So after I brought the Rifle Cabinet home my father in law handed over the rifle buried in his closet. It is a high S/N Savage 99E in .243 . I bought some rounds for it today after I cleaned it last week to see how it cycled. It is still pretty smooth and I really dont think it has been fired all that much. I assume it was my wifes brothers who passed early 80s so I would say its a late 70s purchase. Is it worth putting good glass on it and working it up a little bit.
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Re: Savage 99E
It is what it is. Not known for extreme accuracy. Not much you can do to it except work up a load for it. I would take it to the range and see how it does as it is. It's like asking the same question about a Winchester 94.
It is what it is. Not known for extreme accuracy. Not much you can do to it except work up a load for it. I would take it to the range and see how it does as it is. It's like asking the same question about a Winchester 94.
Re: Savage 99E
Do not hot load this rifle as the bolt locks in the rear and will not take the pressure that a bolt action will.
Good luck
Jerry
Do not hot load this rifle as the bolt locks in the rear and will not take the pressure that a bolt action will.
Good luck
Jerry
Re: Savage 99E
With proper loads any non takedown Savage 99 will shoot MOA groups. They are not as strong a bolt action but among mine is a 22-250 that has yet to blow up. If your 243 is a high condition gun, with the rotary magazine and real checkering, it's worth some bucks. Any factory load is safe in them. The Federal Premium Load with the 85 gr Barnes TSX is a deadly killer on deer sized game and a friend's daughter has killed two Elk with that load (carefully selected broadside shots at under 200 yards). A slim light scope like this would be perfect for your 99.
http://www.leupold.com/hunting-and-shooting/products/scopes/vx-3-riflescopes/vx-3-2-5-8x36mm/
If you want to research THE 99 BOOK by Doug Murray is the standard reference on 99s.
http://www.savage99.com/
99 EG 300 Savage circa 1950, Lyman Alaskan 2.5X, Stith no drill mount, 130 gr Barnes TSXs at 2700 put 5 in 1" or less.( 300s had 1 in 11 twist)
With proper loads any non takedown Savage 99 will shoot MOA groups. They are not as strong a bolt action but among mine is a 22-250 that has yet to blow up. If your 243 is a high condition gun, with the rotary magazine and real checkering, it's worth some bucks. Any factory load is safe in them. The Federal Premium Load with the 85 gr Barnes TSX is a deadly killer on deer sized game and a friend's daughter has killed two Elk with that load (carefully selected broadside shots at under 200 yards). A slim light scope like this would be perfect for your 99.
http://www.leupold.com/hunting-and-shooting/products/scopes/vx-3-riflescopes/vx-3-2-5-8x36mm/
If you want to research THE 99 BOOK by Doug Murray is the standard reference on 99s.
http://www.savage99.com/
99 EG 300 Savage circa 1950, Lyman Alaskan 2.5X, Stith no drill mount, 130 gr Barnes TSXs at 2700 put 5 in 1" or less.( 300s had 1 in 11 twist)
Re: Savage 99E
As Humble stated, don't over scope it. The Savage M99 is a wonderful carrying rifle and putting too much glass ruins the balance and makes it top heavy.
I've got one in 308Win and I took a scope off and mounted a peep sight. I can hit just about anything I please to about 150yds which is fine by me, since I enjoy carrying it. I think of it as a Marlin or Win 30/30 on steroids.
As Humble stated, don't over scope it. The Savage M99 is a wonderful carrying rifle and putting too much glass ruins the balance and makes it top heavy.
I've got one in 308Win and I took a scope off and mounted a peep sight. I can hit just about anything I please to about 150yds which is fine by me, since I enjoy carrying it. I think of it as a Marlin or Win 30/30 on steroids.
Re: Savage 99E
A decent stock maker could recut that impressed checkering, reshape the grip and add a nice gripcap. Ditching the strong but ugly Weaver mounts in favor of Leupold would help "the look" too. Rifle really looks minty.
Put a coat of clear UV blocking spar varnish of the lever to protect the case color from fading and wear. Be interested to hear how it shoots. When you bench shoot it put the front bag under the action and hold the forend just enough to avoid wobble (not a death grip)...makes a real difference.
If you decide to sell it, drop me a PM as I have a southpaw buddy who has "99ites".
A decent stock maker could recut that impressed checkering, reshape the grip and add a nice gripcap. Ditching the strong but ugly Weaver mounts in favor of Leupold would help "the look" too. Rifle really looks minty.
Put a coat of clear UV blocking spar varnish of the lever to protect the case color from fading and wear. Be interested to hear how it shoots. When you bench shoot it put the front bag under the action and hold the forend just enough to avoid wobble (not a death grip)...makes a real difference.
If you decide to sell it, drop me a PM as I have a southpaw buddy who has "99ites".
Re: Savage 99E
Ive been looking for a decent savage 99 since 1995. One of the guys i went black bear hunting with in northern CA had one and i realy liked it,
You don't see many here in Europe, ive seen exactly 2 in 14 years.
Pete
Ive been looking for a decent savage 99 since 1995. One of the guys i went black bear hunting with in northern CA had one and i realy liked it,
You don't see many here in Europe, ive seen exactly 2 in 14 years.
Pete
Re: Savage 99E
Pete, I have no idea how you would get one from here to there.
There is no shortage of really nice ones here in 300 Savage although some of the other calibers and models are tough to find.
Probably your best bet would be to link up with some American in the Diplomatic Corps or military who could bring one over to you.
Just don't let the UN find out!
Pete, I have no idea how you would get one from here to there.
There is no shortage of really nice ones here in 300 Savage although some of the other calibers and models are tough to find.
Probably your best bet would be to link up with some American in the Diplomatic Corps or military who could bring one over to you.
Just don't let the UN find out!
Re: Savage 99E
I have a sav.99 in 250-3000 cal.
When I first shot it the groups were more lkie a pattern, 4-6"
It was very copper fouled. I claened out the copper and now it shoots sub-MOA with hand loads.
I also have a 308 with the st. stock and it is a great "leftie" rifle. Kicks like a mule, but works well on deer up to 250yds.
Coach
I have a sav.99 in 250-3000 cal.
When I first shot it the groups were more lkie a pattern, 4-6"
It was very copper fouled. I claened out the copper and now it shoots sub-MOA with hand loads.
I also have a 308 with the st. stock and it is a great "leftie" rifle. Kicks like a mule, but works well on deer up to 250yds.
Coach
Re: Savage 99E
I grew up with sav. 99s beeing the only hunting rifles in the house. two of them both in 250-3000, one is a take down and the other is like yours. the take down is worn out but the newer one shoots 87 gr. sieras like a dream, under 1 inch at a hundred yards.
I grew up with sav. 99s beeing the only hunting rifles in the house. two of them both in 250-3000, one is a take down and the other is like yours. the take down is worn out but the newer one shoots 87 gr. sieras like a dream, under 1 inch at a hundred yards.
Re: Savage 99E
If your take down is the first 250-3000 (the only 99 ever made with a checkered trigger) it is worth a professional restoration
(as in Turnbull) as they are quite rare and if tightenuped will do 1.5 moa with a tang sight.
If your take down is the first 250-3000 (the only 99 ever made with a checkered trigger) it is worth a professional restoration
(as in Turnbull) as they are quite rare and if tightenuped will do 1.5 moa with a tang sight.
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