with the archangel stock, but bedding it can be an option, also if the forearm is not super stiff where your rest/bag is on the forearm can impact groups vertically, so when shooting off a rest try to make sure the rest is at the same place on the forearm each time.

 

[Budrichard]

I’ve never ever seen a 22lr do that.
Todays best group, Ruger Custom Shop 10/22, Athlon 27X scope, Eley SemiAuto Benchrest, 50 yds.
5 shot group.
-Richard

 

[chevy_man]

Connecticut Precision Chambering (CPC) can do a full tune up on your rifle using existing parts for around $200. That includes barrel, trigger group, and bolt. That is less than the cost of a good barrel.

Last I checked you could order a green mountain ready to go for $150. It'll out-shoot any factory ruger barrel, mostly because it has a real match chamber.


I think the reason that some of the sporter rifles will actually shoot decent with stingers and mini-mags is simply the sloppy chamber. Those two rounds tend to run a bit long and get closer to jamming the bullet. With a bentz chamber or any decent match chamber you'll be engraving the bullet just chambering it. They tend to be much more consistent jammed than not.

 

[rkcolt45]

try this subsonic HP ammo. That’s what my squirrel rifles prefer.

 

[rkcolt45]

View attachment 7481196
try this subsonic HP ammo. That’s what my squirrel rifles prefer.

 

[rkcolt45]

marlin 39A made in 1960. It likes CCi stingers.

 

[Westcoast308]

I have a more or less off the shelf Ruger 10/22 as a fun rifle. It sits in an Archangel Stock and in my ammo testing settled on the Stinger since it got the best results. (See the 5 shot groups attached -as a comparison 2 10 shot groups with CCI HV HP - groups not shot with the Holosun an Athlon now sits on it)

I also played around with different torque values with the action screw and this is the best result i got.

So basically I am asking if I should be happy with the result or if the regular 10/22 is capable of more than that?

Just send it to Randy at https://www.ct-precision.com/ best $250 I’ve ever spent. No parts replaced just everything tuned up. Mine is a bone stock target model that shoots roughly 1/2” ten shot groups at 50yrds with CCI standard and CCI green tag. His work cut most of my groups down almost 50%. The gun was back to my doorstep in less than 3-weeks. Cheers

 

[MajorD]

While there are countless variables when trying to get a stock factory rifle to shoot well, as mentioned one key factory is ammo. It is EXCEEDINGLY RARE for a rifle to shoot best with high or hyper velocity ammo. It does happen, but again EXCEEDINGLY RARE! Step one is to try a variety of standard velocity match or at least target grade ammo. This usually helps a lot right away.
then with a 10/22 you can go down the rabbit hole - stock barrels bolts trigger groups etc - it is pretty well established in a 10/22 platform, you are going to get immediate best results with a Kidd rifle. You can get the factory base rifle to shoot as well, but it will likely cost you more than just buying a Kidd in the first place.
some people like to tinker, I get that. But if you think tinkering and adding parts a few at a time to improve your ruger 10/22 performance is going to be less costly ( in money, time, aggravation) than just buying a Kidd, you would be wrong

 

[n2ishun]

Just go get one of these...

Ruger 10/22 .920 & Sporter Barrels

Use blue locktite to mate it with the receiver with low torque, but be sure it's seated fully.
After cure bring the torque up to factory spec (I don't recall it w/o looking so I won't give a number).
It's not very hard to do a no parts trigger job or there is a bazillion after market units out there too.
After the above it should hold under 1" at 50 easy depending on what day the barrel was made (as with every barrel maker).
A better stock is always good.

 

[Westcoast308]

Just send it to Randy at https://www.ct-precision.com/ best $250 I’ve ever spent. No parts replaced just everything tuned up. Mine is a bone stock target model that shoots roughly 1/2” ten shot groups at 50yrds with CCI standard and CCI green tag. His work cut most of my groups down almost 50%. The gun was back to my doorstep in less than 3-weeks. Cheers

Update: here is the rifle with Eley target 5-shots 50yrds $6.50 a box. The only two groups with Target I shot and the Eley Force was pretty good too. I’ll try them at 100yrds hopefully soon.

 

[akmike47]

50yd lapua with a 20” GM, first rounds after shooting RWS and it got better as it went. would be nice to not have fliers on $20.00/50 target ammo.

bottom left is .68 with the flier, .28 if I crop it out

it’s in a POS Boyd’s stock and has never seen a torque wrench. Who knows what breaking the torque wrench out would do.

 

[Westcoast308]

50yd lapua with a 20” GM, first rounds after shooting RWS and it got better as it went. would be nice to not have fliers on $20.00/50 target ammo.

bottom left is .68 with the flier, .28 if I crop it out
View attachment 8234228

it’s in a POS Boyd’s stock and has never seen a torque wrench. Who knows what breaking the torque wrench out would do.

Is that with a stock bolt still? I know an upgraded or tuned bolt cuts down on flyers. You could buy a bolt or send it off to Randy for a tuneup he will lap the barrel which helps those green mountain ones. Unless the stock has aluminum pillars, an aluminum bedding block or is a really stout composite material torque is inconsistent with wood anyway. But it’s worth a try, with my Titan I torqued to the recommended setting and left it. With a little more work I bet you could get about the same performance from CCI standard or a cheap Eley.

 

[MajorD]

50yd lapua with a 20” GM, first rounds after shooting RWS and it got better as it went. would be nice to not have fliers on $20.00/50 target ammo.

bottom left is .68 with the flier, .28 if I crop it out
View attachment 8234228

it’s in a POS Boyd’s stock and has never seen a torque wrench. Who knows what breaking the torque wrench out would do.

When switching ammo brands, taking 15-20 rounds to settle down is typical. So unfortunately you are essentially “wasting” the first 20-25 rounds of costly ammo before you can settle down and shoot groups and understand what the rifle ammo combination potentially is.

 

[akmike47]

Is that with a stock bolt still? I know an upgraded or tuned bolt cuts down on flyers. You could buy a bolt or send it off to Randy for a tuneup he will lap the barrel which helps those green mountain ones. Unless the stock has aluminum pillars, an aluminum bedding block or is a really stout composite material torque is inconsistent with wood anyway. But it’s worth a try, with my Titan I torqued to the recommended setting and left it. With a little more work I bet you could get about the same performance from CCI standard or a cheap Eley.

Yes it’s stock, I just polish it up and got rid of the receiver over spray. the stock is just the way it came minus added weight. At 25 it’s shot as low as .09“ 5 shot with cheap bulk ammo(golden bullet/federal) and it’s shot .2-.4 at 50. The bulk opens up group wise as you go farther out for sure.

At 100 I've put out 12ga hulls and repeatedly hit them one for one no issue, shoot groups and it’s inconsistent at times and great others. I’ve only shot a box or two of any real good lapua, mostly shoot repackaged RWS.

I’ve also never cleaned the barrel in thousands of rounds come to think of it

 

[obx22]

I have a more or less off the shelf Ruger 10/22 as a fun rifle. It sits in an Archangel Stock and in my ammo testing settled on the Stinger since it got the best results. (See the 5 shot groups attached -as a comparison 2 10 shot groups with CCI HV HP - groups not shot with the Holosun an Athlon now sits on it)

I also played around with different torque values with the action screw and this is the best result i got.

So basically I am asking if I should be happy with the result or if the regular 10/22 is capable of more than that?

Not my gun or even a Ruger, but definitely a system 10/22. Shot a friend’s factory Bergara BXR, 5rnds at 50. If I had to have a 10/22 style, this would do.

 

[Westcoast308]

Yes it’s stock, I just polish it up and got rid of the receiver over spray. the stock is just the way it came minus added weight. At 25 it’s shot as low as .09“ 5 shot with cheap bulk ammo(golden bullet/federal) and it’s shot .2-.4 at 50. The bulk opens up group wise as you go farther out for sure.

At 100 I've put out 12ga hulls and repeatedly hit them one for one no issue, shoot groups and it’s inconsistent at times and great others. I’ve only shot a box or two of any real good lapua, mostly shoot repackaged RWS.

I’ve also never cleaned the barrel in thousands of rounds come to think of it

That bad boy is begging for a CPC full tune up you have a great barrel getting those groups. The trigger being worked over is worth it alone. So for cleaning being in western Washington I Kroil my barrels when I get home, rust happens fast here being from Phoenix I’ve learned. Then just before I go shooting, I blow the chamber/barrel out with Breakfree powder blast or something similar then it is pretty clean and only takes 5-6 rounds to comeback to zero. I was told by Gary Schneider of Schneider barrels to not leave oil in a bore and get it dry before shooting because it leaves incompressible drops that imprint the bullet and bore. Cheers