Sako TRG disassembly how to

[PotatoeTactical]

Hey All,

I am wanting to strip my TRG out of the chassis to clean it for cerakote and the guy at the shop said he will not touch this rifle unless its taken out.

So, I ran into some issues right out of the gate. Got the forend plastic off no issue, went to take the other bolts to take the receiver out and they are F’ing stuck and i fear stripping the heads, is a heat gun needed for these in the foreend sub assembly? - assuming they used some sort of loktite compound? Or if there is a detailed walkthrough of the full disassembly somewhere out there Id love to view it. Havent found what I needed here so far. Any help would be appreciated

 

[wade2big]

There isn’t any thread locker on the action screws. There is thread locker on the scope base and scope base screws. Now if you bought this thing 2nd hand then who knows what has been done to it.

 

[CerebralDistortion]

1. Remove bolt, mag, scope and all other accessories.

2. Unscrew 2 forend screws about ⅜". Pull forend down and slide off (4 mm hex).

2. Unscrew rearmost 2 screws. One from above and one through behind the trigger guard (4 and 5 mm hex).

3. Unscrew middle and foremost action screws (4 mm hex). Might need heat.

Use good bits, not cheap bent wire. Sako often use nominal torque per screw. All action screws are M6x1.5 and nominal torque for those are 10 Nm.

If you have a electrical screw driver with torque limiter, you could try and use that. Stuck screws respond better to impact force than slowly applied pressure.

 

[TheOE800]

Pages 38 and 39: https://www.berettanewzealand.com/system/storage/download/sako_trg22_42_manual.pdf

If you’ve got the polymer off some heat on the screws to encourage movement won’t hurt, but don’t overdo it for no reason. Moderate to small impact driver or similar is a good suggestion.

 

[PotatoeTactical]

Thank you both! I will give it a go again after work.