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Gunsmithing Savage skim bedding questions

david8989

The Tactical Texan
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 6, 2011
445
116
39
Bowie, TX
I've got a savage 12 LRP which comes in a HS precision stock with and aluminum bedding block. I'm looking to skim bed this rifle and had a few questions. This will be my first bedding job and i've read alot on them just curious about a few things I could run into with my specific application.

1) I know I need to take a little material out of the bedding block but where and how much? I know not to touch the pillars but beyond that I think I need a pic if anyone has one??

2) Also I think I know you only need to bed a savage from the recoil lug to the rear action screw in front of the trigger guard, this is correct right?

3) I think I know the rear tang needs to be free floated, is there anything special I need to do to cause this? Such as take out material around it.

4) Anything else yall think I should know?

As always, thanks for the help.
 
Re: Savage skim bedding questions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: david8989</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got a savage 12 LRP which comes in a HS precision stock with and aluminum bedding block. I'm looking to skim bed this rifle and had a few questions. This will be my first bedding job and i've read alot on them just curious about a few things I could run into with my specific application.

1) I know I need to take a little material out of the bedding block but where and how much? I know not to touch the pillars but beyond that I think I need a pic if anyone has one??

2) Also I think I know you only need to bed a savage from the recoil lug to the rear action screw in front of the trigger guard, this is correct right?

3) I think I know the rear tang needs to be free floated, is there anything special I need to do to cause this? Such as take out material around it.

4) Anything else yall think I should know?

As always, thanks for the help.</div></div>

1) the front/recoil lug area, From the front of the mag well to the front of the recoil lug. I would not remove any of the aluminum. If there is stock material that has paint on it or would only cause a thin (less than 1/16") area of bedding, remove the stock material. put tape on the recoil lug and barrel nut. so that when removed there will only be recoil lug/bedding contact on the front and back of the lug. Can also dremel the clearance after bedding is cured.

2) correct

3) bed the rifle first then see if there is any contact on the rear tang area. should be ok as long as there is minimal contact and not pressure points.

4) release agent is your friend!!
 
Re: Savage skim bedding questions

When I did mine a while back I roughed everything up with a Dremel. You can't really do too much where you are bedding because you are filling it back in (within reason). I used PVC tape to wrap around the barrel and the rear tang to create the correct spacing during the bedding process, then filled her up and let it cure. For a release agent I used Kiwi Clear shoe polish. I used Devcon Steel for the bedding. Worked great. Just make sure you use enough epoxy. I had a couple of small cavities where it left voids.

I followed the info in this article for the most part leaving the rear tang and the barrel channel untouched: http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
 
Re: Savage skim bedding questions

I thought the rear tang also got bedded! What's the benefit of free floating it? In the pics I've seen of some of the pros that do it it looks like the rear tang is bedded...
 
Re: Savage skim bedding questions

The rear action screw on Savages don't thread into the rear tang like a Remington. Make sure it's floated. As far as removing material ... don't do that either. Do yourself a favor and don't mess up a good stock by removing material. The action in my LRP came floated as well as you could as for. If it were me, I'd bed around the recoil lug and the pad around the front action screw only. More than likely, it'll be very little bedding there when it's all said and done.
 
Re: Savage skim bedding questions

I used two layers of painter's tape on the sides and front of the recoil lug. Rear of lug was left bare with only release agent on it. I added release agent to the barrel nut just in case bedding flowed behind the tape; also taped several layers on nut, barrel and top of stock (just beyond where receiver and stock meet). Receiver was 100% stripped and used my kids’ playdough to fill slots. Tip; use the playdough that's all mixed colors so nobody gets upset.
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Make sure to add release to the inside of the receiver where the bolt lugs are. I pushed a big hunk of bedding into my action when installing the front action screw.

Keep an eye on temps. This is not a garage project for this time of year (unless your garage is heated...).