Sako TRG 22 Optic Rail

lopezm93

Manny
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 3, 2011
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Destin, Fl
I’ve been a member for a while, but never really post. I just recently purchased a Sako TRG 22 in 6.5 Creedmoor and don’t really like how the factory optic rail extends passed the front of the action. Is it possible to move it rearward so it sits flush (there’s room behind it for what I assume is to instal the rear iron sight)? If not, what quality 20MOA aftermarket rail can I buy that will sit flush with the front of the action?
 
I’ve been a member for a while, but never really post. I just recently purchased a Sako TRG 22 in 6.5 Creedmoor and don’t really like how the factory optic rail extends passed the front of the action. Is it possible to move it rearward so it sits flush (there’s room behind it for what I assume is to instal the rear iron sight)? If not, what quality 20MOA aftermarket rail can I buy that will sit flush with the front of the action?
Q1: Put it anywhere you like.
Q2: Get a Spuhr ST-"whatever you want".
 
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Awesome Thank you! I didn’t want to start unscrewing it and trying to move it before knowing 100% that it would line up.
(No intention being rude)

It's a piece of metal with a couple of screws. If it doesn't do what you want it to, put it back to where it was before you started. Or replace it with something else.

You worry about aesthetics and that is nonsensical. What if moving it back messes with the eye relief of your scope. Then you have to lengthen the stock.

All in the eye of the beholder I suppose, but...

Good luck with your new rifle!
 
I’ve been a member for a while, but never really post. I just recently purchased a Sako TRG 22 in 6.5 Creedmoor and don’t really like how the factory optic rail extends passed the front of the action. Is it possible to move it rearward so it sits flush (there’s room behind it for what I assume is to instal the rear iron sight)? If not, what quality 20MOA aftermarket rail can I buy that will sit flush with the front of the action?
IIRC that rail is forward mounted so you can use the TRG backup iron sights on the dovetail.
 
You can’t move the rail backwards. Leave it alone unless you decide to get something different. If you do decide to remove the rail, you will need a propane torch to heat the screws as they are secured with red threadlocker. The base is also bonded to the action with red threadlocker. This base does have three or four pins (recoil lugs) that insert into the receiver so when you remove it, it must be pried upwards.
 
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The factory rail on my TRG has two locating pins and was glued to the action, it took a fair amount of heat from a heat gun to remove it. The first pin in the picture below is aprox. 7.5 mm from the left end of the rail and the second is aprox. 107.5 mm from the left end (so aprox. 100 mm from the center of one pin to the center of the other)

Here’s the rail and the top of the receiver.

B1F87CBF-D0FB-46BD-9725-59769B8C5DC4.jpeg
75AD40FE-220F-4DEF-BC7D-B3540D0F6D6C.jpeg
 
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(No intention being rude)

It's a piece of metal with a couple of screws. If it doesn't do what you want it to, put it back to where it was before you started. Or replace it with something else.

You worry about aesthetics and that is nonsensical. What if moving it back messes with the eye relief of your scope. Then you have to lengthen the stock.

All in the eye of the beholder I suppose, but...

Good luck with your new rifle!
No offense taken what so ever. I appreciate you taking the time to provide input. As mentioned by others above, the Picatinny rail is bonded to the receiver which is why I didn’t want to attempt to remove it before knowing that it would in fact line up. It’s a tedious task from what I’ve read.

The reason I don’t like it hanging over the receiver isn’t for aesthetics it’s because it’s a tight spot for twigs to get caught on while trekking in thicker woods.
 
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The factory rail on my TRG has two locating pins and was glued to the action, it took a fair amount of heat from a heat gun to remove it. The first pin in the picture below is aprox. 7.5 mm from the left end of the rail and the second is aprox. 107.5 mm from the left end (so aprox. 100 mm from the center of one pin to the center of the other)

Here’s the rail and the top of the receiver.

View attachment 7875264View attachment 7875265
Did you replace it with another Picatinny or use the direct dove tail mount? Any idea what aftermarket Picatinny base will sit flush with the front of the action? I’m thinking it might be a better option to go with a Spuhr and forgo the Picatinny all togther.
 
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Not a problem, I figured you had flipped it when I looked on the Near website.
If you’re going to email Richard, use the @telus email address or just give him a call. I found him very responsive on the phone and had several conversations about what I wanted. Highly recommend his products.
 
If you’re going to email Richard, use the @telus email address or just give him a call. I found him very responsive on the phone and had several conversations about what I wanted. Highly recommend his products.
I appreciate the input. I’ll email him the order form and give him a call. I’m definitely interested in the Picatinny base; it has great reviews from what I’m reading.
 
Did you replace it with another Picatinny or use the direct dove tail mount? Any idea what aftermarket Picatinny base will sit flush with the front of the action? I’m thinking it might be a better option to go with a Spuhr and forgo the Picatinny all togther.
I replaced it with a Spuhr ST-3701 7 MIL/24 MOA Mount. (I have a 30mm Scope Tube)
 
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No offense taken what so ever. I appreciate you taking the time to provide input. As mentioned by others above, the Picatinny rail is bonded to the receiver which is why I didn’t want to attempt to remove it before knowing that it would in fact line up. It’s a tedious task from what I’ve read.

The reason I don’t like it hanging over the receiver isn’t for aesthetics it’s because it’s a tight spot for twigs to get caught on while trekking in thicker woods.
Good.

Mine did not come with an attached rail, a bit older (5 yrs) and different markets I suppose.

I bought a Warne picatinny with no cant and depending on what scope I use this comes on or off. For the two scopes I use for this rifle they are both mounted in Spuhr mounts with cant.
 
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I replaced it with a Spuhr ST-3701 7 MIL/24 MOA Mount. (I have a 30mm Scope Tube)
Yeah, I’ve also been considering the Spuhr ST-4701. I have a S&B PMII 3-20x50 that I plan on putting on it. I figure once I spend $180ish on the base and then another $200 on rings, I might as well just buy the Spuhr for $410.
 
Richard at Near is a class act. I have a number of Rem 700 picatinny bases from him that are works of art. I’d probably buy his integrated base/rings if I:

a) didn’t always have a back and forth process in deciding scope height and

b) didn’t like to swap scopes with rings attached to them.

I’m sure he’d custom make whatever you want.
 
You can’t move the rail backwards. Leave it alone unless you decide to get something different. If you do decide to remove the rail, you will need a propane torch to heat the screws as they are secured with red threadlocker. The base is also bonded to the action with red threadlocker. This base does have three or four pins (recoil lugs) that insert into the receiver so when you remove it, it must be pried upwards.
I agree, and can confirm this. I've taken my TRG-22 (2018 model) to my gunsmith, and it was removed. It simply was not drilled for repositioning. That space was reserved for the rear iron sight. You are better off buying that new picatinny rail.

I never pursued it because there was plenty of eye relief for me at that position.
 
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I took the pic rail off easily after resting a clothes iron on high heat on it for 2-3 min. The Spuhr direct mount works great and is easy to swap around if you have other TRGs or Tikka rifles. Spuhr also makes a simpler mount for Sako/Tikka actions that is 4 ounces lighter and about $100 cheaper.
Nice! The clothes iron is a really clever idea. That definitely sounds like the way to do it! The Spuhr mount is the way to go.