Ruger American Barrel

BoltGunner054

Private
Minuteman
Jul 17, 2023
19
13
Pennsylvania
I’m new to long range and interested in getting a new barrel for my Ruger American predator chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. I know it’s only a Ruger American but it’s what I can afford. Does anyone have a barrel manufacturer that they recommend or have had good results with? Upon research there seems to be so many Hart, Bartlein, x caliber, preferred, and quite a few more. Hoping I’ve come to the right place for some help and insight.
 
X-Caliber will build you a custom 416r stainless steel barrel for about $550... I'd personally go 20" length, SAAMI spec chamber, 1-8 twist, 5R rifling, Rem Sendero contour, 5/8-24 muzzle threads (incase you want to run a suppressor or muzzle brake). Any other options are up to you like having it cerakoted, etc...

 
Is there anything wrong with the factory barrel? Sounds like a lot of work and expense for a budget minded project. Sorry to be a bore but I'd spend the money on ammo or optics/chrono/kestrel.
 
Is there anything wrong with the factory barrel? Sounds like a lot of work and expense for a budget minded project. Sorry to be a bore but I'd spend the money on ammo or optics/chrono/kestrel.
Nothing really wrong with it. I just want to try and go a better barrel for a little better accuracy. I reload my own ammo and have roughly 500 rounds as it sits (I’m more of a weekend shooter due to family and work) my optic is a diamondback tactical 5-25 which isn’t top of the line but not bottom either, I have a garmin chrono, but I do not have a kestrel. Kestrel is something I have less knowledge about than barrels and that’s really bad.
 
You don't need a kestrel to shoot more accurately.

I would look at a stock and trigger before making that purchase.
Currently in an oryx chassis. As for trigger and I’ll probably be lit on fire for this but I like the factor trigger. I got a spring off eBay and put it and according to wheeler digital trigger puller I’m getting 1lb 12oz pulls consistently. Plus or minus an oz. I’m used to running cheap junk annd have no experience with expensive stuff. Attached is a photo of my setup. Only difference is I built my own rear bag rider, got knobs for the cheek riser, and I ditched that muzzle brake and got an APA little bastard. My setup isn’t nothing compared to most folks on here but it’s what I can afford. Waited for a lot of it to go on clearance or big sales.
 

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Currently in an oryx chassis. As for trigger and I’ll probably be lit on fire for this but I like the factor trigger. I got a spring off eBay and put it and according to wheeler digital trigger puller I’m getting 1lb 12oz pulls consistently. Plus or minus an oz. I’m used to running cheap junk annd have no experience with expensive stuff. Attached is a photo of my setup. Only difference is I built my own rear bag rider, got knobs for the cheek riser, and I ditched that muzzle brake and got an APA little bastard. My setup isn’t nothing compared to most folks on here but it’s what I can afford. Waited for a lot of it to go on clearance or big sales.
If you put a Timney centerfire trigger in it, and adjusted it all the way down, as light as it goes, you’ll hate the factory trigger, and you can get one under $150…

This is a huge improvement that you don’t even realize you need. It’s not all about the pull weight…Creep, overtravel, break, etc… will all play a part in consistency with your groups.

 
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Nothing really wrong with it. I just want to try and go a better barrel for a little better accuracy. I reload my own ammo and have roughly 500 rounds as it sits (I’m more of a weekend shooter due to family and work) my optic is a diamondback tactical 5-25 which isn’t top of the line but not bottom either, I have a garmin chrono, but I do not have a kestrel. Kestrel is something I have less knowledge about than barrels and that’s really bad.
I'm of the same mind as 762 and ,if I may ,let me tell you about the Ruger American Hunter in 6.5CM that I bought a month ago:

18" heavy barrel, 1:8 twist, Magpul Hunter Stock, straight up factory rifle. The only change I've made to it is replacing the factory trigger return spring with one the reduces the trigger weight to @ 2lbs. I used the same load I've been shooting in my 6.5 CM gas gun this season in PRS (Lapua brass, CCI LRP, 140 ELDM, 40.6 H4350, 2.850 c.o.a.l moving at 2500 fps. Running a suppressor.

The chamber is very rough, but the barrel rifling is overall very smooth with only very minor tooling marks. 100 yard zero, at least .5" MOA over several small groups.

Trued it yesterday using Gravity Ballistics out to 1K. Dead nuts on the marks and compared to my ballistic app profile (Strelok Pro) only +/- .1 difference when it wasn't exactly the same reading. Supersonic out to 1250 yards.

Buy bullets and powder and shoot that thing.

Best wishes
 
OP asks about barrels and barrel changes.

The hide: well the trigger you need is so and so and you have to change the trigger.

Op, the few barrel manufacturers you mentioned are fine. They will all be better than your factory barrel if chambered and installed properly. Find a smith close to you and take your rifle to him.
 
OP asks about barrels and barrel changes.

The hide: well the trigger you need is so and so and you have to change the trigger.

Op, the few barrel manufacturers you mentioned are fine. They will all be better than your factory barrel if chambered and installed properly. Find a smith close to you and take your rifle to him.
Cope harder… 🤡🥴🤡

We answered his questions, and then progressed into helping him with other potential outlets that will affect consistency.
 
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I truly appreciate everyone’s input and opinions and ways of thinking. I’m very inexperienced and lack a lot of knowledge in this game and to have other folks chime in is fine. It gives me more to think about to be honest. If I go the barrel route I believe I’m going to go Hart barrels 26” 1-8 twist. In theory longer, heavier, and built better than factory so one would think accuracy would improve. But maybe it’ll be a ball of trash and not help. My parts bin of experimental and tried parts is non existent as I usually do not modify firearms, this gun is a first. I will look into the trigger and do some research as well. As for taking it to a gunsmith Hart will fit the barrel into the action and true the action as well so that is a bonus. I would have to pay a smith so why not just have the ones the made the barrel do it.
 
I'm of the same mind as 762 and ,if I may ,let me tell you about the Ruger American Hunter in 6.5CM that I bought a month ago:

18" heavy barrel, 1:8 twist, Magpul Hunter Stock, straight up factory rifle. The only change I've made to it is replacing the factory trigger return spring with one the reduces the trigger weight to @ 2lbs. I used the same load I've been shooting in my 6.5 CM gas gun this season in PRS (Lapua brass, CCI LRP, 140 ELDM, 40.6 H4350, 2.850 c.o.a.l moving at 2500 fps. Running a suppressor.

The chamber is very rough, but the barrel rifling is overall very smooth with only very minor tooling marks. 100 yard zero, at least .5" MOA over several small groups.

Trued it yesterday using Gravity Ballistics out to 1K. Dead nuts on the marks and compared to my ballistic app profile (Strelok Pro) only +/- .1 difference when it wasn't exactly the same reading. Supersonic out to 1250 yards.

Buy bullets and powder and shoot that thing.

Best wishes
I appreciate your input. I do have a few questions/input. Ruger American hunter a month ago. Is that the gen 2? Curious because mine is the gen 1. Also an 18” barrel compared to my factory 22” barrel and if I buy it a 26” barrel, my question is and I’m uneducated on the topic but is 18”,22”,26” Barrels with different contours comparable? Also side note funny that your load is very close to mine. H4350 40.5 grains, CCI primers as well, 140 ELD match, and I have the same OAL.
 
I have a Gen 1 Ruger 556/223 that I recently put into the same exact stock as yours, and just this week installed a Patriot Valley Arms barrel. 24" with 223 wylde chamber. After break in, I was pretty happy to shoot a 0.32 MOA group with it, with factory Sierra 77gr Competition ammo. FYI: the stock barrel nut is a royal PIA to break loose...did some heat and penetrating oil the day before I tried removing it, and ended up using a dremel with a thin abrasive cut-off disk to cut partially through it to relieve some of the tension. Since it's smooth on the outside you either need a special tool that clamps onto it or just use a pipe wrench knowing it it won't be reused.
BTW, stock trigger with a M*Carbo spring
 
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If you put a Timney centerfire trigger in it, and adjusted it all the way down, as light as it goes, you’ll hate the factory trigger, and you can get one under $150…

This is a huge improvement that you don’t even realize you need. It’s not all about the pull weight…Creep, overtravel, break, etc… will all play a part in consistency with your groups.

Good trigger. I have them in both my deer rifles. Took a shitty factory trigger to one that is serviceable. Its no TT diamond, but gets the job done.
 
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I appreciate your input. I do have a few questions/input. Ruger American hunter a month ago. Is that the gen 2? Curious because mine is the gen 1. Also an 18” barrel compared to my factory 22” barrel and if I buy it a 26” barrel, my question is and I’m uneducated on the topic but is 18”,22”,26” Barrels with different contours comparable? Also side note funny that your load is very close to mine. H4350 40.5 grains, CCI primers as well, 140 ELD match, and I have the same OAL.
You're welcome.
Yes, it's a Gen 2. It's very interesting that your load is very close to mine. Given that, the velocity drop from my 22" gas gun with the same load is 2620 fps to 2500 fps or @ 30 fps/inch. I'm no expert on barrel contours but my limited experience suggests that you can have the same or similar contour regardless of the lengths you mentioned. As an example, last year I bought a 26" 260 REM barrel for a Savage Short action that I had from McGowen Precision in Montana. Fabulous barrel by the way. Go to their website ( or any major barrel manufacturer of the type you're interested in) and you will see the contours offered and the lengths available. You can get just about anything you want, but I'm still of the opinion that you give your original barrel a full workout before buying a new one.

Hope that helps.
 
Don’t bash on the ruger American. It’s not a bad rifle. This is mine is a 308 on a magpul stock. It’s a good rifle. Shoots good and has a good trigger. Mine has a 5-25 atacr on it. I’ve done the gravity ballistics out to 700 with great results. My advice-save the money or spend it on ammo and go shoot more. I used to have a ruger m77 in 270 that I was easily getting sub moa mostly due to the fact that I shot that thing ALL the time.
 

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You're welcome.
Yes, it's a Gen 2. It's very interesting that your load is very close to mine. Given that, the velocity drop from my 22" gas gun with the same load is 2620 fps to 2500 fps or @ 30 fps/inch. I'm no expert on barrel contours but my limited experience suggests that you can have the same or similar contour regardless of the lengths you mentioned. As an example, last year I bought a 26" 260 REM barrel for a Savage Short action that I had from McGowen Precision in Montana. Fabulous barrel by the way. Go to their website ( or any major barrel manufacturer of the type you're interested in) and you will see the contours offered and the lengths available. You can get just about anything you want, but I'm still of the opinion that you give your original barrel a full workout before buying a new one.

Hope that helps.
Appreciated. I’m still thinking about it.